Source: LOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY submitted to
PHYSICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF FINISHED ALLIGATOR MISSISSIPPIENSIS LEATHER
Sponsoring Institution
National Institute of Food and Agriculture
Project Status
TERMINATED
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
1003143
Grant No.
(N/A)
Project No.
LAB94247
Proposal No.
(N/A)
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Program Code
(N/A)
Project Start Date
Jun 2, 2014
Project End Date
May 31, 2018
Grant Year
(N/A)
Project Director
Negulescu, I.
Recipient Organization
LOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY
202 HIMES HALL
BATON ROUGE,LA 70803-0100
Performing Department
School of Nutrition and Food Sciences
Non Technical Summary
A change in knowledge will result by performing the tasks of this project due to the fact that the literature is scarce regarding physical properties of alligator skins: There are no publications on the strength, viscoelastic characteristics and thermal transitions of finishedAlligator mississippiensisleather. Therefore the primary objective of this project is to determine these characteristics and relate the data to the leather end use (apparel, shoes, etc.). Additionally, since chromium may be present in the tanned leather as trivalent Cr3+or hexavalent Cr6+cationic species (Cr6+ is toxic to humans), the proposed work will probe if the leather samples under investigation were chrome tanned (with Cr3+ compounds) and if hexavalent Cr6+ is present both in the tanned samples (which might be in direct contact with the human body, depending on the end use and design) and in the waste waters from Louisiana tanneries. The educational objective of this project is the training of students in obtaining and use of sustainable materials from Louisiana agriculture.
Animal Health Component
0%
Research Effort Categories
Basic
10%
Applied
80%
Developmental
10%
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
5115299202050%
7230210201025%
4025110200025%
Goals / Objectives
The Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries (Department) manages the American alligator (Alligator mississippiensis) as a commercial, renewable natural resource conservatively estimated at over $704,000,000, providing significant, direct economic benefit to Louisiana. Louisiana's wild and farm alligator harvests currently exceed 300,000 animals annually, while the population level remains stable. As shown in the 2012 Annual Report of Alligator Advisory Council, Louisiana leads the country in the production of alligator skins. In recent years the United States tanned less than 10% of all alligator skins produced in Louisiana. Tanneries convert the raw hides into finished alligator leather. Once alligator hides have been tanned, they are used to make all types of products varying in size from earrings to sofas.It is the finished alligator leather produced in Louisiana the present project is focused on. Only alligator skins provided by Louisiana producers, the first beneficiaries of the projected investigations, will be analyzed. Because of this sustainable and substantial availability of alligator skins, diversification and expansion of markets for alligator leather goods is a logical next step. The goal is to find more opportunities for Louisiana's alligator business. Tests will be conducted on alligator skins according to the objectives outlined in the following. Since the testing leather coupons will be practically sampled from the entire skin surface, the data collected might be correlated with the end use of the particular part of the skin, knowing that the preferred alligator skin is its belly. This project aims at a complete characterization of finished American alligator (Alligator mississippiensis, named in the following only asalligator) leather regarding its strength and elasticity. Since the alligator leather samples analyzed several years ago were stored in the PI's conditioning laboratory in standard conditions, re-testing of these leathers after a long term aging will be both of academic and practical interests. Therefore several samples will be re-tested after a time span of 12 years to learn about how aging of alligator leather might affect mechanical characteristics. Data will be compared with that collected for other traditional leathers, such as cowhide and pig. The following objectives will be addressed in the project:1. Investigation of Physical and Mechanical Characteristics:Morphological evaluation of leather structureDetermination of physical characteristicsDetermination of tensile resistance (Stress and strain at break)Determination of tearing forceDetermination of viscoelastic parametersDetermination of thermal transitions 2. Investigation of the chemistry of chromium tanned leather3. Increasing of awareness of Louisiana alligator leather through publications and presentations.
Project Methods
The specific instrumentations of methods presented in the following are available at LSU.Physical Characteristics Measurements. The thickness and the specific weight will be determined according to specific ASTM specifications. Collagen fibril diameter distribution will be investigated by Scanning Electron Microscopy. Prior to SEM measurements the alligator samples will be freeze-dried and sputter-coated with a thin layer of gold.Determination of Tensile Characteristics: Stress and Strain at Break. Tensile samples will be tested in two directions at 90o from each other, like the warp and filling of a fabric. The determinations will be performed according to ASTM Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) with the dimension of tensile samples adapted to the dimensions of available skins. An Instron Model 4301 tensile tester will be used to measure breaking stress, breaking strain, Young's modulus and the energy at break at a crosshead speed and