MEMORIALIZING IDENTITY CHANGE OF ETHNIC IMMIGRANTS TO HAWAII VIA DRESS

• Sponsoring Institution: National Institute of Food and Agriculture
• Project Status: COMPLETE
• Funding Source: HATCH
• Reporting Frequency: Annual
• Accession No.: 0231115
• Project Start Date: Oct 1, 2012
• Project End Date: Sep 30, 2017
• Program Code: [(N/A)]- (N/A)

Recipient Organization
UNIV OF HAWAII
3190 MAILE WAY
HONOLULU,HI 96822

Performing Department
Family & Consumer Sciences

Non Technical Summary
The multi-cultural and multi-ethnic environment of the state of Hawai`i has produced unique contributions to fashion by melding the apparel items Hawaiian natives with those of Asian, American, Pacific, and European immigrants to Hawai`i. Some literature has explored this topic (e.g., Bradley, in press; Arthur, in press, Arthur, 2010a, Arthur 2010b) and reveals a change from indigenous forms of dress and related identity to assimilated ready-to-wear apparel items corresponding with assimilated identities. Yet, the majority of ethnic culture in the dress of the people of Hawai`i has been neglected. Only the Japanese immigrant group has received any substantial research on their dress and adaptations made as a result of immigrating to Hawai`i (Barbara Kawakami Collection; Kawakami, 1995; Kawakami, 2010). This leaves a bounty of history and cultural adaption unaccounted. Immigrants from China, Korea, India, Vietnam, the Philippines, Samoa, Tonga, India, Mexico, Greece, and Portugal are just a few of the ethnic groups whose unique, ethnic dress aesthetics have been adapted upon living in Hawai`i. This integrated research and extension project will fill this gap by documenting the dress of various immigrant groups and how their dress changed after immigration. Grounded Theory will be employed for this project. Grounded Theory, or immersing oneself in the data to develop a theoretical construct, is appropriate for this project because of the limited research conducted the dress of immigrants to Hawai`i. Data will be coded and categorized followed by the development of a theory. Dress is a market of identity and changes in dress represent changes in identity (Kaiser 1995). A study of the dress of Hawai`is immigrants will likely reveal changes of identity. It is posited that as immigrants came to the Hawaiian Islands their traditional dress adapted to climate changes, changes in role (e.g., head of household, worker, parent, student), and changes in national identity (e.g., "American"). Prior research on dress noted that many of these changes results assimilation. However, no known research on this population has examined syncretism, or the combination of oppositional forces, which can be reflected in dress. For example, the dress of a community may have included aesthetic signifiers of traditional and conflicting, new beliefs about the individual, society, and culture, such as a change in gender roles between the traditional and the new environment. An analysis of the dress of immigrant communities can yield insight into how syncretism was resolved to establish a new personal, social, or cultural identity. In addition, as these new forms were adopted by immigrant communities, they were also manufactured and sold in commercial venues, which further changed meaning and social positioning of ethnic communities. This research is important to undertake because it will give voice to underrepresented cultures and ethnicities. It is also important because findings will contribute to a unique local style of clothing identity, which is critical to the maintenance and expansion of the Hawaiian fashion industry.

Animal Health Component

(N/A)

Research Effort Categories

Basic

100%

Applied

(N/A)

Developmental

(N/A)

Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)	Subject of Investigation (SOI)	Field of Science (FOS)	Percent
803	5110	3080	100%

Knowledge Area
803 - Sociological and Technological Change Affecting Individuals, Families, and Communities;

Subject Of Investigation
5110 - Clothing/apparel;

Field Of Science
3080 - Sociology;

Keywords

immigrants

ethnicity

dress

clothing

documentary

Goals / Objectives
1. Document changes in apparel and dress as a reflection of identity, syncretism, and adaption 2. Disseminate findings to local communities 3. Disseminate findings to academic communities

