Source: CORNELL UNIVERSITY submitted to NRP
GLOBAL APPAREL AND TEXTILE INDUSTRIES: TECHNOLOGIES, NETWORKS, AND SOCIAL RESPONSIBLE PRACTICES
Sponsoring Institution
State Agricultural Experiment Station
Project Status
COMPLETE
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
0203833
Grant No.
(N/A)
Cumulative Award Amt.
(N/A)
Proposal No.
(N/A)
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Project Start Date
Jul 1, 2004
Project End Date
Sep 30, 2009
Grant Year
(N/A)
Program Code
[(N/A)]- (N/A)
Recipient Organization
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
(N/A)
ITHACA,NY 14853
Performing Department
FIBER SCIENCE & APPAREL DESIGN
Non Technical Summary
The apparel and textile industry offers a special example of industry globalization that affects the economic, social, and cultural enviornments of both developing and developed countries. The purpose of this research is to study the evolution of the apparel and textile industries in international locations that offer special insight into technology, design, and significant issues, such as social responsible practices.
Animal Health Component
100%
Research Effort Categories
Basic
(N/A)
Applied
100%
Developmental
(N/A)
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
6065199301025%
6065199302025%
6065199308025%
6065199310025%
Goals / Objectives
The apparel and textile industries have been instrumental in developing economies throughout the world over centuries. The development and evolution of culturally rich craft production approaches as well as the adoption of advancing technologies in these industries provide a rich background for studying the impacts of the industries on the people and economies of the world. International trade policies, particularly the phase out of the Multi-Fiber Arrangement and those encouraging the rise of regional trading blocks, are currently changing the international environments of these industries. The production of textiles, apparel, and footwear has evolved to international sourcing and trade on a scale unmatched by any other consumer product. As manufacturers have extended their supply chains, a range of issues are emerging about the responsibilities businesses have for the well-being of people and the environments in the producing countries. These need to be evaluated in the context of the cultural, social and business networks of individual countries and industries, including the apparel and textile industry. This project has three objectives: 1. To identify countries, regions and businesses with characteristics of special interest to the study of the evolving global apparel and textile industries. 2. To evaluate the technologies and business networks which promote development and sustainability of the apparel and textile industries in certain countries and regions. 3. To analyze specific businesses, regions, and strategies that promote social responsible business practices, including fair labor practices and environmental stewardship.
Project Methods
An on-going literature review will help the researchers identify the businesses, countries, and regions of interest as well as to track the emerging patterns and issues affecting the apparel and textile industries. In country visits will be conducted by sub-groups of the research team (including Cornell, Kansas State, and Colorado State researchers )to interview business principals, government personnel, and non-governmental organization members who are involved in the apparel and textile industries. Tentative plans include visits to Turkey, Hong Kong, Europe, and Thailand, as well as a number of domestic businesses and non-governmental organizations. Interviews will be conducted to develop case studies of businesses and regions that are signficant or exemplar for their approach to sustainable economic development and promotion of social responsible business practices within the apparel and textile industry. The case studies will be used to develop research papers and teaching and outreach materials describing and analyzing the global apparel and textile industries.

Progress 07/01/04 to 09/30/09

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Ten one-credit courses on social responsible apparel production and sourcing were developed and offered on-line for Cornell University, University of Delaware, and Colorado State University graduate and advanced undergraduate students during the last four semesters of the grant. Total enrollment in the courses was over 100 graduate students, about 40 from Cornell University.Evaluations of the all courses were conducted with students. The evaluation results are being used to revise current course materials. The textbook, Socially Responsible Apparel Production and Sourcing by Dickson, Loker and Eckman, based in part on research completed through the grant was published by Fairchild Publications in January 2009. Three teaching resource and strategy papers were submitted and accepted for publication in 2009 at http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html.A total of eight case studies were developed and used in the courses offered by Loker and Jirousek, including: Jirousek, C. (2008). Women's work in Turkey. Jirousek, C. (2008). Thailand's shifting global market. Jirousek, C. (2008). Doing the right thing. Skold, P.and Loker, S. (2007). ECO CIRCLE - Polyester recycling [Patagonia and Teijin]. Skold, P. and Loker, S. (2006). Chaco, Inc., A footwear company. Skold, P. and Loker, S. (2006). TS Designs. Lewis, T., Dombek-Keith, K. and Loker, S. (2008), Maggie's Organics. Loker, S. (2008) Alabama Chanin. Charlotte Jirousek presented a paper at the Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium in September 2008, entitled Rediscovering Camlet: Traditional mohair cloth weaving in Southeastern Turkey and the full paper was published in the Conference Proceedings. Jirousek completed the manuscript for a book entitled More Than Oriental Splendor: Exchanges in Fashion, Design and Culture in the Mediterranean World During the Ottoman Era and is seeking a publisher. PARTICIPANTS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. TARGET AUDIENCES: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.