a load cell chosen according to sample resistance.Determination of Tearing Strength of Leather Samples. This test will determine the force required to propagate a single-rip tear starting from a cut in the sample and using a falling-pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) apparatus. The standard method will be applied to leather samples without any modifications, provided the sample does not tear in the direction crosswise to the direction of the force application during the test. It has been found that there was a significant difference in tear and tensile strengths of footwear goat leather produced using trivalent chromium salts, indicating that the percentage of chromium used in tanning influenced the physical strengths of the leather. This finding should be related to tearing of alligator leathers.Investigation of Viscoelastic Behavior of Alligator Leather. Leathers are not elastic bodies; they are viscoelastic materials because there is a phase shift between the force applied (stress) and the deformation (strain) which occurs in response. In dynamic mechanical analysis, DMA, measurements are represented as a complex modulus E* reflecting both the elastic (E') and the viscous (E") behavior of the material. The viscoelastic characteristics, as well as the thermal transitions of leathers (any), depend to a large extent on the presence of the water associated with constituting collagen biopolymer. The bound water plasticizes the leather at sub-freezing temperatures and dictates the viscoelastic properties. The content of water will be monitored by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Viscoelastic characteristics of alligator leather samples will be investigated by DMA in dry nitrogen both in heating and cooling modes from -40oC to 80oC using a train of frequency from 0.1 to 10 Hz.Thermogravimetric Analysis. Drying and thermal degradation of leather samples will be performed under nitrogen using a heating rate of 10oC/min. Modulated thermogravimetric analysis will be conducted in order to determine the activation energy of different processes involved in the thermal events using the program: 1) High resolution sensitivity 1; 2) Modulate +/- 5oC every 200 seconds; and 3) Ramp 2.00oC/min res 4 to 600oC.Investigation of Thermal Transitions in Alligator Leather. Thermal transitions of interest in leather are related to glass-transition (Tg), melting (Tm), crystallization (Tc) and denaturation (Td) temperatures of the collagen molecular chains within the leather matrix. When leather is exposed to temperatures below the Tg, the constituting collagen becomes very rigid and brittle, while at temperatures above Tg, the chain segments start moving and a transition from the glassy state to a rubbery-like state takes place. Tg is influenced by certain factors, such as cross-linking (tanned leather is a crosslinked polymer). The melting of collagen helix and aggregates of helices to gelatin can be considered as the melting of a polymer crystal. Cross-links cause an increase in Tm because they affect the entropy of melting. Thermal analysis of leather is performed by means of thermogravimetry and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyzes and the collection of data should be related to the heating rate (the faster the heating rate, the higher the transition temperature) and the moisture content of samples. Tg, observed with difficulty by DSC technique because no enthalpic (heat) changes are associated to this transition, is clearly evidenced by DMA. Any secondary thermal transition observed as a step change in the DSC baseline will generate a peak for tan d and E" in DMA plots. To the PI's best knowledge there are no DSC and/or DMA investigations on glass-transition, melting, and crystallization of collagen from alligator leather.DSC analysis will be performed at a variable scan rate of 2-10°C/min, under nitrogen, for both heating and cooling runs.Chemistry of Alligator Tanned Skins. Determination of Chromium Species in Tanned Leather Samples and in Wastewaters from Louisiana Tanneries. The chromium salts are used extensively in the leather industry as a tanning agent. A series of ASTM methods cover wet procedures for determination of chromium in tanning liqueurs and wastewater, surface water, and drinking water but not in the tanned leather. The chromium content of the liquors determines the amount to be used to obtain the desired degree of tannage, and hence may be a matter for specification in the purchase of leather. Chromium may be present in the finished leather as trivalent Cr3+or hexavalent Cr6+cationic species. It has been proved that hexavalent chromium Cr6+ is toxic to humans, animals, and aquatic life. It can produce lung tumors when inhaled and readily induces skin sensitization. Therefore Cr6+ is closely monitored by U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. A wet field method has been proposed, but it is cumbersome and refers only to soluble Cr6+ species. However, the X-ray absorption spectroscopy technique which is divided into X-ray Absorption Near Edge Structure (XANES) and Extended X-ray Absorption Fine Structure can readily distinguish between different oxidations states of Chromium. The XANES region is roughly 50 eV within the edge and provides information about the chemical speciation of an element, while the EXAFS can extend 1,000 eV or higher from the edge and provides information about the interatomic spacing of the near neighbors of an atom. XANES is an element-specific technique and allows detection of the structure of elements directly, without any sample preparation or wet chemistry. XANES will probe if the leather samples under investigation were chrome tanned (with trivalent Cr3+ compounds, usually sulfate) or otherwise and if hexavalent Cr6+ is present both in the tanned samples and in the waste waters from Louisiana tanneries.

