Progress 10/01/02 to 09/30/03
Outputs
1. What major problem or issue is being resolved and how are you resolving it? This project addresses the major byproducts--hides and wool--of cattle and sheep, animals raised domestically for their meat. (a: biocatalytic approaches to processing of hides and leather) Leather is a high value coproduct of the meat industry. The U.S. livestock industry is the major source of hides for leather production, but less than half of these hides are processed in this country. The rest are exported to countries with less restrictive environmental policies and the finished leather goods are then imported back to the United States. The development of biochemically based methods for tanning and modifying leather byproducts could strengthen the competitiveness of the US hides and leather industries by encouraging the industry to keep more of the production in this country. The proposed research is encompassed by the ARS mission to develop new knowledge and technology to solve
technical agricultural problems to sustain a viable agricultural economy, to enhance quality of life and economic opportunity for rural citizens and society as a whole, and to maintain a quality environment and natural resource base. (b: wool research) Wool, in the USA, strictly a byproduct, suffers in comparison with its imported counterparts over quality issues and needs new markets. The wool component of this project aims to overcome major property limitations for consumer acceptance, such as skin irritation, tendency to shrink when washed, and processing difficulties for the dyeing of blends of wool with fibers such as cotton. Overcoming these limitations will facilitate the establishment of wool's competitive market share and increase the demand for natural fiber blends of wool as a new market for the domestic clip. Bioprocessing approaches address the property issues of whitening, biopolishing, skin irritation and shrinkage through microbial and enzymatic alterations of the
scalar structure of the wool fiber. Related bioprocessing research aims to impart flame resistance, photoprotection, and increased fiber strength to wool fiber and textiles. Chemical processes address the dyeing of wool blends. All- natural blends of wool and cotton provide wool's advantage of warmth, loft, and resilience with cotton's coolness and comfort in fabrics for interior furnishings and apparel. Simplification of dyeing is the single most important barrier toward the acceptance of the wool/cotton concept by the textile industry. Research is directed toward the chemical modification of cotton so that it behaves chemically like wool in blends of the two fibers, thus allowing single-step dyeing. 2. How serious is the problem? Why does it matter? (a) A better understanding of the tanning process, better chrome uptake and retention during tanning, alternative tanning agents, and management of tannery waste are high priority needs of the tanning industry, as expressed during
annual industry reviews of this and other hides and leather projects. An understanding of the mechanisms of chrome tanning is an important step in the design of processes that use less chromium. Enzyme-catalyzed crosslinks that partially stabilize the protein matrix of the hide will enable the production of high quality leathers using lower levels of tanning agents. A more environmentally friendly process for the production of leather will assure the survival of the tanning industry and the markets for the most valuable coproduct of the meat packing industry--animal hides. (b) Domestic wool cannot compete in the apparel market where fine fiber is required for comfort close to the skin. Wool's lack of dimensional stability, observed as wool shrinkage, can no longer be alleviated in the USA by conventional shrink-proofing. The challenge to overcome the processing problems of wool/cotton blends was initially expressed by the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association, and later
supported by Hercules, Inc., under a Trust Fund Cooperative Agreement. The market for the blends is resurgent from time to time because of the comfort and performance manifest by the blends. Textile mills, nevertheless, are unwilling to employ conventional dyeing methods for the blends because of the inherent difficulties involved at various processing stages. Modification of cotton in the blends by using our approaches would reduce complicated multi-step dyeing to a single-step process. ASI recognizes that the problems of shrinkage and prickle limit wool's market share and that attention should be given to fiber modification to increase the demand for domestic woolen textiles. 3. How does it relate to the National Program(s) and National Program Component(s) to which it has been assigned? The overall objective of the project is to strengthen the competitiveness of the US hides, leather and wool industries through the development of biocatalytic processes for conversion of domestic