Impacts
In-country research on the global nature of the apparel and textile industries and the issue of social responsibility and collaborations with apparel industry professionals were analyzed and applied to identify specific examples of best practices, effects on local and regional economies, and reflection of industrial advancements in indigenous cultures. The research, courses, and publications inform current and future apparel industry professionals about the importance of social responsible business practices and potential implementation methods. Its results are integrated into web-based course offerings, reported in professional forums and journals for academic study, and made available to entrepreneurs and large firms in international business through the resulting book, http://eclips.cornell.edu, and other online teaching resources.

Publications


    Progress 10/01/07 to 09/30/08

    Outputs
    OUTPUTS: Eight one-credit courses on social responsible apparel production and sourcing were offered on-line for Cornell University, University of Delaware, and Colorado State University graduate and advanced undergraduate students during 2008. This completed the first offerings of the total 10 courses, and one was offered a second time. Total enrollment in the courses was over 100 graduate students, about 40 from Cornell University. External evaluations of the all courses were conducted with students. The evaluation results are being used to revise current course materials. Revisions and the final draft of a textbook, Socially Responsible Apparel Production and Sourcing by Dickson, Loker and Eckman, were completed and submitted to Fairchild Publications for its publication in January 2009. Three teaching resource and strategy papers were submitted and accepted for publication in 2009 at http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html. A total of eight case studies were developed and used in the courses offered by Loker and Jirousek, including: Jirousek, C. (2008). Women's work in Turkey. Jirousek, C. (2008). Thailand's shifting global market. Jirousek, C. (2008). Doing the right thing. Skold, P.and Loker, S. (2007). ECO CIRCLE - Polyester recycling [Patagonia and Teijin]. Skold, P. and Loker, S. (2006). Chaco, Inc., A footwear company. Skold, P. and Loker, S. (2006). TS Designs. Lewis, T., Dombek-Keith, K. and Loker, S. (2008), Maggie's Organics. Loker, S. (2008) Alabama Chanin. Charlotte Jirousek presented a paper at the Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium in September 2008, entitled Rediscovering Camlet: Traditional mohair cloth weaving in Southeastern Turkey. The full paper is being published in the Conference Proceedings. Jirousek has completed the manuscript for a book entitled More Than Oriental Splendor: Exchanges in Fashion, Design and Culture in the Mediterranean World During the Ottoman Era and is seeking a publisher. PARTICIPANTS: Cornell University collaborated with the University of Delaware and Colorado State University to offer these courses to graduate students from all three universities and to industry professionals through their continuing education offices. Principal contacts were Dr. Marsha Dickson at Delaware and Dr. Molly Eckman at Colorado State. The project offered researchers in-country research opportunities in apparel and textile producing developing countries and professional development training in development and delivery of online courses. TARGET AUDIENCES: Graduate and advanced undergraduates were recruited for these courses on social responsibility in the global apparel industry as the future professionals who will be positioned to transform the industry. A number of industry professionals involved in social responsibility initiatives also were enrolled, providing first-hand knowledge of some problems and best practices that were shared through online discussion boards. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.

    Impacts
    In-country research on the global nature of the apparel and textile industries and the issue of social responsibility and collaborations with apparel industry professionals were analyzed and applied to identify specific examples of best practices, effects on local and regional economies, and reflection of industrial advancements in indigenous cultures. The research, courses, and publications inform current and future apparel industry professionals about the importance of social responsible business practices and potential implementation methods. Its results are integrated into web-based course offerings, reported in professional forums and journals for academic study, and made available to entrepreneurs and large firms in international business through the resulting book, http://eclips.cornell.edu, and other online teaching resources.

    Publications

    • Dickson, M.A., Loker, S. and Eckman, M. 2009. Social Responsibility in the Global Apparel Industry. New York: Fairchild.
    • Dickson, M.A., Loker, S. and Eckman, M. 2009. Collaborating across universities and industry to offer educational opportunities for social responsibility. In Educating for a Socially Responsible Fashion Industry. http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html.
    • Dombeck-Keith, K. and Loker, S. 2009. Clothing Care Calculator. An Interactive Tool to evaluate Environmental Impact. In Educating for a Socially Responsible Fashion Industry. http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html.
    • Loker, S. 2009. e-clips [http:eclips.cornell.edu] A Video Clip Database including Socially Responsible Apparel Businesses. In Educating for a Socially Responsible Fashion Industry. http://fashioninganethicalindustry.org/static/machine_rollover.html.