Project Methods
Year 1 Hire student assistant Develop and implement protocol for recruiting participants to interview Conduct interviews Develop documentaries Year 2 Continue to conduct interviews and develop documentaries Conduct research in the UH Historic Costume Museum (for evidence of identity, syncretism, and adaption in clothing) Conduct artifact preservation (digitize, catalogue, and assess artifacts) Develop and install first exhibits (at museum and virtual) based on preliminary findings Develop and present public lecture and present academic presentation Develop and present academic paper Offer tours of the UH Costume Museum Year 3 Continue to conduct interviews and develop documentaries Conduct research in the UH Historic Costume Museum (for evidence of identity, syncretism, and adaption in clothing) Conduct artifact preservation (digitize, catalogue, and assess artifacts) Develop and install exhibits (at museum and virtual) based on findings Develop and present public lecture Develop and present academic presentation Develop and present academic paper tour of the UH Costume Museum Year 4 Continue to conduct interviews and develop documentaries Conduct research in the UH Historic Costume Museum (for evidence of identity, syncretism, and adaption in clothing) Conduct artifact preservation (digitize, catalogue, and assess artifacts) Develop and install exhibits (at museum and online) based on findings Develop and present public lecture Develop and present academic presentation Develop and present academic paper Offer tours of the UH Costume Museum Year 5 Conduct research in the UH Historic Costume Museum (for evidence of identity, syncretism, and adaption in clothing) Conduct artifact preservation (digitize, catalogue, and assess artifacts) Develop and install exhibits (at museum and online) based on findings Develop and present public lecture Develop and present academic presentation Develop and present academic paper Apply for further funding Offer tours of the UH Costume Museum

Progress 10/01/12 to 09/30/17

Outputs
Target Audience:This project is aimed to preserve Hawaii cultural and costumes to serve residents of Hawaii and national and international academic and science communities. Changes/Problems:UHM Costume Collection will continue with the digital accession forms to ensure all items are recorded. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?One graduate student work in the UHM costume collection to analyze costume collections. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Ideas and opinions were shared and exchanged with over two thousand professional and scholars. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? This project research findings were presented in the International Textile & Apparel Association Annual Meeting (2017); Costume Society of America (2015); Costume Colloquium, Florence, IT;and 2016 East-West International Conference, Manila, Philippine (Jan15-16, 2016). The results were shared to conference attendants and professional experts.

Publications

• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lin, S.H. and Durate, C.J. 2017. Uncovering the Messages Behind Four Imperial Dragon Robes from Exhibitions with Yin and Yang Message. Journalism and Mass Communication, 7(1), 53-62. doi: 10.17265/2160-6579/2017.01.006
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lin, S.H. and Sun, X. 2016. Female Consumer Preference for Scented Textile Products. Journal of the Hwa Gang, 23(7), 438-448.

Progress 10/01/15 to 09/30/16

Outputs
Target Audience:These research findings were shared with more than 200 participants from30 countries at the 2016 East West International Conference, Manila, Philippines (January 15-16, 2016). Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?The research creative project was working with colleague providing a chance to explore new creative method. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?The impact of Chinese Imperial costume study results are raised awareness of the UHM costume collection Chinese Imperial costume and Japanese Kimono collection and presented the results of study of current fashion trends. It will increase understanding of the Chinese Imperial costume design theory and Japanese Kimono. There werefour oral presentations and one creative design at two international conferences, one museum, and international university. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?Explore new design theory from costume history and clothing production stories.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? The purpose of this project is toexplore the design process usingtraditional costume design and a one-piece pattern design to create an elegant draped dress with bias seams. Aesthetically, this project is a medley of various factors (bias seams, lack of side seams, and one piece pattern), brought together through two theories: the Grecian design principle of draping and Madeleine Vionnet's bias cut (Tortora & Marcketti, 2015; Rissanen, 2010).

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lin, S. 2016. Motifs in clothing design: Comparison of Chinese and Japanese. 2016 EWC/EWCA East West International Conference proceedings, Manila, Philippines. P.14
• Type: Other Status: Accepted Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lin, S. 2016. Fashion styles in Runway influence by Chinese culture and dragon robes. Invited Lecturer, Oral Presentation; Ateneo De Manila University.

Progress 10/01/14 to 09/30/15

Outputs
Target Audience:The current fashion influence by Chinese cultures appeared in the fashion world, drawing much attention. This project raised awareness of the UHM costume collection and compared Chinese and Japanese garments with the UHM costume collection. It will increase understanding of the Chinese and Japanese garments developing in the past, today, and future. Changes/Problems:This project is adjusted to the fashion designs that influenced by costume design in the UHM costume collection. What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Two students were inspired by Chinese and Japanese cultures and created two original designs and presented to Costume Society of America's Annual Meetings and Symposium, San Antonio, TX. King, L. (2015). "Sa". Costume Society of America's Annual Meetings and Symposium, San Antonio, TX. Hosomi, A. (2015). "Legacy". Costume Society of America's Annual Meetings and Symposium, San Antonio, TX. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?These research findings were shared with more than 300 participants from 24 countries at 2015 EWC/EWCA International Conference in Okinawa,September 18-24, 2015. A color code in Qing imperial costume was presented to Costume Colloquium, Florence, IT; November 20-23, 2014. Also, an oralpresentation and poster presentation were presented to Costume Society of America (CSA),May 2015. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?Results of this project are to (1) explore the in-depth design theory of Chinese costume in UHM costume collection (2) conduct case studies to explore the clothing design of Japanese Kimono, and (3) identify the special features and uniqueness of the clothing design ofculture themes.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? The impact of Chinese imperial costume study results are raising awareness of the UHM costume collection Chinese imperial costume and Japanese Kimono collection and presented the results of study of current fashion trends. It will increase understanding of the Chinese imperial costume design theory and Japanese Kimono. There werefour oral presentations and one creative design at two international conferences, one museum, and international university.