hides into leather, domestic wool into textiles, and the coproducts of their manufacture into value-added products. This research contributes directly to National Program #306, "Quality, and Utilization of Agricultural Products," and particularly to its component on New Processes, New Uses, and Value-added Foods and Biobased Products. The research is designed to develop biocatalytic processes for conversion of agricultural commodities into new high-value biomaterials such as low chrome leather. Innovative new processes will be created and existing ones adapted for the manufacture of superior products from agricultural commodities. Application of these innovative technologies will expand the range and value of agricultural products and reduce the cost of their production, making processed goods from the United States more competitive. This program aims to create technology leading to an expanded, diverse range of value-added nonfood products from byproducts of agriculture. The
new materials will fill specific needs such as reducing the bulk of chrome-containing leather waste currently going to landfills or reducing US dependence on imported leather. ARS research will result in new uses of domestic hides and wool; innovative new processes will be created and existing ones adapted for the manufacture of superior leather and textile products from these agricultural commodities with a reduction in production costs that will create new technology leading to an expanded, diverse range of value- added leather and woolen textile products from the targeted commodities. In the performance of this research, an international research exchange between scientists in ARS and academia, both in America and in Europe, has developed that supplements the ARS-developed technology. 4. What were the most significant accomplishments this past year? A. Single Most Significant Accomplishment during FY 2003: Worldwide environmental pressures are encouraging the development of
alternatives to chrome tanning of hides, which has for the past century produced the best leathers. ERRC researchers sought to expand their computerized molecular model of the major protein of hides, collagen, to serve as a tool for predicting the effects of altering that protein in the tanning process. Telopeptides, short nonhelical peptides that occur at each end of a collagen molecule, were successfully incorporated this year into the collagen model. This model is now detailed enough to explore the potential effects of biobased (including enzymatic) tannages, which would have the advantages of a more controlled reaction and less use or generation of potentially toxic chemicals. B. Other Significant Accomplishment(s) if any: Processes to recover protein from solid tannery waste have been developed in predecessor projects, but not commercially adopted, due to the lack of markets for this protein product. This year, ERRC researchers investigated processes to further improve
mechanical properties of enzymatically crosslinked films produced with protein recovered from solid tannery waste. Controlled drying, orientation of films and/or addition of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) gave products with much improved tensile strength and no decrease in biodegradability. The success of this work could lead to production of biobased materials for use in the packaging material market, thus resulting in better utilization and less landfilling of these waste materials. The cuticle, a layer that surrounds the wool fiber on its surface and stiffens the fiber, causes a prickly sensation that consumers find undesirable. Since traditional methods of cuticular alteration use chemicals of environmental concern, ERRC researchers sought benign alternatives. Under a trust fund cooperative agreement between ARS and the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association (58-1935-1-143), ARS scientists formulated an aqueous enzymatic system that achieved simultaneous bleaching, biopolishing
and shrinkage control of wool fabrics. The success of this work will enable producers of domestic woolen textiles to satisfy the desire of the consumer (including the uniformed services) for a more comfortable product produced in an environmentally benign way. C. Significant Accomplishments/Activities that Support Special Target Populations: None. D. Progress Report: This report serves to document research conducted under a trust fund cooperative agreement between ARS and the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association (58-1935-1-143). Additional details of research can be found in the report for the parent project 1935-41440-011-00D, Biocatalytic Methods for the Processing of Hides, Leather, and Wool. The cuticle, a layer that surrounds the wool fiber on its surface and stiffens the fiber, causes a prickly sensation that consumers find undesirable. Since traditional methods of cuticular alteration use chemicals of environmental concern, ERRC researchers sought benign alternatives.
