Progress 10/15/07 to 09/30/12
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Data were collected, analyzed and written for professional and student audiences. The findings were disseminated as presentations at academic conferences, publications in academic journals, publications in conference proceedings, publications in books, visual publications in museum galleries, and lectures to students in classes at the University of Hawaii at Manoa. Presentations: Morgado, M.A. & Reilly, A. 2012. Funny Kine Clothes: The Hawaiian Shirt as Popular Culture. Oceania Popular Culture Assoc. Conference, Chaminade University, Honolulu, HI. Morgado, M.A. & Reilly, A. 2012. Funny Kine Clothes: The Hawaiian Shirt as Popular Culture. Presentation made to University of Hawaii Manoa class HON 291: Perspectives of Men's Clothing Reilly, A. 2010. Hawai'i Fashion Retailers: The Gatekeepers of Fashion. Exhibition at the annual Retail Merchants of Hawai`i meeting, Honolulu, HI. Reilly, A., Morgado, M., & Boynton-Arthur, L. 2010. Exploring biological sex and gender identity through ambiguous dress: Examination of the Hawaiian Shirt. Hawaii International Conference on Art and Humanities. Honolulu, HI Morgado, M. A., & Reilly, A. 2009. The influence of collectibles literature on Hawaiian Shirt Aesthetics, Markets & Myths. Popular Culture Association and American Culture Association, San Francisco, CA. Morgado, M., & Reilly, A. 2008. Hawaiian textile prints: A comparison of visitor preferences with assumptions regarding tourist aesthetics. Textile Society of America, Honolulu. D'Angleo, C., & Reilly, A. 2008. Threads of Hawai`i: Exhibition at the University of Manoa Historic Costume Museum Gallery. Morgado, M., & Reilly, A. 2008. Hawaiian textile prints: A comparison of visitor preferences with assumptions regarding tourist aesthetics. Presentation made to University of Hawaii Manoa class APDM 111: Design Aesthetics. PARTICIPANTS: Marcia Morgado was co-PI during the initiation of the project. She retired in 2010 and removed herself as co-PI but continued to work on publications and outputs. Andrew Reilly was co-PI during the initiation of the project until Morgado's retirement. Thereafter he served as PI. Linda Arthur-Bradley from Washington State University was a collaborator who assisted with one presentation and publication. Carol D'Angelo (curator, University of Hawaii Historic Costume Museum) collaborated on an exhibition. TARGET AUDIENCES: Target audiences were academic professionals interested in underlying mechanics of taste and visual communication among matters of dress of tourists; retail professionals serving the tourist population; community members interested in the history of Hawai's unique dress forms; and students enrolled in classes at the University of Hawaii Manoa learning about aesthetics, promotion, and product development. Target audiences were reached via presentations at conferences; publications in journals, conference proceedings, and books; installation of museum exhibitions; and curriculum development for classroom instruction. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.
Impacts
Findings contributed to the development of theoretical issues of taste and consumption of products preferred by tourists. Three themes of the use of Hawaiian shirts, as revealed through popular culture products, were identified. These findings are significant to the way tourists and tourist-products are perceived by the public and can extend to how retailers and manufacturers who tater to the tourist population (incorrectly) perceive their clientele. Additionally, findings also revealed how an item originally made for the tourist market can be transferred into a revered icon of the residential market.
Publications
- Morgado, M., and Reilly, A. 2012. Funny kine clothes: The Hawaiian shirt as popular culture, Paideusis, Volume 6,2012, D1-D24.
- Morgado, M., and Reilly, A. 2013. Funny kine clothes: The Hawaiian shirt as popular culture, The Meanings of Dress 3rd Ed, New York City: Fairchild Books, (Page 100-113).
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Progress 10/01/10 to 09/30/11
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Activities: Data were collected, analyzed and written into an academic paper. The data and paper were also disseminated as lectures to students in classes at the University of Hawaii at Manoa (APDM 201: Fashion Promotions; HON291: Perspectives of Men's Fashion). Products: A paper accepted for publication in Paideusis Journal to be published in late 2011. The paper has also been approved for a reprint in a college textbook (to be published in Fall 2012). PARTICIPANTS: Andrew Reilly was the PI for the project. Marcia Morgado was a co-PI and co-author on the paper produced. She retired from the university in December 1010. In September 2011 Youngjin Bahng was added as co-PI. TARGET AUDIENCES: The target audiences for this project are (1) current retailers, manufacturers, and designers of Hawaiian shirts; (2) students enrolled in fashion-related courses at the University of Hawaii and who seek careers in retailing, manufacturing, or designing; and (3) academics who study the Hawaiian shirt or tourist products. Efforts included modification of curriculum to report on findings of the project to students and the authorship of a paper that will be published in an academic journal and republished in a college textbook. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Marcia Morgado retired in 2010 (and ceased to be a co-PI on this project)and Youngjin Bahng was added as a co-PI in September 2011.
