The Operation of a Research, Education, and Technology Transfer Program for the Textile Industrial Complex

Knowledge Area (KA)	Subject of Investigation (SOI)	Field of Science (FOS)	Percent
804	5110	3000	20%
804	5120	2000	40%
804	5120	2020	40%

Progress 10/01/08 to 09/30/09

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Results of the surface chemistry work were presented by a graduate student at the NTC Forum in Greenville, NC in October, 2009 and won the award for Materials - Best Poster : Fiber Based Biohazard Sensor Assemblies (Project Team Leader - Margaret Frey, Cornell). The graduate student also took 3rd place in the student competition at the NTC Forum and has defended her M.S. thesis. At present there in one graduate and one undergraduate student involved in the bacteria cellulose research. The results have been presented orally and through poster presentations at conferences as invited lectures. One paper has been published and one manuscript is being written. A new method to measure the mechanical properties of nanofibers using acoustic microscopy was developed taking advantage of the resonance frequencies and vibration modes of cantilevers. A new method to translate electrostatic field gradients into surface charge density values was developed and tested. This part of the project was involved in several outreach activities with undergraduate research students including a workshop on how to prepare scientific research posters for the LSAMP (Louis Stokes Alliance for Minority Participation) Summer Research program. We organized a symposium on cellulose based and other green composites during the ACS National Meeting in Salt lake City, UT. Our group produced 1 presentation for the MRS Annual Meeting, 1 for the meeting of the society of rheology and 6 presentations at the ACS National meeting by postdoctoral fellows, graduate and undergraduate students. Methodological and technical issues related to the collection and use of three dimensional body scan data for fit analysis have continued to be investigated. A study using 3D scans to measure and analyze change in lower body measurements for standing, stepping, and sitting postures was conducted, measuring 25 females, aged 18 to 24. Small dimensional hemispheres identified body landmarks for reliable measurement of the 3D scans. Nineteen measurements from each active posture were compared to the standing posture. Automated measurements from programs designed by the developers of scanners can only be used to measure scans taken in standing positions. Therefore, for this study, measurements were taken on the screen from the 3D scans using measurement tools from software developed by Innovmetric, the Polyworks program IM Edit. Selected scan measurements were repeated three times to test for reliability. PARTICIPANTS: Professor Margaret Frey; students: Mary Rebovich, Erin Hendrick; postdoctoral fellow: Dr. Lili Li Professor Anil Netravali; students: Kaiyan Qiu and Aaron Shortell Professor Juan Hinestroza Professor Susan Ashdown; students: Hwa Kyung Song, Fatma Baytar; Catherine Devine, project manager; Harrison Tsi, Jennifer Keene, undergraduate research assistants, Sun Yoon Choi, post-doctoral fellow. Partner Organizations: Nike Apparel TARGET AUDIENCES: Textile, non-woven and health diagnostic industries; sustainable, green industries; defense and security industries; the apparel industry. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.