Under a trust fund cooperative agreement between ARS and the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association, ARS scientists formulated an aqueous enzymatic system that achieved simultaneous bleaching, biopolishing and shrinkage control of wool fabrics. The success of this work will enable producers of domestic woolen textiles to satisfy the desire of the consumer (including the uniformed services) for a more comfortable product produced in an environmentally benign way. 5. Describe the major accomplishments over the life of the project, including their predicted or actual impact. (a) Composites from tannery waste: Although hides are the most valuable byproduct of the meat packing industry, the conversion of animal hides into leather results in an almost equal weight of byproducts that are typically disposed of in landfills at considerable expense. Research was needed to provide biobased methods for converting these materials into value-added products. Composite materials containing
leather byproducts, hair, and wool were prepared under predecessor CWU's 1935-41440-006-00D and -009-00D, and the process for "Enzymatic treatment of proteinaceous animal by-product materials to impart cohesion and strength" was developed and now patented (U.S. Patent 6,200,789). Modified gelatin from tannery waste: Enzymatic modification of gelatin and other protein products recovered from leather waste by processes developed in 1935-41440-006-00D resulted in a product with higher gel strength, melting point and viscosity than the starting material. Products resulting from these studies are expected to find use in the leather industry as fillers or finishing agents and in other industries where a heat stable gel is required. This research should result in better utilization and less landfilling of these materials. Processes to recover protein from solid tannery waste have been developed, but not commercially adopted, due to the lack of markets for this protein product. Films
prepared at ERRC from these proteins after crosslinking the proteins with a commercial enzyme preparation were determined to be stronger, less soluble in water and to have improved water absorption and mechanical properties when compared to films of unmodified protein. The products resulting from these studies could potentially be used in the preparation of films for the packaging material market, thus resulting in better utilization and less landfilling of these waste materials. (b) Computerized molecular modeling of main component of hides and leather: Tanning, the process by which animal hides are converted into leather, involves the crosslinking of collagen to stabilize the hide against microbial attack. An understanding of current chemical tanning processes at the molecular level is essential to the design of biobased processes. To visualize the tanning process at the molecular level, a three-dimensional computerized model of bovine skin collagen was developed in predecessor
CWU's 1935-41440-006-00D and -009-00D and optimized in the current CWU for evaluating the effects of chemical and enzymatic modifications of collagen. With this model one can screen potential new tanning reactions. Model tanning system: In conjunction with the computer model, a model tanning system, based on soluble collagen, was developed under predecessor projects to study the effects of individual tanning steps on collagen structure. This model system has now been extended under the current CWU to include the study of the tanning of enzyme-treated hide pieces. This extension provides for the evaluation of potential enzymatic processes as steps in tanning. (c) Union-dyeing of wool/cotton blends: Under the wool component of predecessor CWU 1935-41440-007-00D, the union dyeing of various textile blends with different percentages of wool and cotton was investigated, and a full range of dyes designed specifically for dyeing wool and cotton alone were applied. Various pretreatment
systems for union dyeing were applied to all-cotton, all-wool, and wool/cotton blends. The durable- press (DP) technology developed for cotton textiles was modified for application to wool/cotton blends because it provided chemical bonding of the dye for better colorfastness properties of the union dyed textiles. As an alternative to DP oligomers, more cost-effective pretreatment resins were investigated under the former and current projects for their optimum application and processing conditions to obtain union dyed blends with high color strength and colorfastness. From these results, prescriptions for easy, efficient, and effective union dyeing were established. Concurrently, an image analysis method to provide objective measurement of the extent or quality of union dyeing was developed. Low risk dyeing of wool/cotton blends thus has been facilitated and the objective image analysis method can be used to set the specific conditions for dyeing wool/cotton blends. (d) Consumer
