GROWING YARNS: AN INNOVATIVE APPROACH TO BACTERIAL CELLULOSE PRODUCTION

• Sponsoring Institution: National Institute of Food and Agriculture
• Project Status: COMPLETE
• Funding Source: HATCH
• Reporting Frequency: Annual
• Accession No.: 1013150
• Project Start Date: Oct 1, 2017
• Project End Date: Sep 30, 2022
• Program Code: [(N/A)]- (N/A)

Recipient Organization
UNIVERSITY OF WYOMING
1000 E UNIVERSITY AVE DEPARTMENT 3434
LARAMIE,WY 82071-2000

Performing Department
Family And Consumer Sciences

Non Technical Summary
Sustainability is an important issue for many industries but in particular for the textile and apparel industry. The textile and apparel industry over uses natural resources and employs chemical pollutants in product manufacturing (Challa, 2016). Bacterial cellulose (BC) is a promising material due to its higher crystallinity, mechanical strength and purity due to being free of lignin, hemicelluloses and other impurities typically found in plant based cellulose fibers, like cotton (Santos et. al., 2015). The absence of these impurities also makes the material more sustainable, as it does not need the intensive processing required for plant cellulose (Ashori, Sheykhnazarib, Tabarsab, Shakeric, Golalipourd, 2012).The current research will investigate the possibility of producing bacterial cellulose yarns, in addition to the weaving and dyeing potential of these yarns. A majority of textiles used in apparel or accessory construction are woven materials, necessitating the use of yarns in their construction. Currently, there is no known published research on the manufacture of woven BC material.In the proposed project, methods for producing yarns for a woven BC material and methods for coloring this subsequent material will be investigated. Based on the results from an ongoing Faculty Grant-In-Aid project, the most promising bacterial nutrient solution, post-growth and drying method will be used as the base for the production of BC yarns. There are a number of potential ways to attempt yarn formation, including spinning yarns from pellicles, using a spiral divider in the fermentation media and using a custom 3D printed growth tube. After the yarns have been developed, woven fabrics will be produced, coloration methods will be evaluated (using both natural and synthetic dyes), consumer interest will be measured.

Animal Health Component

40%

Research Effort Categories

Basic

20%

Applied

40%

Developmental

40%

Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)	Subject of Investigation (SOI)	Field of Science (FOS)	Percent
804	1799	1100	100%

Knowledge Area
804 - Human Environmental Issues Concerning Apparel, Textiles, and Residential and Commercial Structures;

Subject Of Investigation
1799 - Fiber crops, general/other;

Field Of Science
1100 - Bacteriology;

Keywords

bacterial cellulose

cellulosic fiber textiles

Goals / Objectives
Major goal: The current research will investigate the possibility of producing bacterial cellulose yarns, in addition to the weaving and dyeing potential of these yarns.Specific objectives:1. Investigate methods of growing bacterial cellulose yarns for fabric construction.2. Investigate methods of spinning bacterial cellulose yarns.3. Investigate methods of weaving the spun bacterial cellulose yarns.4. Investigate methods of coloring the woven bacterial cellulose materials.5. Measure consumer interest in the new material.