Impacts
Surface chemistry and pore size distribution of nanofiber membranes have been modified to optimize transport of fluids, cells, biological molecules and detection molecules. A cellulose nitrate-acetate (CNA) mixed ester nanofiber has been created by replacing some acetate groups on cellulose acetate with nitrate and subsequently electrospinning fibrous membranes. This work was motivated by suitability of cellulose nitrate-acetate films for bioassays and the goal of creating high surface area membranes based on nanofibers. Membranes with bimodal pore size distribution designed for fluid and cell transport have been prepared by electrospinning fibers on collectors with patterned conductive and insulating elements. Increasing the proportion of large pores decreased the rate of liquid uptake (wicking) by the membrane. Food waste products have been used to grow bacterial cellulose (BC), which is produced as nanofibers with excellent mechanical properties. Composite membranes have been fabricated using BC and soy-based resins using a novel 1-step process. The same process may also be used to incorporate other nanofibers or nanoparticles to enhance the composite properties. The green composite technology has been licensed to an Ithaca based company for commercialization. The company currently produces green skateboards and is developing other applications for the green composites such as furniture and creating manufacturing jobs in upstate New York. The company created five jobs in upstate New York and plans to hire more in the coming year. Green composites, when fully developed, can replace non-degradable plastics (based on petroleum) in mass produced goods such as automobiles and semi-durable consumer products. A new analytical method to translate electrostatic field gradients into surface charge density values obtained during Electrostatic Force Microscopy Measurements was developed and tested. A new Acoustic Force Atomic Microscopy method was discovered by taking advantage of Eigen values of the resonance modes for cantilevers. The method allows for measuring elastic moduli of domains as small as 15 nanometers. For the standing/stepping/seated study, comparison of repeated scan measurements showed no significant differences, establishing the reliability of this method of measuring scans using physical landmarks. Comparisons of measurements in the active postures showed significant changes from the standard standing scan posture. The sitting posture showed the most change in measurements. Change values ranged from -28% to +19% changes from the standing position. The measurement of 3D scans provided a reliable and convenient method for comparative measurements between active body positions, which would be impractical to measure using standard anthropometric methods.

Publications

Zhu, H. and Hinestroza, J. 2009. Collection Efficiency for Filters with Staggered Parallel Y and Triple Y Fibers: A Numerical Study. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 4(1):16-25.
Huang, X. and Netravali, A. N. 2009. Biodegradable Green Composites Made using Bamboo Micro/Nano-Fibrils and Chemically Modified Soy Protein Resin. Composites Science and Technology, 69:1009-1025.
Dong, H. and Hinestroza, J. 2009. Metal Nanoparticles on Natural Cellulose Fibers: Electrostatic Assembly and In Situ Synthesis. Applied Materials and Interfaces, 1 (4): 797-803.
Song, J., Liang, J., Liu, X., Krause, W., Hinestroza, J. and Rojas, O. 2009. Development and Characterization of Thin Polymer Films Relevant to Fiber Processing. Thin Solid Films, 517 (15):4348-4354.

Progress 10/01/07 to 09/30/08

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Nanoparticles were added to both dry spun and electrospun fibers and analyzed under confocal and scanning electron microscopy. Mechanical properties of the fibers and fabrics were assessed. Fabrics with bimodal pore size distribution were created by electrospinning the fibers selectively onto a patterned substrate. Process and rate of cellulose in ethylene diamine/salt solutions was measured. Fibers were produced by dry-jet wet spinning. Strong soy protein based resins have been developed by blending with a polycarboxylic acid. Commercially available micro-fibrillated cellulose (MFC) was used to further improve mechanical properties of the soy resin and LC cellulose fibers were used to fabricate high strength green composites. Inexpensive and sustainable carbon source such as soy waste product was used for bacterial cellulose (BC) culture. Initial results have shown that green composite membranes based on BC and soy protein as well as starch can be prepared. New membranes were developed to provide enhanced personal protection and better meet the competing needs for thermal comfort and protection from liquid penetration by chemical challenges in protective clothing for agricultural/chemical workers or military. these active surfaces can also be used to improve indoor air quality. Metal oxides, TiO2 and MgO, were incorporated in organic/inorganic hybrid nanofibers and on traditional fabric. Both materials demonstrated the oxidation of the carbamate pesticide, aldicarb into a potentially less-toxic product. Methodological and technical issues related to the collection and use of three dimensional body scan data for fit analysis continue to be investigated. Fit data collected from a physical fit process has been compared to visual fit data from 3D scans of the participants in the garments, and a series of interviews of fit specialists in the industry has been conducted. A study of appropriate ease values for good fit of women's jackets and a test of four different sizing systems developed using these data are complete. The sizing system developed based on anthropometric data from the population and size and shape dependent ease values performed better than other sizing systems. A study of sizing, fit and function of smart jackets for women over 55 is completed. A focus group meeting of firefighters has been conducted, and a study comparing the performance of firefighter uniforms for users in active positions using 3D scan data and physiological measures is underway. A study of body surface measurement changes for women in standing, walking, and seated positions is also underway. A new method to measure the mechanical properties of nanofibers using acoustic microscopy was developed. Several outreach activities for high school students were held in Puerto Rico as well as training of high school physics teachers through the Cornell Center for Nanoscale Systems. Eight presentations at the ACS national meeting by graduate and undergraduate students were made, and a symposium on cellulose based and other green composites was organized. PARTICIPANTS: Professor Margaret Frey Professor Anil Netravali Professor Kay Obendorf Professor Susan Ashdown Professor Juan Hinestroza TARGET AUDIENCES: Not relevant to this project. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.