acceptance of domestic wool, generally a byproduct of the meat industry, in garments and upholstery is limited in part because of skin irritation, prickle. Research at ERRC, under a Trust Fund Cooperative Agreement with the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association (separate report, 1935-41440-011-01T), demonstrated that the structure of the wool scales that surround the fiber and contribute to prickle could be altered by an enzyme treatment. The process achieves bleaching, biopolishing, and shrink-proofing of wool fabrics; mill trials are underway. This enzymatic treatment is an alternative to traditional chlorination processes that are being eliminated due to environmental concerns. The new treatment should increase the demand for wool textiles and open a new market for the domestic clip. 6. What do you expect to accomplish, year by year, over the next 3 years? The emphasis in this project is on the development of biocatalytic methods for tanning to reduce the need for chromium
and organic crosslinking reagents in hide products and for the bioprocessing of wool. FY2004 Work will continue on the development of biocatalytic treatments for collagenous proteins (hides, byproducts of tanning) and keratinous proteins (hair, including wool) for the production of new biomaterials. Additional enzymes including tyrosinase will be evaluated for their ability to add functionality for product development or tanning applications. Wool cuticle-modifying enzymes will be evaluated for their possible inclusion into conventional wool-scouring processes. Process modifications will be studied to determine the possibility of applying keratinolytic enzymatic systems to wool without new dosage and without subsequent water exchanges. This project is coded to NP 306 which is currently involved in the OSQR Review Process. 7. What science and/or technologies have been transferred and to whom? When is the science and/or technology likely to become available to the end- user (industry,
farmer, other scientists)? What are the constraints, if known, to the adoption and durability of the technology products? Bioprocessing of Wool: A patent application was filed for an enzymatic shrinkage resistant process that proved successful in a mill trial. The work was conducted under Trust Fund Agreement (58-1935-1-143), with the American Sheep Industry Association (ASI). This process will be important to the uniformed services, which are mandated to use domestic wool, and attractive to the general consumer; this will result in sustaining the American woolen mills, which will fabricate the new products. 8. List your most important publications in the popular press and presentations to organizations and articles written about your work. (NOTE: This does not replace your peer-reviewed publications listed below). Reports on the hides and leather phases of this project were presented to customers at the annual meeting of the Research Liaison Committee of the American Leather
Chemists Association, ERRC, Wyndmoor, PA, April 29-30, 2003 (industry, academic, government representatives of the hides, leather, and tannery supplier industries). Progress reports on collaborative wool research with the American Sheep Industry Association (ASI) were prepared monthly for ASI review and presented in quarterly meetings at ERRC to an ASI representative. Garcia, R. A. "Adding value to animal co-products," presented to Environmental Biotechnology Cooperative Research Centre, University of Queensland, Australia. July 14, 2003. Garcia, R. A. "Adding value to animal co-products," presented to technical workshop of Meat and Livestock Australia, Surfer's Paradise, Australia. July 15, 2003.
Impacts
(N/A)
Publications
- PRENTISS, W.C., SIEGLER, M., BROWN, E.M. CHROME FREE TANNING COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES. JOURNAL OF THE AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION. 2003. v. 98(1). p. 63-69.
- TAYLOR, M.M., LIU, C.-K., LATONA, N.P., MARMER, W.N., BROWN, E.M. MODIFICATION AND UTILIZATION OF BYPRODUCTS FROM THE TANNING INDUSTRY. 10th ANNUAL MEETING OF THE BIOENVIRONMENTAL POLYMER SOCIETY. 2002. Abstract p. 11.
- TAYLOR, M.M., MARMER, W.N., BROWN, E.M. PREPARATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF PRODUCTS FOR POTENTIAL APPLICATION IN LEATHER PROCESSING. AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION. 2003. Paper No. 15.
- BROWN, E.M. CROSSLINKING POTENTIAL OF THE C-TERMINAL TELOPEPTIDES OF BOVINE TYPE I COLLAGEN. AMERICAN LEATHER CHEMISTS ASSOCIATION. 2003. Paper No. 14.
- MARMER, W.N., SOLAIMAN, D.K.Y., FOGLIA, T.A., BROWN, E.M. NON-FOOD UTILIZATION OF ANIMAL COPRODUCTS. 225TH NATIONAL MEETING OF THE AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY. 2003. Paper No. AGFD104.
- CARDAMONE, J.M., DAMERT, W.C., PHILLIPS, J.G., MARMER, W.N. APPLICATION OF DIGITAL IMAGE ANALYSIS FOR FABRIC ASSESSMENT. TEXTILE RESEARCH JOURNAL. 2002. v. 72(10). p. 906-916.
- CHEN, T., EMBREE, H.D., BROWN, E.M., TAYLOR, M.M., PAYNE, G.F. ENZYME CATALYZED GEL FORMATION OF GELATIN AND CHITOSAN. POTENTIAL FOR IN SITU APPLICATIONS. BIOMATERIALS. 2003. v. 24(17). p. 2831-2841.