Progress 06/02/14 to 05/31/18

Outputs
Target Audience:Louisiana producers of alligator skins, particularly the tanning alligator leather industry, are the first beneficiaries of the projected investigations. The interested audience was extended todesigners and merchandisers of fashionable items made totally or partially of alligator leather (viz., attires, boots, belts etc.) for which the knowledge of leather characteristics needs to be related to the end use. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Professional development: increased knowledge of TAM graduate and undergraduate students in the expertise area of assimilation of exotic skins, of Louisiana alligator leather in particular, with textile materials by individual study, research and application in fashion products. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Louisiana alligator industry has been infirmed through the Louisiana Alligator Council via a magazine publication on the alarming content of chromium in alligator skins tanned in Louisiana and/or tanned and imported back from other countries (e.g., Singapore). Two manuscripts on the assimilation of alligator leather as textile products have been prepared for American Leather Chemists Association (to be published in the Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association) and US leather and textile industries (to be published in the Journal of Industrial Textiles). Cooperation with faculty experts on apparel design, as well as on merchandising, from the LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising was promoted in order to enhance the dissemination of results in US fashion industry and abroad (China). What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? In recent years the United States tanned less than 10% of all alligator skins produced in Louisiana. The rest has been tanned in countries of Europe or Asia. Tanneries convert the raw hides into finished alligator leather. Chromium may be present in the finished leather as trivalent Cr3+or hexavalent Cr6+cationic species. It has been proved that hexavalent chromium Cr6+ is toxic to humans, animals, and aquatic life (if discharged waste waters from tanneries contain Chromium). It can produce lung tumors when inhaled and readily induces skin sensitization Therefore Cr6+ is closely monitored by U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Moreover, in 2015 Denmark proposed a ban of Chromium tanned leather on the European Union market, with negative consequences for marketing of Louisiana Alligator leather if tanned with chromium salts. The ban became effective in 2018 through the regulation of European Union (EU) 2018/1513 stating that articles with leather parts, which come into contact with the skin, shall not contain Cr6+ with 1 mg/kg (1 ppm) or more. Therefore, the following major goal outlined in the Project Initiation section was particularly addressed in the project: 2. Investigation of the chemistry of chromium tanned leather Results: Energy Dispersive X-ray analysis (EDAX) of Louisiana alligator leather specimens tanned both in Louisiana tanneries or abroad (Singapore) and brought back to US showed alarming amounts of Cr species present in the samples, proving that the alligator skins have been tanned with chromium salts.