    Progress 10/01/06 to 09/30/07

    Outputs
    OUTPUTS: The first three ten one-credit courses on social responsible apparel production and sourcing were offered on-line for Cornell University, University of Delaware, and Colorado State University students. External evaluation of the course outlines and reading lists by industry experts as well as student evaluations of courses were conducted. The evaluation results will be used to revise current course materials and in the development of the final seven courses. The first draft of a textbook, Socially Responsible Apparel Production and Sourcing, was submitted to Fairchild Publications as contracted. Presentations were made at the American Anthropological Association in Washington DC, Nov. 28- Dec. and the International Textile and Apparel Association, Nov. 7-10, Los Angeles, CA. A guest speaker was hosted at the International Textile and Apparel Association and two designs based on environmental sustainability were exhibited. Dombek-Keith, K. The dowry dress. Juried Design Exhibit. International Textile and Apparel Association, November 7-10, Los Angeles, CA. Sponsored presentation and workshop at International Textile and Apparel Association, November 7-10, Los Angeles, CA. Natalie Chanin. Sustainability and the Local Artisan and Living Arts Workshop: Traditional American Techniques in Contemporary Context. PARTICIPANTS: Collaborators: Dr. Marsha Dickson Dr. Molly Eckman Katie Dombek-Keith Tasha Lewis Natalie Chanin Sandra Keiser Bena Burda Sheila Danko Foengfurad Mungtavesinsuk Kirk Mayer Jill Dumain TARGET AUDIENCES: Apparel industry professionals, graduate students and advanced undergraduates are the target audiences for our on-line courses, books, publications, and presentations. The goal is to promote positive change in the apparel industry by engaging current and future professionals in discussion and adoption of socially responsible business practices.

    Impacts
    This research conducts in-country studies on the global nature of the apparel and textile industries and analyzes specific examples of best practices, effects on local and regional economies, and reflection of industrial advancements in indigenous cultures. The research, courses, and publications inform current and future apparel industry professionals about the importance of social responsible business practices and potential implementation methods. Its results are integrated into web-based course offerings and will be reported in profession journals for academic study and use by entrepreneurs and large firms in international business.

    Publications

    • Loker, S. 2008. A technology enabled sustainable fashion system: Fashions future. In Hethorn, J. & Ulasewicz, C. (Eds.). Sustainable Fashion, Why Now? NY: Fairchild.


    Progress 01/01/06 to 12/31/06

    Outputs
    Research trips to Viet Nam and Thailand focused on identifying global supply chains among Western and developing countries and a variety of approaches to human rights, fair labor, and environmental practices. These and earlier findings were applied to the development of ten one-credit courses. Outlines, schedules for offering, and course reading lists were developed, and successfully submitted for approval at Cornell, University of Delaware, and Colorado State University.

    Impacts
    This research conducts in-country studies on the global nature of the apparel and textile industries and analyzes specific examples of best practices, effects on local and regional economies, and reflection of industrial advancements in indigenous cultures. The goal is to inform current and future apparel industry professionals about the importance of social responsible business practices and potential implementation methods. Its results are integrated into web-based course offerings and will be reported in profession journals for academic study and use by entrepreneurs and large firms in international business.

    Publications

    • No publications reported this period


    Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05

    Outputs
    Two project meetings were held with USDA Challenge Grant principle investigators to 1) plan and organize research trips and 2) to develop methods for data collection and application to case study and course development related to social responsible business practices in the apparel, textile, and footwear industries. A work plan matrix was developed by identifying countries or regions where apparel, textile and footwear production is being sourced and important social responsibility issues (e.g., human rights, fair labor practices, and environmental stewardship). Two researchers toured factories and conducted interviews of business, government, and non-governmental professionals in Turkey and two other researchers in Hong Kong and China. Additional research was conducted in Turkey focused on the development and evolution of culturally rich craft production approaches as well as the adoption of advancing technologies in textile industries. Data collection by interview, observation, and historical documents supplemented earlier work on the impacts of the industries on the people and economy of Turkey and on other parts of the world.

    Impacts
    Best practices that include socially responsible approaches to human rights, fair labor practices, and environmental stewardship will be identified and integrated into web-based courses for program offerings in university textiles and apparel departments. These courses will be offered at Cornell, University of Delaware, and Colorado State initially and then for students at other universities and for industry professionals. The goal is to inform current and future apparel industry professionals about the importance of social responsible business practices and potential implementation methods. This research conducts in-country studies on the global nature of the apparel and textile industries and analyzes specific examples of best practices, effects on local and regional economies, and reflection of industrial advancements in indigenous cultures. Its results are integrated into the curriculum and will be reported in profession journals for academic study and use by entrepreneurs and large firms in international business.

    Publications

    • No publications reported this period