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Progress 10/01/01 to 09/30/02
Outputs
1. What major problem or issue is being resolved and how are you resolving it? This project addresses the major byproducts--hides and wool--of cattle and sheep, animals raised domestically for their meat. (a: biocatalytic approaches to processing of hides and leather) Leather is a high value coproduct of the meat industry. The U.S. livestock industry is the major source of hides for leather production, but less than half of these hides are processed in this country. The rest are exported to countries with less restrictive environmental policies and the finished leather goods are then imported back to the United States. The development of biochemically based methods for tanning and modifying leather byproducts could strengthen the competitiveness of the US hides and leather industries by encouraging the industry to keep more of the production in this country. The proposed research is encompassed by the ARS mission to develop new knowledge and technology to solve
technical agricultural problems to sustain a viable agricultural economy, to enhance quality of life and economic opportunity for rural citizens and society as a whole, and to maintain a quality environment and natural resource base. (b: wool research) Wool, in the USA, strictly a byproduct, suffers in comparison with its imported counterparts over quality issues and needs new markets. The wool component of this project aims to overcome major property limitations for consumer acceptance, such as skin irritation, tendency to shrink when washed, and processing difficulties for the dyeing of blends of wool with fibers such as cotton. Overcoming these limitations will facilitate the establishment of wool's competitive market share and increase the demand for natural fiber blends of wool as a new market for the domestic clip. Bioprocessing approaches address the property issues of skin irritation and shrinkage through microbial and enzymatic alterations of the scalar structure of the wool
fiber. Related bioprocessing research aims to impart flame resistance, photoprotection, and increased fiber strength to wool fiber and textiles. Chemical processes address the dyeing of wool blends. All-natural blends of wool and cotton provide wool's advantage of warmth, loft, and resilience with cotton's coolness and comfort in fabrics for interior furnishings and apparel. Simplification of dyeing is the single most important barrier toward the acceptance of the wool/cotton concept by the textile industry. Research is directed toward the chemical modification of cotton so that it behaves chemically like wool in blends of the two fibers, thus allowing single-step dyeing. 2. How serious is the problem? Why does it matter? (a) A better understanding of the tanning process, better chrome uptake and retention during tanning, alternative tanning agents, and management of tannery waste are high priority needs of the tanning industry, as expressed during annual industry reviews of this
and other hides and leather projects. An understanding of the mechanisms of chrome tanning is an important step in the design of processes that use less chromium. Enzyme-catalyzed crosslinks that partially stabilize the protein matrix of the hide will enable the production of high quality leathers using lower levels of tanning agents. A more environmentally friendly process for the production of leather will assure the survival of the tanning industry and the markets for the most valuable coproduct of the meat packing industry--animal hides. (b) Domestic wool cannot compete in the apparel market where fine fiber is required for comfort close to the skin. Wool's lack of dimensional stability, observed as wool shrinkage, can no longer be alleviated in the USA by conventional shrink-proofing. The challenge to overcome the processing problems of wool/cotton blends was initially expressed by the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association, and later supported by Hercules, Inc., under a
Trust Fund Cooperative Agreement. The market for the blends is resurgent from time to time because of the comfort and performance manifest by the blends. Textile mills, nevertheless, are unwilling to employ conventional dyeing methods for the blends because of the inherent difficulties involved at various processing stages. Modification of cotton in the blends by using our approaches would reduce complicated multi-step dyeing to a single-step process. ASI recognizes that the problems of shrinkage and prickle limit wool's market share and that attention should be given to fiber modification to increase the demand for domestic woolen textiles. 3. How does it relate to the national Program(s) and National Program Component(s) to which it has been assigned? The overall objective of the project is to strengthen the competitiveness of the US hides, leather and wool industries through the development of biocatalytic processes for conversion of domestic hides into leather, domestic wool