Impacts
Findings contributed to the development of theoretical issues of taste and consumption of products preferred by tourists. Three themes of the use of Hawaiian shirts, as revealed though popular culture products, were identified. These findings are significant in the way tourists and tourist-products are perceived by the public and can extend to how retailers and manufacturers who cater to the tourist population (incorrectly) perceive their clientele. Additionally, findings also revealed how an item originally made for the tourist market can be transferred into a revered icon of the residential market.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 10/01/09 to 09/30/10
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Outputs for the period include a presentation at an academic conference (Hawai`i International Conference on Arts and Humanities, January 2010). The research discussed biological sex and gender-identity differences with regard to aesthetic preferences for aloha shirts. Particpants included the PIs for this project, Andrew Reilly and Marcia Morgado (University of Hawai`i). The audience included attendees of the conference. PARTICIPANTS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. TARGET AUDIENCES: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: The response rate was 10%, which while considered good for survey research does not provide a robust data set to make significant conclusions. Efforts are underway to increase the data set (follow-up letters, phone calls) as well as setting up interviews with manufacturers. In addition, Marcia Morgado, co-PI, has retired.
Impacts
Funds from this grant were used to hire a research assistant to help mail survey questionnaires to local manufacturers (n=99) using the Dillman method. Ten were returned.
Publications
- Reilly, A., Morgado, M., & Boynton-Arthur, L. (2010). Exploring biological sex and gender identity through ambiguous dress: Examination of the Hawaiian Shirt. Paper published in 2010 Proceedings of Hawaii International Conference on Art and Humanities. Honolulu, HI: HICAH.
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Progress 10/01/08 to 09/30/09
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Outputs for the period included a faculty research symposium at the University of Hawai`i, Mānoa in November 2008. The research discussed included analysis of data regarding assumptions made of tourists' aesthetic preferences for aloha shirts. Participants included the PIs for this project, Andrew Reilly and Marcia Morgado (University of Hawai`i). The audience included faculty from the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences and Administration from the College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. PARTICIPANTS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. TARGET AUDIENCES: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.
Impacts
Funds from this grant were used to hire a research assistant to research and compile a list of textile manufacturers located in Hawai`i. The researchers developed a survey questionnaire to mail to the manufacturers (n=99) during summer 2009. Ten respondents agreed to follow-up interviews (currently in progress). Interviews will assess promotions, finance, manufacturing, and exporting knowledge, strategies and barriers.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 10/01/07 to 09/30/08
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Outputs for the period include three presentations at professional conferences. Presentations were made at the Hawaii International Conference on Arts and Humanities (Honolulu) in January, 2008; at a national meeting of the Popular Culture Association (San Francisco) in March, 2008; and at The Textile Society of America biennial meeting (Honolulu) in September, 2008. PARTICIPANTS: The primary investigators were Andrew Reilly and Marcia A. Morgado. Andrew Reilly is an assistant professor in the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences, University of Hawai`i, Mānoa. Marcia A. Morgado is an associate professor in the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences, University of Hawai`i, Mānoa. Approximately 40 students enrolled in an introductory Apparel Product Design and Merchandising course participated as research assistants. TARGET AUDIENCES: The target audiences are academics who study tourist culture, and leisure and apparel businesses whose customers include residents of, and visitors to, Hawai`i. Businesses can use this information to design, manufacture, and merchandise apparel and related products with aesthetic features likely to be better received by tourists and visitors. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.
Impacts
Funds from the grant were used to develop the research instrument. The instrument included posters with examples of Hawaiian fabric prints in a variety of color variations. The researchers' pilot tested the instrument at a conference of visiting academics and made adjustments to language of the accompanying paper and pencil instrument and handling of the posters. The researchers then trained student assistants, enrolled in two introductory Apparel Product Design and Merchandising classes, on data collection techniques and ethics. Students collected data from tourists and residents over the course of one semester. The findings from this study have contributed to knowledge about consumer aesthetic preferences for fabric designs typically found on Hawaiian shirts. Results from the study demonstrate differences between tourist and Hawai`i residents for motif, color, and reverse/fashion side of fabric. Residents and tourists were similarly split in their preference for three motifs shown (kapa, hula, and tiki); residents preferred the hibiscus, floral, and flag motifs more than tourists; and tourist preferred the fish motif more than residents. Residents were also more likely than tourists to prefer neutral colors and to prefer shirts made with the reverse side of fabric facing out. Additionally, tourists from the West coast USA were more likely to prefer a shirt made with the reverse side of fabric facing out than were tourists from the East coast USA. Frequency of visits made by tourists had no impact on preference for motif, color, or fabric side.
Publications
- Reilly, A., & Morgado, M. (2008). The Tourist as Sartorial Clod: Examination of an Archetype. Conference Proceedings 2008: Hawaii International Conference on Arts and Humanities, Honolulu, Hawaii. Honolulu, HI: HICAH.
- Morgado, M., & Reilly, A. (2008). Hawaiian Textile Prints: A Comparison of Visitor Preferences With Assumptions Regarding Tourist Aesthetics. Proceedings 2008: Textile Society of America. Honolulu: Textile Society of America.
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