Impacts
Fluorescent nanoparticles were successfully incorporated into CA fibers for use as an anti-counterfeiting device. Confocal microscopy confirmed that these nanoparticles fluoresce within the fiber at a specific wavelength of light. SEM images showed that these nanoparticles were not well dispersed in the fibers. Incorporation of the nanoparticles had little effect on the mechanical properties of the fibers and fabrics. Electrospinning onto a patterned rather than flat substrate offered increased control over fiber deposition and influenced fluid transport through the resulting fabrics. A mechanism for cellulose dissolution in ethylene diamine salt was proposed and optimum fiber coagulation conditions were measured. Self decontaminating membranes and traditional finished textile fabrics are available for use in protective clothing to reduce risk to occupational workers and for use in passive textile to be used in the interior furnishing of the built environment to actively reduce airborne chemical toxins. For the study of ease values in women's jackets, a method of testing sizing systems in comparison with one another was developed, a contribution to methodology for sizing research. A new method to conformally deposit nanoparticles on the surfaces of natural and synthetic fibers has been developed and tested. Via novel Acoustic Force Atomic Microscopy methods it was discovered that nanofibers can become up to 15 times stronger by using bicomponent extrusion techniques.

Publications

Xiao, M and Frey, M.W. (2008). Rheological Studies of the Interactions in Cellulose/Ethylene Diamine/Salt Systems, Journal of Polymer Science Part B-Polymer Physics, 46(21): 2326-2334.
Xiao, M and Frey, M.W. (2008). The role of salt on cellulose dissolution in ethylene diamine/salt solvent systems, Cellulose, 14(3): 225-234.
Lee, S. and Obendorf, S.K. (2007). Use of Electrospun Nanofiber Web for Protective Textile Materials as Barriers to Liquid Penetration, Textile Research Journal, 77:696-702..
Tan, K. and Obendorf, S.K. (2007). Fabrication and evaluation of electrospun nanofibrous antimicrobial nylon 6 membranes, Journal of Membrane Science, 305:287-298.
Na, H. and Ashdown, S.P. (2008). Comparison of 3-D body scan data to quantify upper body postural variation in older and younger women Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 26 (4):292-307.
Ashdown, S.P., Choi, M. S., Milke, E. (2008). Automated side-seam placement from 3D body scan data. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20(4):199-213.
Petrova, A. and Ashdown, S.P. (2008). 3-D body scan data analysis: Body size and shape dependence of ease values for pants fit, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 26(3):227-252.
Avila, A.G., Hinestroza, J.P. (2008). Tough Cotton, Nature Nanotechnology,3(8):458-459.
Dong, H., Wang, D., Sun, G., Hinestroza, J. (2008). Assembly of Metal Nanoparticles on Electrospun Nylon 6 Nanofibers by Control of Interfacial Hydrogen Bonding Interactions, Chemistry of Materials 20 (21):6627-6632.
Wu, H., Fan, J., Qin, X., Mo, S., Hinestroza, J. (2008). Fabrication and characterization of a novel PP/PVA/Al hybrid layered assembly for high performance fibrous insulations, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 110 (4):2525-2530.
Talwar, S., Hinestroza, J. Pourdeyhimi, B., Khan, S. (2008). Associative Polymer Facilitated Electrospinning of Nanofibers, Macromolecules, 41(12):4275-4283.