into textiles, and the coproducts of their manufacture into value-added products. This research contributes directly to National Program #306, "Quality, and Utilization of Agricultural Products," and particularly to its component on New Processes, New Uses, and Value-added Biobased Products. The research is designed to develop biocatalytic processes for conversion of agricultural commodities into new high-value biomaterials such as low chrome leather. Innovative new processes will be created and existing ones adapted for the manufacture of superior products from agricultural commodities. Application of these innovative technologies will expand the range and value of agricultural products and reduce the cost of their production, making processed goods from the United States more competitive. This program aims to create technology leading to an expanded, diverse range of value-added nonfood products from byproducts of agriculture. The new materials will fill specific needs such as
reducing the bulk of chrome-containing leather waste currently going to landfills or reducing US dependence on imported leather. ARS research will result in new uses of domestic hides and wool; innovative new processes will be created and existing ones adapted for the manufacture of superior leather and textile products from these agricultural commodities with a reduction in production costs that will create new technology leading to an expanded, diverse range of value- added leather and woolen textile products from the targeted commodities. In the performance of this research, an international research exchange between scientists in ARS and academia, both in America and in Europe, has developed that supplements the ARS-developed technology. CWU researchers collaborate informally on leather research with ERRC's sister leather CWU 1935-41440-011-00D and with ERRC's 1935-31440-002D (molecular modeling). Additional collaboration, on wool research, is with CWU's 6435-41430-002-00D
(wool/cotton blends) and 6435-41420-004-00D (wool cuticle alteration by A. flavus), both at SRRC, and with ERRC's 1935- 31440-002-00D (enzymatic derivatization of protein). 4. What was your most significant accomplishment this past year? A. Single Most Significant Accomplishment during FY 2002 year: Processes to recover protein from solid tannery waste have been developed, but not commercially adopted, due to the lack of markets for this protein product. Films prepared at ERRC from these proteins after crosslinking the proteins with a commercial enzyme preparation were determined to be stronger, less soluble in water and to have improved water absorption and mechanical properties when compared to films of unmodified protein. The products resulting from these studies could potentially be used in the preparation of films for the packaging material market, thus resulting in better utilization and less landfilling of these waste materials. B. Other Significant Accomplishment(s) if any:
Consumer acceptance of domestic wool, strictly a byproduct, in garments and upholstery is limited, in part, because of skin irritation, prickle. Research at ERRC, under a Trust Fund Cooperative Agreement with the American Sheep Industry (ASI) Association (separate report, 1935-41440- 011-01T), and in cooperation with Novozyme North America, demonstrated that the structure of the wool scales that surround the fiber and contribute to prickle could be altered by an enzyme treatment. The enzymatic treatment is an alternative to conventional scale alteration by chlorination and may facilitate the establishment of wool's competitive market share and increase the demand for natural fiber blends of wool as a new market for the domestic clip. C. Significant Accomplishments/Activities that Support Special Target Populations: None. 5. Describe your major accomplishments over the life of the project, including their predicted or actual impact? (a) Composites from tannery waste: Although hides
are the most valuable byproduct of the meat packing industry, the conversion of animal hides into leather results in an almost equal weight of byproducts that are typically disposed of in landfills at considerable expense. Research was needed to provide biobased methods for converting these materials into value-added products. Composite materials containing leather byproducts, hair, and wool were prepared under predecessor CWU's 1935-41440-006-00D and -009-00D, and the process for "Enzymatic treatment of proteinaceous animal by-product materials to impart cohesion and strength" was developed and now patented (U.S. Patent 6,200,789). Modified gelatin from tannery waste: Enzymatic modification of gelatin and other protein products recovered from leather waste by processes developed in 1935-41440-006-00D resulted in a product with higher gel strength, melting point and viscosity than the starting material. Products resulting from these studies are expected to find use in the leather
industry as fillers or finishing agents and in other industries where a heat stable gel is required. This research should result in better utilization and less landfilling of these materials. (b) Computerized molecular modeling of collagen, the main component of hides and leather: Tanning, the process by which animal hides are converted into leather, involves the crosslinking of collagen to stabilize the hide against microbial attack. An understanding of current chemical tanning processes at the molecular level is essential to the design of biobased processes. To visualize the tanning process at the molecular level, a three-dimensional computerized model of bovine skin collagen was developed in predecessor CWU's 1935-41440-006-00D and -009- 00D and optimized in the current CWU for evaluating the effects of chemical and enzymatic modifications of collagen. With this model one can screen potential new tanning reactions. Model tanning system: In conjunction with the computer model, a
