Progress 06/16/09 to 06/15/10
Outputs
Progress Report Objectives (from AD-416) Determine and quantify by physical measurements and chemical and biological analyses the properties of cotton fibers that explain variations in processing efficiency and end use quality. Develop and implement rapid instruments and methods for measuring these properties. Approach (from AD-416) Cottons produced under a variety of commercial/experimental conditions will be studied using modern manufacturing procedures. Genetic, agronomic and ginning variables will be correlated with textile processing performance in cooperation with collaborators (40% of effort). Chemical and microbiological properties of cotton will be studied for their effects on processing performance, yarn-fabric quality, worker safety and environment contamination (25%). Measurements of color, leaf, trash and contaminants will be improved for better prediction of processing performance and yarn fabric quality (20%). Reference test methods for strength and other HVI measurements will be developed- implemented (15%). Research will focus on improved predictive relationships between processing performance and yarn fabric quality over and above those obtained by using traditional measures of length, strength, color, fineness and trash by identifying developing rapid measurements of other important fiber properties. These measurements will be adapted for use in classification and marketing. During 2010, scientists at the Cotton Quality Research Station, Clemson have made several significant contributions to the cotton research program. They not only established the consistency of cotton strength measurements between different instruments, but also were able to determine cotton strength quantitatively from Near Infrared (NIR) spectral prediction. Studies conducted on the effect of calcium and magnesium on adverse colors in dyed fabrics led to suggestions for mitigation through removal of these offending metals. Studies with cottons spun on a modern vortex spinning system indicated that fiber data obtained with conventional high volume instrument (HVI) was sufficient to predict yarn quality with a high degree of precision. Research with the CottonScan system indicates that it has the potential to be a direct, reference method for cotton fineness. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy techniques were employed to determine the maturity of cotton with minimal sample preparation and ease of operation. The fact that ARS researchers at Clemson, SC working cooperatively with those from New Orleans, LA have demonstrated that it is possible to relate cotton strength and elongation measured by the high volume classing system to flat bundle measurements made with the Stelometer and also to single fiber strength measurements obtained with the Favimat instrument gives hope to being able to develop an independent reference method for HVI strength measurements. An investigation conducted on the general bacteriostatic (antibacterial) nature of flax denim was determined that the long held assumption that flax is bacteriostatic was not supported by the results and probably does not contribute to its resistance to rotting as much as its physical or chemical composition. Further research on flax nonwovens indicated that unscoured nonwoven felted mats contained substrate components that may support bacterial growth rather than inhibit it. Investigations conducted on the effect of cotton variety and the specific location where the fiber grew on the plant showed a strong correlation with the resulting fiber quality and processability. In closing it should be noted that the current project is a �bridging project� and all pertinent milestones were met and reported under the previous project (6655-41440-003-00D). This bridging project will be replaced by a new project #6655-41440-005-00D. Accomplishments 01 Cotton strength measurement. Cotton strength is one of its most importan quality characteristics and is related to the manufacturing of quality goods for consumers. Currently, two types of instrumentals have been developed to determine cotton strength, however, correlation between the two strength readings was relatively low. Also, rapid and non-destructiv near infrared (NIR) based spectral models have been observed to lack the power for practical prediction of cotton strength. ARS researchers at Clemson, SC, re-characterized the cotton strength presentation with available cotton properties. Such a concept not only allows one to establish the consistency of cotton strength measurement between differe instruments, but also to determine cotton strength quantitatively from N spectral prediction. The outcome provides cotton fiber/textile engineers researchers, farmers, and regulators a new insight in applying both instruments and NIR spectroscopy for rapid and routine determination of cotton fiber strength. 02 Effect of Fabric Preparative Treatment on Subsequent Dyeing. Previous research indicates that removal of calcium and magnesium native to the cotton fiber results in dye uptake differences. ARS researchers at Clems SC have conducted further studies in an attempt to explain the underlyi reasons for this behavior. Results indicate that those fabrics from whic calcium and magnesium were not previously removed undergo chemical reactions that are dependent upon the presence of these metals causing adverse changes in the color of the resultant scoured fabric. These chemical differences may be mitigated by removal of calcium and magnesiu prior to fabric preparation and dyeing, thus leading to a finished fabri with fewer dye defects. 03 Forecasting the quality of vortex-spun yarn. There is a lack of information on how marketing classification data of cotton can predict i performance on modern high-speed vortex spinning systems. Commercial cotton was grown and harvested in three major growing regions of the U.S for 5 years. Raw cotton samples were characterized on both the conventional high volume instruments (HVI�) systems and the specialized Advanced Fiber Information System (AFIS) prior to the fiber being spun into vortex yarn. Multivariate statistical methods were used to relate HVI� and AFIS fiber properties to spun yarn quality. ARS researchers in Clemson, SC determined that HVI� fiber properties perform well for engineering bale selections and predicting yarn quality. The quality of predictions was not found to significantly change with the addition of t AFIS variables. 