Publications

  • Type: Other Status: Published Year Published: 2018 Citation: Ioan I. Negulescu. (2018) Reducing Carcinogens in Tanned Alligator Skins. Louisiana Agriculture, Fall 2018, page 34.
  • Type: Journal Articles Status: Other Year Published: 2019 Citation: Ioan I. Negulescu. Characterization of Alligator Skins and Comparisons to Traditional Leathers. Journal of American Leather Chemists Association (Manuscript)
  • Type: Journal Articles Status: Other Year Published: 2019 Citation: Ioan I. Negulescu. Textile Properties of Tanned Alligator Leather. Journal of Industrial Textiles. (Manuscript)


Progress 10/01/16 to 09/30/17

Outputs
Target Audience:US producers of alligator skins, particularly from Louisiana, are among the first beneficiaries of the projected investigations. The interested audience may comprisedesigners and merchandisers of fashionable items made totally or partially of alligator leather (viz., attires, boots, belts etc.), both from business and academia, for which the knowledge of alligator leather characteristics needs to be related to the end use. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Professional development: increased knowledge of graduate and undergraduate students at LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising in the expertise area of leather assimilation with textiles. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?The faculty in the LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising, promoted in 2017 the utilization of alligator skins in various garments and products in a series of local, national and international (China) academic presentations and fashion shows. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?A manuscript presenting data collected on physical characterization of finished alligator skins tanned with Chromium salts will be submitted for publication in the Journal of American Leather Chemistry Association. A manuscript promoting the use of alligator skins as a textile material will be submitted to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Journal of Research. Copies of these manuscripts and of the final report of this project will be forwarded to Louisiana Alligator Advisory Council.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Collection of comparative characterization results of alligator skins versus other similar data acquired on cowhide and pig leathers, all tanned with chromium salts: mechanical analysis of breaking load and tearing force.

Publications

  • Type: Journal Articles Status: Other Year Published: 2018 Citation: Negulescu I. et al., Physical Characterization of Finished Mississippiensis Alligator Leather for Textile Applications. Journal of American Leather Chemistry Association, JALCA (2018)
  • Type: Other Status: Other Year Published: 2017 Citation: Ioan Negulescu. Louisiana State University Textiles Apparel and Merchandising TAM 4043 Textile Science Laboratory Manual; Lab # 14 Examination of Exotic Leather & Skins, page 69, Fall 2017.


Progress 10/01/15 to 09/30/16

Outputs
Target Audience:Louisiana producers of alligator skins are the first beneficiaries of the project investigations. The interested audience was extended todesigners and merchandisers of fashionable items made totally or partially of alligator leather (viz., attires, boots, belts etc.), both from business and academia, for which the knowledge of leather characteristics needs to be related to the end use. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Training activities: HUEC 7091 Independent Research in Human Ecology (Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising) graduate course. Professional development: increased knowledge of TAM graduate and undergraduate students in the expertise area of leather assimilation with textile materials by individual study and research How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?The faculty in the LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising promoted in 2016 the utilization of alligator skins in a series of local and national academic presentations and fashion shows. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Data collected on physical characterization of finished alligator skins tanned with Chromium salts will be published. Cooperation with faculty experts on apparel design, as well as on merchandising, from the LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising will continue to be promoted in order to enhance the dissemination of results.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Investigation of the chemistry of chromium tanned leather: Energy Dispersive X-ray analysis (EDAX) of Louisiana alligator leather specimens 10-15 years old and of Louisiana leathers tanned abroad (Singapore) and brought back to US showed similarly alarming amounts of Cr species present in the samples, proving that the alligator skins have been tanned with chromium salts. Mechanical characteristics: Preliminary determinations of viscoelastic properties of alligator leather by Dynamic Mechanical Analysis (DMA) pointed out a collagen transition at ambient temperatures in spite of the protein crosslinking with chromium salts.