model tanning system, based on soluble collagen, was developed under predecessor projects to study the effects of individual tanning steps on collagen structure. This model system has now been extended under the current CWU to include the study of the tanning of enzyme-treated hide pieces. This extension provides for the evaluation of potential enzymatic processes as steps in tanning. (c) Union-dyeing of wool/cotton blends: Under the wool component of predecessor CWU 1935-41440-007-00D, the union dyeing of various textile blends with different percentages of wool and cotton was investigated, and a full range of dyes designed specifically for dyeing wool and cotton alone were applied. Various pretreatment systems for union dyeing were applied to all-cotton, all-wool, and wool/cotton blends. The durable- press (DP) technology developed for cotton textiles was modified for application to wool/cotton blends because it provided chemical bonding of the dye for better colorfastness
properties of the union dyed textiles. As an alternative to DP oligomers, more cost-effective pretreatment resins were investigated under the former and current projects for their optimum application and processing conditions to obtain union dyed blends with high color strength and colorfastness. From these results, prescriptions for easy, efficient, and effective union dyeing were established. Concurrently, an image analysis method to provide objective measurement of the extent or quality of union dyeing was developed. Low risk dyeing of wool/cotton blends thus has been facilitated and the objective image analysis method can be used to set the specific conditions for dyeing wool/cotton blends. 6. What do you expect to accomplish, year by year, over the next 3 years? The emphasis in this project is on the development of biocatalytic methods for tanning to reduce the need for chromium and organic crosslinking reagents in hide products and for the bioprocessing of wool. During FY
2003 the behavior of enzymatically crosslinked collagen in tanning processes will be evaluated. Work will continue on the development of biocatalytic treatments for collagenous proteins (hides, byproducts of tanning) and keratinous proeins (hair, including wool) for the production of new biomaterials. Keratinolytic enzymatic systems will be investigated for modifying the scales on wool. Efficient process application methods for keratinolytic enzymatic systems for wool will be designed and optimized at the bench level. The methods will be evaluated for their possible inclusion into conventional wool-scouring and bleaching ranges. The utility of crosslinking enzymes to functionalize wool (for such properties as flame retardancy and photoprotection) will also be investigated. During FY2004 the information developed above will be used to develop a process for effective enzymatic crosslinking of collagen in a pretanning system. Additional enzymes including tyrosinase will be
evaluated for their ability to add functionality for product development or tanning applications. Wool cuticle-modifying enzymes will be evaluated for their possible inclusion into conventional wool-scouring ranges. Process modifications will be studied to determine the possibility of applying keratinolytic enzymatic systems to wool without new dosage and without subsequent water exchanges. Trial runs at the pilot-scale level will be carried out on wool fibers and fabrics. The most promising results from studies of the enzymatic functionalization of wool will be the object of further study with the aim of eventual commercialization. During FY 2005 methods developed on model systems will be transferred to the hide, a solid substrate. Successful composite work will be transferred to industry. Trial runs of wool-cuticle-modifying processes and enzymatic functionalization will be carried out on wool fibers and fabrics at the pilot-scale level. 7. What technologies have been
transferred and to whom? When is the technology likely to become available to the end user (industry, farmer other scientist)? What are the constraints, if known, to the adoption durability of the technology? Facilitating the union dyeing of wool-cotton blends: Under a TFCA with the Hercules Corporation (1935-41440-007-03T), we collaborated in the application of a series of Kymene resins as a pretreatment to dyeing. When these anionic fabrics were treated with the resin and subsequently dyed, dyebath exhaustion was 100%, yielding fabrics with high color strength, high color yield and good color stability to wet and dry rubbing. Under the current CWU, this research was reported to the American Chemical Society's Cellulose and Renewable Materials Division and will be reported in September 2002 to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) with a manuscript submitted as Proceedings and as a peer-reviewed Journal article submitted to AATCC Review. (NP306)
