Recipient Organization
UNIV OF HAWAII
3190 MAILE WAY
HONOLULU,HI 96822
Performing Department
Family & Consumer Sciences
Non Technical Summary
Transgender is the term used to describe a person whose gender identity does not align with their sex-assigned-at-birth and researchers estimate as many as 1.4 million to 9.1 million transgender people live in the United States (Doan, 2016; Flores, Herman, Gates, & Brown, 2016). Research on clothing and transgender communities typically focuses on political attributes and identity (e.g., Beemyn & Rankin, 2011; Factor & Rothblum, 2008; Gagné, Tweksbury, & McGaughey, 1997; Morgan & Stevens, 2009), with little empirical research that examines the physical requirements of clothing--specifically fit--among this population. Fit is defined as "the way a garment conforms to or differs from the body" (Workman & Lentz, 2000, p. 252). In order to adequately design, create, and procure clothing for the transgender consumer, clothing professionals need to understand the specific needs and wants of this population. Due to the incongruence between one's body and one's gender identity, current clothing fit that is designed and manufactured for the general cisgender (the term used to describe a person whose gender identity aligns with their sex-assigned-at-birth) population likely does not satisfy the transgender consumer. Clothing fit (dis)satisfaction stems from sizing categories (Brown, 2013; LaBat & DeLong, 1990; Workman, 1991) and ready-to-wear (RTW) clothing manufacturers use sizing systems in order to accommodate the most people within a specified range of standardized measurements (Workman, 1991). Brands determine their own sizing systems, resulting in similar products from different brands having different sizes which can vary +/- two sizes (Tamburrino, 1992). The body of research that does examine fit and sizing issues relies on (presumably) cisgender populations of women. Some research has shown that transgender people use clothes to disguise body parts that do not align with their gender identity (McGuire et al., 2016), however the literature does not address the changing body as experienced by transgender people who often undergo a series of surgeries and body modifications to obtain their desired physical body. As a result the transgendered person's physique is in different stages of development during different times and clothing options that are made for standard cisgender sizes and body shapes may not provide adequate fit. For example, shirts cut to a feminine frame may be smaller in the shoulders and have shorter arms or smaller necklines per body length or chest width than men's shirts, or pants designed for men have a lower crotch than pants designed for women. Thus, transgender people are at a disadvantage when shopping for clothing. No research has examined the transgender consumer population and its sizing and fit needs relative to clothing. As a result of the changing physiological body this market demographic likely has unique needs. In addition, the current literature addresses transgender clothing from political and identity lenses (Beemyn & Rankin, 2011; Factor & Rothblum, 2008; Gagné, Tweksbury, & McGaughey, 1997; Morgan & Stevens, 2009) but does not elaborate on desired aesthetics. While many people assume that transgender individuals desire to "pass" or look "authentically" male or female, this may not be the case. Conversations with scholars of transgender issues and transgender individuals themselves reveal that gender presentation is varied for transgender individuals with gender categories beyond the dichotomous male or female. Examples include agender, non-binary, gender fluid, and genderqueer. Therefore, current clothing styles that rely on traditional masculine and feminine aesthetic concepts may not adequately serve the transgender population. Specific to Hawai`i, the Islands have long had individuals who identify as transgender or third gender. Due to its geographic location, history of immigration, and multi-cultural climate many diverse people call Hawai`i home. This includes gender categories that do not align with the dominant Western dual gender system. Traditional Hawaiian culture embraced mahu, a person assigned as male at birth but identifies as female. Likewise, Samoa acknowledges the fa`afafine, Tonga the fakeleiti, Tahiti the mahu vahine, and Maori the whakawahine and akava`ine. As a result of immigration, Hawai`i's people have hold diversity of gender identities. It is estimated that there are 8,450 people who identify as transgender in Hawai`i, or .78% of the population; compared to other states, Hawai`i has the highest concentration of transgender people in the United States per capita (Flores et al., 2016). This research will address the gap in knowledge we currently have with regard to serving the transgender community. It will be used to further design methods to adequately create and manufacture clothing for this population. This research will employ Grounded Theory methods and utilize interviews and focus groups to collect data. Data will be analyzed ushing line-by-line analytical techniques to identify themes.
Animal Health Component
(N/A)
Research Effort Categories
Basic
100%
Applied
(N/A)
Developmental
(N/A)
Goals / Objectives
1. Assess the current fit and aesthetic problems with ready-to-wear clothing2. Address how clothing can be designed to accommodate transgender people3. Develop and disseminate educational resources
Project Methods
Grounded Theory (Glaser & Strauss, 1967) is an effective technique to use when the purpose of the research is to gather information about a topic that has been little studied before. A technique of Grounded Theory is to use interviews and focus groups with opened ended questions. We plan to first analyze the existing data to provide a foundation for our work, followed by developing protocol together additional data via interviews and focus groups with transgender individuals. We all have connections within transgender communities which should facilitate recruitment. Data will be analyzed using Grounded Theory techniques of open coding, interpretation, and line-by-line analysis (Strauss & Corbin, 1990). We estimate to include approximately 20 people who identify as transgender to participate in this study. Participants will be recruited via person networks, snowball sampling, flyers posted in places frequented by the LGBTQ+ population (e.g., community centers), and announcements made at LGBTQ+ community meetings. Participants will need to be at least 18 years of age, identify as transgender, and willing to participate in a focus group or interview. ?