Publications

  • Type: Other Status: Other Year Published: 2016 Citation: Louisiana State University Textiles Apparel and Merchandising TAM 4043 Textile Science Laboratory Manual; Lab # 14 Examination of Exotic Leather & Skins, page 69, Fall 2016.


Progress 10/01/14 to 09/30/15

Outputs
Target Audience:Louisiana producers of alligator skins are the first beneficiaries of the projected investigations. The interested audience was extended todesigners and merchandisers of fashionable items made totally or partially of alligator leather (viz., attires, boots, belts etc.) for which the knowledge of leather characteristics needs to be related to the end use. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Training activities: TAM 3091 Reading and Research in Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising course with one-on-one work with Professor I. Negulescu as mentor. Professional development: increased knowledge of TAM graduate and undergraduate students in the expertise area of leather assimilation with textile materials by individual study and research. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Data collected on characterization of finished alligator skins have been disseminated by a poster displayed at LSU in the Department of Textile Science, Apparel Design and Merchandising. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?Data collected on physical characterization of finished alligator skins will be published. The presence of Chromium in finished alligator skins will be reported to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Cooperation with faculty experts on apparel design, as well as on merchandising, from the LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising will be promoted in order to enhance the dissemination of results.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? In recent years the United States tanned less than 10% of all alligator skins produced in Louisiana. The rest have been tanned in countries of Europe or Asia. Tanneries convert the raw hides into finished alligator leather. Chromium may be present in the finished leather as trivalent Cr3+or hexavalent Cr6+cationic species. It has been proved that hexavalent chromium Cr6+ is toxic to humans, animals, and aquatic life (if discharged waste waters from tanneries contain Chromium). It can produce lung tumors when inhaled and readily induces skin sensitization. Therefore Cr6+ is closely monitored by U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Moreover, in 2015 Denmark proposed a ban of Chromium tanned leather on the European Union market, with negative consequences for marketing of Louisiana Alligator leather if tanned with chromium salts. Therefore, the following major goal was outlined in the Project Initiation section to be addressed in the project: 2. Investigation of the chemistry of chromium tanned leather Results: Energy Dispersive X-ray analysis (EDAX) of Louisiana alligator leather specimens tanned both in Louisiana tanneries or abroad (Singapore) and brought back to US showed alarming amounts of Cr species present in the samples, proving that the alligator skins have been tanned with chromium salts.

Publications


    Progress 06/02/14 to 09/30/14

    Outputs
    Target Audience: Louisiana producers of alligator skins are the first beneficiaries of the projected investigations. The interested audience was extended to designers of fashionable items made totally or partially of alligator leather (viz., attires, boots, belts etc.) for which the knowledge of leather characteristics needs to be related to the end use. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Training activities: HUEC 3091 Reading and Research in Human Ecology course with one-on-one work with Professor I. Negulescu as mentor. Professional development: increased knowledge of graduate and undergraduate students in the area of leather assimilation with textile materials by individual study and research. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Data collected on mechanical strength of finished alligator skins have been disseminated in a poster competition for undergraduate research investigators organized at LSU. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Data collected on mechanical strength of finished alligator skins will be published. Cooperation with faculty experts on apparel design and on merchandising from LSU Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising will be initiated in order to enhance the dissemination of results of further investigations of finished alligator skins.

    Impacts
    What was accomplished under these goals? The following investigations of physical and mechanical characteristics of finished alligator skins samples (harvested fromdifferent body parts) have been accomplished: measurements of thickness, determination of tensile resistance (stress and strain at break), anddetermination of tearing force (stress).

    Publications

    • Type: Other Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: Ioan I. Negulescu, Ashley E. Hilliard, Ashley R. Lewis, and Langchao Zhang. Physical Characterization of Finished Mississippiensis Alligator Leather for Textile Applications. 2014 Undergraduate Research Grant Poster Competition. LSU Blake Hall Lobby