04 Developing a suitable reference method for measuring cotton fiber finene The measurement of the fineness or linear density (mass per unit lengt of cotton fibers is an important factor in determining the overall quali of cotton. The present system for marketing or classing cotton gives th Micronaire of cotton which in fact gives a combination of fiber fineness and maturity and is not an independent measure of fiber fineness. ARS researchers at Clemson, SC are cooperating with scientists at the Commonwealth Scientific Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO), Queensland, Australia to evaluate and improve the utilization of an instrument called the CottonScan that measures the fineness of cotton. The CottonScan has the potential to be a direct, reference method for fineness since it uses electrooptics to measure the length of a given ma of cotton dispersed in a liquid medium. Results obtained with the CottonScan compare favorably three other instrumental methods. A fast a accurate measure of fiber fineness would greatly assist the spinner in selecting cottons for specific applications. 05 Cotton maturity determination. Cotton fibers are natural products and their end-use qualities depend on their stages of growth or development. Immature (or undeveloped) fibers are prone to entangle during mechanical processing thus leading to unwanted defects in fabric dyeing. Although number of approaches have been developed to determine the cotton maturit including direct, time-consuming microscope-based methods as well as subjective indirect methods that depend on direct methods� reference readings to calibrate instruments for the procedures� accuracy. ARS researchers at Clemson, SC, developed the Fourier transform infrared (FT spectroscopy technique to determine the maturity in a direct way. The procedure requires minimal sample preparation, permits routine analysis, and is easy to operate. 06 Studying the fundamentals of cotton bundle strength measurements. One o the most important commercial properties of the cotton fiber is its strength. Cotton strength, as measured by the high volume classing syst lacks precision and accuracy and is not established by an independent reference method. ARS researchers at Clemson, SC are cooperating with A researchers in New Orleans, LA attempting to relate single fiber strengt measurements obtained with the Favimat instrument with standard flat bundle measurements with the Stelometer versus data from the commercial high volume test instrument. Preliminary indications are that it is possible to relate both the tenacity (breaking force per linear density) and the elongation to break of all three methods to each other. 07 Antibacterial properties of flax denim fabrics. Fabrics can be modified to contain antibacterial properties to protect against microbes that cau foul odors, discoloration, mildew formation, and apparel degradation. Flax has often been described to be a natural fiber already having some these same characteristics and linen is sometimes described as being antibacterial. The promotion of flax as being bacteriostatic or antimicrobial would be enhanced if the quantitative or at least some qualitative measure of its bacteriostatic properties could be presented for comparison. Scant information is found in the literature, so the measurement of the general bacteriostatic nature of flax denim was the initial goal of this study. ARS Researchers at Clemson, SC determined that the long held assumption that flax is bacteriostatic or antibacteri was not supported by the results and probably does not contribute to its resistance to rotting as much as its physical or chemical composition. 08 Properties of scoured flax fiber nonwovens. The Agricultural Research Service of USDA has a priority to develop and expand use of sustainable, environmentally friendly biobased products, such as natural fibers, for variety of textile applications. ARS researchers at Clemson, SC are studying the bacteriostatic (resistance to bacteria) nature of flax in order to comprehend its properties in diverse products and processing environments. Processing and scouring (removing dirt or grease by means of a detergent) may remove bacteriostatic components. Nonwoven flax fibers were evaluated with and without scouring. Lignin is found in fla fibers and fibers that contain lignin are more resistant to fungi and bacteria than cotton fibers that do not contain lignin. No improvements in drying rate were demonstrated with increasing flax contents and with scouring removing loose/soluble components. Results indicate that addition of flax does not impart bacteriostatic/antibacterial properties and unscoured nonwoven felted mats contained substrate components that m support bacterial growth rather than inhibit it. 09 How the position of the cotton boll on the plant affects fiber length. Specialized tests were used to evaluate cotton fiber length distribution obtained by the Advanced Fiber Information System (AFIS) for two cultiva [DPL555 (mid-full maturity) and PM1218 (early maturity)]. The objective was to evaluate differences in the shape of length distribution diagrams between the position of the boll on the cotton plant and the cotton variety. ARS Researchers in Clemson, SC determined that in terms of cott fiber length distributions variability is most likely due to variety followed by the location on the plant. Cotton variety DPL555 has previously demonstrated spinning problems, with these results indicating that this could be attributed to this difference in the distribution of fibers. Fiber distribution analyses support this conclusion especially when comparing results obtained from spinning PM1218 which demonstrates good spinning performance.
Impacts
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Publications
- Foulk, J.A., Meredith Jr, W.R., Mcalister, D., Luke, D. 2010. Fiber and yarn properties improve with new cotton variety. Journal of Cotton Science. 13(3):212-220.
- Foulk, J.A., Fuqua, M., Ulven, C., Alcock, M. 2010. Flax Fiber Quality and Influence on Interfacial Properties of Composites. International Journal of Sustainable Engineering. 3(1):1-8.
- Foulk, J.A., Price, C., Senter, H., Gamble, G.R., Meredith Jr, W.R. 2010. Relationship of Fiber Properties to Vortex Yarn Quality via Partial Least Squares. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics. 4(4): 36-45.
- Gamble, G.R., Foulk, J.A. 2010. EFFECT OF OVERSPRAY TREATMENTS ON THE PROCESSING EFFICIENCY OF A 50/50 FLAX/COTTON BLEND. Textile Research Journal. 80(8):754-759.
- Chun, D.T., Foulk, J.A., Mcalister, D. 2010. ANTIBACTERIAL PROPERTIES AND DRYING EFFECTS OF FLAX DENIM AND ANTIBACTERIAL PROPERTIES OF NONWOVEN FLAX FABRIC. BioResources. 5(1):244-258.
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