Project Methods
Year 1: Fall of 2017-Spring of 2018: 1. Objective Focus- In this year, objective 1-2 will be investigated. a. Objective 1- Investigate methods of growing bacterial cellulose yarns for fabric construction.The two yarn methods discussed in previous research will be explored. Additionally, a variety of custom growing vessels and yarn production methods will be investigated and used for initial cultivations. If wet spinning is pursued, endowment funds within the department will be used to purchase needed equipment.Once the final yarns are produced, tensile properties will be investigated.The most productive and effective yarn cultivation method will be further developed.Yarns produced in this phase will be evaluated for strength with the appropriate ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) standards. Specifically, strength may be tested with standard ASTM D-2256 - Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand Method. Year 2: Fall of 2018-Spring of 2019: 1. Objective Focus- In this year, objective 2 will be investigated. a. Objective 2- Investigate methods of spinning bacterial cellulose yarns.Single and double ply (strand) yarns will be spun by hand or machine from the yarns grown. The yarn with the most desirable properties for apparel and accessory textile products will be selected to develop into woven fabrics.Yarns produced in this phase will be evaluated for strength with the appropriate ASTM standards. Specifically, strength may be tested with standard ASTM D-2256.Year 3: Fall of 2019-Spring of 2020: 1. Objective Focus- In this year, objective 3 will be investigated. a. Objective 3- Investigate methods of weaving the spun bacterial cellulose yarns.The selected yarn will be woven using a table top loomResulting fabric will undergo textile property testing, such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, moisture regain and water absorbency.Fabrics produced in this phase will be evaluated using the following test methods: ASTM D5035 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation to Textile Fabrics (Strip Method); ASTM D4966 - Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method); ASTM D2261 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine); ASTM 629 - Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles, AATCC Test Method 79 - Absorbency of Bleached Textiles.Year 4: Fall of 2020-Spring of 2021: 1. Objective Focus- In this year, objective 4 will be investigated. a. Objective 4- Investigate methods of coloring the woven bacterial cellulose materials.Formulating dyes from natural local vegetation. Possible local sources of dyes may include, but are not limited to; pine needles, hollyhock, wild berries and birch tree bark.Dyeing fabrics with the natural dyes sourced from local materials varying the type of mordant and when the mordant is applied to determine how to achieve the best dye uptake.Using select commercial dyes applicable to cellulosic materials (direct, reactive, azoic dyes).Test colorfastness to light, washing and crocking of the dyed fabrics with appropriate AATCC methods - AATCC Test Method 61 - Colorfastness of Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated; AATCC Test Method 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method; AATCC Test Method 16 - Colorfastness to Light.Year 5: Fall of 2021-Spring of 2022: 1. Objective Focus- In this year, objective 5 will be investigated. a. Objective 5- Measure consumer perception of the new material.Perceptual testing to gauge consumer interest and acceptance.Hand will be evaluated with standard AATCC-EP5 - Fabric Hand: Subjective Evaluation of

Progress 10/01/19 to 09/30/20

Outputs
Target Audience:In October of 2019, 3 research abstracts derived from this project were presented at the International Textile and Apparel Organization annual conference. One talked about the properties of bacterial cellulose yarns from two different media, one compared these properties to cotton yarn, and one looked at a passive dyeing method. During the bulk of this grant period, research on traditional dyeing methods for bacterial cellulose was conducted. The Advanced textiles students (n=10) participated in the project as part of their course at the University of Wyoming. Abstracts on their learning gains and colorfastness results for the bacterial cellulose were written, submitted and accepted (n=4) to the International Textile and Apparel Association 2020 annual conference. The presentations will occur by the time of the next reporting period. CoVid-19 interrupted the planned material hand evaluation, as it would have to be done in person. Changes/Problems:Two problems were encountered. The first as I mentioned, covid has delayed the ability to conduct the hand evaluation of the material as it needs to be done in person. Additionally, the current methods of constructing bacterial cellulose yarns left material of limited length and excessive width. These are not properties useful for clothing and so, more investigation to address these limitations needs to be done before the third objective of weaving the yarns can be done. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?For the Advanced Textile Science students, their pre- and post-test knowledge gains in both dyeing and colorfastness evaluation significantly improved. They also reported on the IRB approved survey instrument that they unanimously preferred the experiential learning this opportunity provided to lecture based class. Their improvement was so impressive that the project director, Jennifer Harmon, is writing a manuscript for the special teaching focused issue of the Clothing and Textile Research Journal. Additionally, Dr. Harmon is constructing a team and application to support the provision of experiential learning for the Introduction to Textile Science students in the online environment, a novel approach needed in our current environment. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?The Advanced Textile Science students shared their findings with their peers in class from the dyeing experiment. The project director, Jennifer Harmon, will present the student's learning gains from the dyeing and colorfastness evaluation assignment at the 2020 International Textile and Apparel conference. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?For the next reporting period, it is hoped that consumer hand evaluation postponed by covid can be performed.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Obj. 1 Investigate methods of growing bacterial cellulose yarns for fabric construction & Obj. 2 Investigate methods of spinning bacterial cellulose yarns: research presentations outlining the results of these objectives were given. Obj. 4 Investigate methods of coloring the woven bacterial cellulose materials: research addressing this objective was performed. Obj. 5 Measure consumer interest in the new material: research for this objective had to be postponed due to the covid outbreak. The colorfastness research done during this period indicated that bacterial cellulose can be reliable and effectively dyed using methods similar to those used to dye cotton. This is an encouraging result that the project director, Jennifer Harmon, will share with peer textile scientists through the accepted abstracts for the November 2020 International Textile and Apparel Association conference.