Progress 10/01/06 to 09/30/07

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Fibers have been spun from cellulose/EDA/KSCN solutions using a dry-jet wet spinning method and coagulating in methanol. Fibers have round cross sections, smooth surfaces and uniform morphology. Fiber tensile properties are comparable to commercial rayon and lyocell fibers. Measurement of the cellulose molecular weight (as degree of polymerization - DP) confirmed that the solvent does not degrade cellulose even after storage times of up to 1 month and regardless of salt concentration. Solutions exhibit shear thinning behavior and viscosity of the system continually decreases over time. This decrease in viscosity, without an accompanying decrease in polymer molecular weight, is attributed to constantly evolving interactions between cellulose and the solvent. Results of the cellulose work were presented at the ACS meeting in Chicago, IL , Asian Textile Conference 9 (ATC-9) in Taichung, Taiwan and at the Fiber Society Meeting in Davis, CA in 2007. A patent application is being submitted on the development of a mathematical model that uses 3D body scan data to improve sizing systems for the target markets of individual apparel companies. This model uses mathematical expressions of geometric shapes to virtually test garments on 3D body scans of target market customers. Methodological and technical issues related to the collection and use of three dimensional body scan data for fit analysis are being investigated. A study comparing fit data collected from a physical fit process to fit data from 3D scans of the participants in the garments is underway. A study of appropriate ease values for good fit of women's jackets has been completed, and two different sizing systems have been developed using this data. Testing of the sizing systems is underway. A study of the thermal protection provided by firefighter's turnout gear is being conducted, with focus group meetings of firefighters planned as an initial step. A study of sizing, fit and function of jackets for women over 55 is in progress. A series of garment shapes are being developed and garments are being made from identical patterns for these garment shapes using materials with different properties. Images and data from the fabrics and garments will be used to develop and verify virtual garments on virtual figures. PARTICIPANTS: Professor Ann Lemley, Professor Margaret Frey, Professor Anil Netravali, Professor Juan Hinestroza, Professor Susan Ashdown TARGET AUDIENCES: The target audience includes fiber and recycling industries, garment manufacturers, and the Department of Defense.

Impacts
A new experimental method to determine the electrical charge in polymeric fibers using electrostatic force microscopy was developed and tested. The first direct measurement of the fluid velocity of an electrospinning jet was obtained using particle image velocimetry. A novel procedure to conformally coat natural fibers via atomic layer deposition was developed and tested. Rheological methods were used to confirm that the EDA/KSCN solvent does not degrade cellulose even at aging times over one month and regardless of salt concentration. The solutions demonstrated shear thinning behavior at all concentrations. The shear behavior of the solutions does not exhibit steady state behavior, however, and continues to change over time. Solutions were measured at times up to 1 month and had not reached a steady state. Since the continually decreasing viscosity can not be attributed to cellulose degradation, it must be related to constantly evolving interactions between cellulose and the solvent system. In the upcoming year we will continue to elucidate those interactions. Fibers with excellent properties have been spun from cellulose/EDA/KSCN solutions. Methanol has been identified as an excellent coagulant for this system. A dry-jet wet spinning technique was used to form fibers. Thermal analysis and spectroscopy techniques were used to confirm that no KSCN salt remained in the fibers after coagulation. Following coagulation fibers were drawn at room temperature and 100oC. Increasing the drawing temperature increased the tenacity and decreased the elongation to break of fibers as expected. Fibers had Cellulose II crystal morphology. Green composites, when fully developed, can replace non-degradable plastics (based on petroleum) in mass produced goods such as automobiles and semi-durable consumer products. The company which has licensed this technology has started producing skateboards that use green composites and has already created three jobs in upstate New York and plans to hire more. Information on the use of 3D scans for apparel fit analysis provides a new way of recording, comparing, and analyzing fit data for research projects and for the industry. The creation of a sizing system using empirically derived ease values provides a new methodology for creating sizing systems.