Supporting the preservation of the Star-Spangled Banner: Under a CRADA with the Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of American History (1935-41440-007-01T), we developed Digital Image Analysis for Fabric Assessment (DIAFA) to provide a nondestructive method to measure yarn and fabric structure, regularity, and structural integrity to assess overall fabric thickness - an indicator of a fabric's condition. The DIAFA system is noninvasive and provides an efficient and facile method for characterizing the structural integrity of fabrics. It can be readily employed to provide information on the relative condition of various areas of a historic fabric to influence decisions regarding care, exhibition, and storage. Under the current CWU, a manuscript entitled, "Application of Digital Image Analysis for Fabric Assessment (DIAFA)" was accepted for publication in the Textile Research Journal. (NP306) Bioprocessing of Wool: Under Trust Fund Cooperative Agreement 1935-41440- 011-01T with
the American Sheep Industry Association (ASI), a visiting scientist is conducting research with ARS scientists into the development of industrially feasible modifications of the surface of wool with enzymatic treatments that will lead to alleviating the problems of skin discomfort and shrinkage. Successful completion of this research will assist the American sheep industry in gaining a competitive share of the wool market by realizing stronger markets in apparel for the domestic clip. (NP306) Silicate research for leather production: As supporters in an International Cooperation with Developing Countries (INCO-DEV) project, CWU scientists are cooperating in a study of the effects of using soluble silicates to replace salt in hide preservation and stabilization. Preliminary results show that shavings from leather resulting from this process are amenable to recovery treatments developed under predecessor CWU 1935-41440-006-00D. Adoption of a silicate-based process would help to reduce
the salt contamination of tannery effluents and so make tannery water re-utilizable for agriculture. 8. List your most important publications and presentations, and articles written about your work (NOTE: this does not replace your review publications which are listed below) Reports on the hides and leather phases of this project were presented to the annual meeting of the Research Liaison Committee of the American Leather Chemists Association, ERRC, Wyndmoor, PA, April 30 and May 1, 2002 (industry, academic, government representatives of the hides, leather, and tannery supplier industries). Reports on the wool phases of this project were made to a representative of the American Sheep Industry Association, ERRC, Wyndmoor, PA, April 19, 2002.
Impacts
(N/A)
Publications
- Taylor, M.M., Cabeza, L.F., Marmer, W.N. Brown, E.M. Enzymatic modification of hydrolysis products from collagen using a microbial transglutaminase. I. Physical Properties. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association. 2001. v. 96(9) p. 319-332.
- Taylor, M.M., Liu, C.K., Latona, N., Marmer, W.N., Brown, E.M. Enzymatic modification of hydrolysis products from collagen using a microbial transglutaminase. II. Preparation of films. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association. 2002. v.97(6) p. 225-234.
- Qi, P.X., Brown, E.M. Molecular modeling of N-terminal telopeptides of bovine type I collagen. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association. 2002. v.97(6) p. 235-242.
- Cardamone, J.M. Proteolytic activity of Aspergillus flavus on wool. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Review. v. 2(5). p. 30-35.
- Cardamone, J.M. Comparative study of proteolytic activity of Aspergillus flavus on wool. Proceedings of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists International Conference and Exhibition. 2001. p. 319-325.
- Brown, E.M. Use of molecular modeling in understanding protein structure and function. Middle Atlantic Regional Meeting-American Chemical Society. 2002. Abstract p.85.
- Brown, E.M., Taylor, M.M. Essential chrome? American Leather Chemists Association. 2002. Abstract p.18.
- Prentiss, W.C., Siegler, M., Brown, E.M. Chrome Free Tanning Compositions and Processes. American Leather Chemists Association. 2002. Abstract p.29.
- Kolomaznik, K., Shelly, D., Taylor, M.M. Closed loop for chromium in tannery operations. American Leather Chemists Association. 2002. Abstract p. 26.
- Taylor, M.M., Liu, C.K., Latona, N.P., Marmer, W.N., Brown, E.M. Properties of films made from enzymatically crosslinked gelatins. American Chemical Society Division of Biochemical Technology. 2002. Abstract p. 287.
- Cardamone, J.M. Comparative study of proteolytic activity of Aspergillus flavus on wool. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. 2001. Abstract v. 1(8). p. 39.
- Cardamone, J.M., Stuhrke, D., Riehle, R.J. Effects of polyamide- epichlorohydrin resin on wool/cotton blends. American Chemical Society Division of Cellulose, Paper and Textiles. 2002. Abstract p. 22.
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