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2015 Citation: Lin, S. May 2015. Exploring Design Theory in Chinese Dragon Robes. Costume Society of Americas Annual Meetings and Symposium, 24, San Antonio, TX.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2015 Citation: King, L. and Lin, S. May 2015. Street Fashion Styles in Honolulu and Beijing Influenced by Chinese Culture. Costume Society of Americas Annual Meetings and Symposium, 8, San Antonio, TX.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: Lin, S. 2014. Analysis of Okinawan Garment in UHM Costume Collection. East-West center, Okinawa, Japan. September 18-20, 2014.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: Lin, S. and Ordo�ez, M. 2014. Color code in Qing imperial costume. Costume Colloquium, Florence, IT. November 20-23, 2014.

Progress 10/01/13 to 09/30/14

Outputs
Target Audience: Residents in Hawaii and focusing on Okinawa and Chinese clothing. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Fifteen undergraduate students were trained to prepared costume exhibition. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? The impact of these results are raised awareness of the UHM costume collection and compared Okinawa' garment with UHM costume collection. It will increase understanding of the Okinawa garment developing in the past, today, and future. These research findings were shared with more than 300 participants from 28 countries at 2014 EWC/EWCA International Conference in Okinawa, September 17-19, 2014. Chinese imperial costume study results are raised awareness of the UHM costume collection Chinese imperial costume collection and presented the results of study of Qing imperial costume. It will increase understanding of the Chinese imperial costume design theory. These research findings were shared with more than 350 participants from 23 countries at 2014 Costume Colloquium in Florence IT, November 20-23, 2014. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Results of this project are to (1) explore the in-depth design theory of costume in UHM costume collection (2) conduct case studies to explore the clothing design of different ethnic groups, and (3) identify the special features and uniqueness of the clothing design of different ethnic groups.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Document Okinawa's garment and Chinese imperial costume form UHM costume collection to reflect early 1920s' outfits Share information to UHM costume museum visitors and display in UHM Costume museum weeks. Present to attendances of East/West Center conference

Publications

• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: Lin, S. (2014). Analysis of Okinawan Garment in UHM Costume Collection. East-West center 2014 EWC/EWCA International Conference in Okinawa, Japan. September 17-19, 2014. Lin, S. & Ordo�ez, M. (2014). Color code in Qing imperial costume. Costume Colloquium, Florence, IT. November 20-23, 2015.

Progress 10/01/12 to 09/30/13

Outputs
Target Audience: The target audience for this period of reporting were students, public citizens/community members, and academics. Efforts to reach these audiences included the development of two exhibitions which were imbedded into a university course at the University of Hawai`i. The exhibitions were guided by the instructor (Dr. Andy Reilly) but were developed and installed by students enrolled in APDM 460: Costume Collections Management. “Passport to Fashion” was held in Miller Hall on the University of Hawai`i, Manoa campus and “Hawai`i’s Dress” was heald at the Waikiki Marriott in conjunction with the 2012 meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Nothing Reported How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Via exhibitons (see above) What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Incorporate outreach activites to create youth-developed documentaries that focus on clothing changes and identity.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? 1 Document changes in apparel and dress as a reflection of identity, syncretism, and adaption This goal was met via two exhibitions which were imbedded into a university course on costume museum management and maintenance. “Passport to Fashion” examined the changes and adaptations of the dress of immigrants to Hawai`i as a reflection of identity and geographic change. Immigrant populations presented included: Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Indian, Korean, Samoan, and African. “Hawai’i Dress” examined how the dress of Hawaiians changed due to the arrival/colonization of foreigners. Examples included the Hawaiian shirt, holoku, mu`umu`u, and holomu`u. 2. Disseminate findings to local communities These exhibitions were available to public and academic communities. “Passport to Fashion” was held in Miller Hall on the University of Hawai`i, Manoa campus, October 15-22, 2012. 3. Disseminate findings to academic communities “Hawai`i Dress” was held November 14-17, 2012 at the Marriott Waikiki during the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, a conference of scholars and educators in the field of clothing and textiles.

Publications