Publications

Xiao, M. and Frey, M.W. 2007. The Role of Salt on Cellulose Dissolution in Ethylene Diamine/Salt Solvent Systems, Cellulose, 14, 225-234.
Wang, D., Sun, G., Chiou, B-S, Hinestroza, J. 2007. Controllable Fabrication and Properties of Polypropylene Nanofibers. Polymer Eng. & Sci. 47:1865-1872.
Bellan, L., Craighead, H., Hinestroza, J. 2007. Direct measurement of fluid velocity in an electrospinning jet using particle image velocimetry. Journal of Applied Physics 102: 943-948.
Hyde, G.K., Park, K.J., Stewart, S.M., Hinestroza, J.P., Parsons, G.N. 2007. Atomic Layer Deposition of Conformal Inorganic Nanoscale Coatings on Three-Dimensional Natural Fiber Systems: Effect of Surface Topology on Film Growth Characteristics. Langmuir. 23: 9844-9849.
Hyde, K. Dong, H., Hinestroza, J. 2007. Effect of surface cationization on the conformal deposition of polyelectrolytes over cotton fibers. Cellulose. 14: 615-623.
Kim, J., Jasper, W., Hinestroza, J. 2007. Direct probing of solvent induced charge degradation in polypropylene electret fibers via electrostatic force microscopy. Journal of Microscopy. 20: 72-79.
Hyde, G.K., Hinestroza, J. 2007. Multilayered films via Electrostatic Self-Assembly: A novel approach to fiber functionalization. In P. Brown(Ed), Handbook of Nanofibers and Nanotechnology in textiles. Woodhead Publishing Limited. ISBN: 9781420044492.
Barrera, C., Rinaldi, C., Satcher, M., Hinestroza, J. 2007. Electrospun Nanofibers with Magnetic Domains for Smart Tagging of Textile Products, Handbook of Nanoscience, Engineering, and Technology, Second Edition (2007); Taylor and Francis Publishing, ISBN: 9780849375637.
Netravali, A.N., Huang, X. and Mizuta, K. 2007. Advanced Green Composites, Advanced Composite Materials, 16:269-282.
Yamamoto, Y., Zahora, D. and Netravali, A.N. 2007. Determination of the Interfacial Properties between Modified Soy Protein Resin and Kenaf Fiber, Composite Interfaces, 14 (7):699-713.
Huang, X. and Netravali, A.N. 2007. Characterization of flax yarn and flax fabric reinforced nano-clay modified soy protein resin composites, Composites Science and Technology, 67:2005-2014.
Netravali, A.N. 2007. Fiber/Resin Interface Modification in Green Composites, pp. 847-867, in Handbook of Engineering Biopolymers, Homopolymers, Blends and Composites, S. Fakirov and D. Bhattacharyya, Ed.s, Hanser Publishers, Munich, Germany.
Lew, C., Choudhury, F., Hosur, M. and Netravali, A.N. 2007. The Effect of Silica (SiO2) Nanoparticle and Ethylene/Ammonia Plasma on the Carbon Fiber/Nanoepoxy Interfacial Shear Strength, Journal of Adhesion Science and Technology, 21:1407-1424.
Zeng, J. and Netravali, A.N. 2007. XeCl Excimer Laser Treatment of Vectran Fibers in Diethylenetriamine (DETA) Environment, pp. 87-111, in Polymer Surface Modification: Relevance to Adhesion, Vol. 4, K. L Mittal, Ed., VSP, Leiden, The Netherlands.
Huang, X. 2007. Preparation and Investigation of Soy Protein Based Environmentally Friendly Plastics and Composites, Ph.D. Thesis, Cornell University.
Ashdown, S.P. (Ed.). 2007. Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England.
Loker, S. & Ashdown. S.P. 2007. Virtual sensation: Dress online, In Dress Sense: Emotional and Sensory Experiences of the Body and Clothes, Donald Clay Johnson and Helen Bradley Foster, Berg Publishers, NY.
Ashdown, S.P., Palmer, P. & Lyman-Clarke, L. 2007. Sizing for the home sewing industry, In Ashdown, S.P., Editor. Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England.
Ashdown, S.P., Smith, J., Loker, S. & Lyman-Clarke, L. 2007. Production systems, distribution systems and sizing, In Ashdown, S.P., Editor. Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England.
Ng, R., Ashdown, S.P, & Chan, A. 2007. Intelligent size table generation. Proceedings of the Asian Textile Conference (ATC), 9th Asian Textile Conference, Taiwan.
Ashdown, S.P. & Loker, S. 2007. Mass Customized Target Market Sizing: Extending the Sizing Paradigm for Improved Apparel Fit, Proceedings of the 2007 World Congress on Mass Customization and Personalization, October 7-9, 2007, Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
Calhoun, E.L., Lyman-Clarke, L., Ashdown, S.P. 2007. Virtual Fit of Apparel on the Internet: Current Technology and Future Needs, Proceedings of the 2007 World Congress on Mass Customization and Personalization, October 7-9, 2007, Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