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2019 Citation: Harmon, J. (2019). Cotton versus Bacterial Cellulose: A Comparison of Single Ply Yarns. International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2019 Citation: Harmon, J. (2019). Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Standard Versus Cost Efficient Media. International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2019 Citation: Harmon, J. (2019). Harmon, J. (2019). Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Standard Versus Cost Efficient Media. International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada

Progress 10/01/18 to 09/30/19

Outputs
Target Audience:During the beginning of this project, I have had 14 undergraduate research assistants and students that have been involved with the project on some level and learned about the material. Further, as there have been several research abstracts presented at international conferences on the discoveries made so far, the audience is steadily increasing each year. Changes/Problems:Dyeing proceeded with nonwoven material as an adequate amount of woven BC could not be produced with current available human resources. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?I have had the opportunity to train and nurture professional development in my students and present research findings at international conferences. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Results have been disseminated through conference presentations. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?Continue compiling and analyzing colorfastness results from the dyeing trial.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? 1) & 2) - In these objectives, bacterial cellulose (BC) was grown in flat strips where half were dried and half had twist added. Then, the strength of these varieties was tested and compared to both each other and two types of cotton yarn. Results were presented in a research abstract. 3) Nothing yet 4) Nonwoven BC was grown, dried and then dyed with common natural and synthetic dyes in the Spring of 2019. Results from this trial are being compiled. 5) An interiors product was developed and a survey measuring consumer interest was developed.

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2019 Citation: Passive Dyeing Bacterial Cellulose: Results of a Contact and Low Heat Method. Harmon, J., International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2019 Citation: Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Standard Versus Cost Efficient Media. Harmon, J., International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2019 Citation: Cotton versus Bacterial Cellulose: A Comparison of Single Ply Yarns. Harmon, J., International Textile and Apparel Association 2019 conference; Las Vegas Nevada

Progress 10/01/17 to 09/30/18

Outputs
Target Audience:During the first two months of the project, only the undergraduate assistants involved with the research have been reached with the laboratory instruction effort. Currently (November 2018), I am working with two undergraduate students to develop a product and consumer survey with the material. Changes/Problems:No major changes at this point. We were unable to acquire a 3D printer and so have substitiuted that growing method. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Professional development through laboratory instruction has been valuable for the undergraduate students. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?We have not completed testing of the yarns yet. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?We will focus on testing the most recent trial of yarns and explore methods of dyeing the cellulose.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? In the first two months of the project, we have initiated a bid for a 3D printer and started the process of having the fabrication workshop at the University of Wyoming build a custom harvesting device. We will also be investigating one of the ways of harvesting the yarns, growing mats and slicing them into yarns, in the next two months. This initial test will inform our drying methods and yarn thickness in the subsequent stages of the research. By November 2018, we have performed a trial on growing and drying the bacterial cellulose yarns and a followup to the inital trial. Now, we will be testing the strength of the yarns from the second trial.

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2018 Citation: Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength and Improving Performance. Harmon, J. Thibault, N. and Fairbourn, L. International Textile and Apparel Association 2018 conference; Cleveland Ohio