Source: BEAR FIBER, INC. submitted to NRP
US HEMP FIBER PRODUCED FOR DOMESTIC AND EXPORT TEXTILE MARKETS
Sponsoring Institution
National Institute of Food and Agriculture
Project Status
COMPLETE
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
1022806
Grant No.
2020-33610-32055
Cumulative Award Amt.
$99,859.00
Proposal No.
2020-00422
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Project Start Date
Sep 1, 2020
Project End Date
Apr 30, 2021
Grant Year
2020
Program Code
[8.12]- Small and Mid-Size Farms
Recipient Organization
BEAR FIBER, INC.
1314 GRACE ST
WILMINGTON,NC 284013752
Performing Department
(N/A)
Non Technical Summary
In fashion and textiles manufacturing today, there are many opportunities to reduce negative social and environmental impacts including reducing high energy requirements and intensive chemical requirements.Bear Fiber is developing a novel hemp cottonization process and manufacturing platform for fiber production that will provide a scalable natural fiber solution to help reduce synthetic microplastic pollution in the marine environment, reduce the environmental impact of hemp processing, and support the cultivation of an alternative, bio-based rotational fiber crop for small and medium sized farmers, and textile producers. The outcome of the proposed activities will be a hemp fiber cottonization process that is more environmentally friendly, economical, and consistent than current methods; and a cotton-like hemp fiber that can be easily spun with and complement cotton.The technical hurdles currently limiting the market opportunity for hemp fiber for textiles addressed in this proposal are: 1) development of a scalable, consistent and minimal environmental impact treatment (cottonization) to ensure that hemp fiber can be produced economically for spinning mills and apparel brands, thus completing the textile value chain and creating a market for hemp fiber US agricultural producers cultivate, and 2) proof of concept yarn spinning in a standard cotton yarn. The first technical objective will focus on the development of a cottonization method utilizing naturally occurring and/or scalable biological processes to refine hemp fiber quality. The second technical objective will be to provide proof of concept yarn blended with our proprietary hemp fiber, as a result of the novel approach.The outcomes of this project will allow Bear Fiber to develop its own novel hemp fiber cottonization process that can then be scaled, provide a more competitive approach to synthetic and cotton fibers, and allow for capitalization on an emerging regenerative textile market. The broader societal impacts include additional income for farmers and rural communities through the use of a new rotational and carbon sequestering crop, an increase in supply and availability of a regenerative and renewable natural fiber, greater natural resource security, an increase in the use and sales of US textiles for bothdomestic and global markets, and the creation of additional jobs from the production, processing, manufacturing, research, and sales of Bear Fiber's hemp fiber.
Animal Health Component
60%
Research Effort Categories
Basic
5%
Applied
60%
Developmental
35%
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
5111730100070%
8041730200015%
8041730202015%
Goals / Objectives
The overall goal for this project is to develop an innovative, sustainable, efficient, and economical method to degum or "cottonize" hemp fibers and produce domestically cultivated hemp fiber for cotton/hemp yarns used in textiles.Our Technical Objectives are:Technical Objective 1: Develop a novel degumming and cottonizing method to process hemp fibers. We intend to establish the necessary steps to process and standardize hemp samples into short staple fibers that can be consistently spun with cotton, evaluating five specific properties.Technical Objective 2. Spin and test the yarn produced from our fiber's novel approach. We will spin and evaluate the performance of a standard 21 single cotton/hemp blend yarn produced as a result of Technical Objective 1, evaluating: a) fineness, b) irregularity, c) tenacity d) CV of tenacity, e) elongation, and f) uniformity.
Project Methods
Efforts:Sample procurementDegumming solution development and analysisLaboratory testing and analysis of pre and post processed samplesFiber preparationSpinningEvaluation:Characterization of solutionEvaluation of five specific properties of degummed hemp fibersYarn evaluation a) fineness, b) irregularity, c) tenacity d) CV of tenacity, e) elongation, and f) uniformity.Spinnable yarnFiber fall out (waste)

Progress 09/01/20 to 04/30/21

Outputs
Target Audience:The target audience for this project includes small and medium sized farmers in the United States who will benefit from the acceptance of and increase in market demand of industrial hemp grown specifically for high value textile grade fiber, as well as yarn spinners, textile manufacturers, and global brands who will benefit from a more sustainable and consistent natural fiber alternative to man-made fibers. The PI has presented on this research initiative and commercial opportunities for American produced textile grade hemp fiber at the Industrial Hemp Summit in Danville, VA and the Southern Textile Association as well as other online webinars. The PI has met with small and mid-size farmers, local and regional primary processors, spinning mills, textile manufacturers, academic institutions, industry associations, and global apparel brands during this research phase to discuss industrial hemp fiber processing and identifying potential research and production partners, and market opportunities. Changes/Problems:The Covid pandemic greatly affected our research. Many mills, businesses and institutions were hampered by a lack of qualified personnel or were closed for extended periods of time. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Nothing Reported How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?We have been disseminating information learned during the project period to NC, PA, OR, TX and MT farmers and processors, nationwide webinar audiences, research institutions and textile industry professionals and will continue to do so as opportunity arises. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Objective 1: Bear Fiber, Inc. collected and evaluated various natural occurring sources ofligninolytic and pectinolytic biologics and was able to isolate, identify, and characterize naturaloccurring biologics that remove bonding agents that negatively impact hemp fiber processing. Trialswere conducted with targeted strains. The test results support the initial assumption that the total process time can be done in less than 6 days. This led to a subsequent round of trials in thefinal efforts of the project. Environmental processing conditions and dwell time will be furtheranalyzed in Phase II research. Objective 2: Bear Fiber used internal funds to conductfurther advanced spinning trials on a blend of US cotton and US hempfiber, which used Bear Fiber's proprietary cottonizing method, and simultaneous trialswith US Cotton and Chinese hemp fiber. These trials were conducted at two industry yarn spinning research centers in the targeted 21s count yarn and in otheryarn counts usingdifferent spinning technologies. Thishascontributed greatly to our baseline fiber data set. This data will be used to compare yarn produced from the fiber in objective 1. It is clear the value chain of decortication, degumming, cottonization and spinning requires a systems-based approach to effectively remove the contamination from the woody xylem cells (hurd) to achieve a clean, consistent fiber that can be then spun into yarn.

Publications