Progress 01/01/06 to 12/31/06

Outputs
To overcome the mechanical performance limitations of silicon, a novel technology for MEMS based on fibrous materials was developed. The performance of the carbon fiber MEMS cantilever optical scanner structures has shown that these materials are mechanically superior to silicon. A novel plasma chemistry with carbon fiber etch rates exceeding 700 nm/min was also developed. Organic materials and gold-silicon eutectic have shown robust bond strengths between carbon fibers and silicon substrates. Efforts are underway to integrate sensing and actuating elements with the MEMS structures. It has been shown that ethylene diamine (EDA)/KSCN solvent can dissolve high molecular weight cellulose without any pretreatment and/or derivatization. 39K and 14N NMR experiments conducted at 70C showed that the K+ ion interacts with the cellobiose more than the SCN ion does. Changes in the FTIR absorption bands of regenerated cellulose were associated with a change in the conformation of the C-6 CH2OH group and with the breaking of hydrogen bonds in cellulose. Wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD) showed that cellulose regenerated by precipitating cellulose solutions with water transformed from cellulose I to cellulose II crystalline structure. A moiety of 2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-imidozalidin-4-one (TMIO) hydantoin was successfully grafted onto microporous polyurethane (PU) membrane surface as an N-halamine precursor to impart antimicrobial properties. A combination of techniques was used to characterize the surface and thermal and mechanical properties were evaluated. Upon exposure to chlorine bleaching, the hydantoin structures on the grafted PU membranes were transformed into N-halamines. A total reduction of both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria was observed after a two-hour contact period. Consequently, a microporous membrane that possesses good barrier and hygiene protections and maintains sufficient water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) for comfort was developed. Experimental work aimed at depositing metal nanoparticles of silver, gold, platinum and palladium on the surface of cotton fibers was initiated. The particles were synthesized via a colloidal chemistry approach and coated with citric acid. The cotton fibers were chemically modified to create cationic charges on their surfaces. The conformal coating was achieved by controlling the electrostatic interactions between the negatively charged nanoparticles and the positive cotton fibers. The efficacy of the coating was assessed and the results are encouraging: two invention disclosures were filed. Work continues on development of a mathematical model that uses 3D body scan data to improve sizing systems for the target markets of individual apparel companies. A model using mathematical expressions of geometric shapes is being developed and tested. The reactions of different target markets (teenagers, men, older women, young professionals, and other occupational groups) to the process of scanning are also being explored. Studies of appropriate ease values for good fit, the use of 3D images to assess fit for sizing studies, and the use of virtual fit tools by consumers are underway.

Impacts
These advances in fiber science have applicability in products for industry and government and will contribute to economic development in the fiber/apparel industry. Some of the techniques being developed can be applied to products with unique and improved permeability, selectivity and barrier properties. The MEMS work has a direct application in many devices including head-mounted displays (for soldiers in the battlefield), barcode scanners, printers, and various military and medical devices, e.g. colonoscopy. The cellulose work has direct application in biomass research, e.g, converting biomass to ethanol. The body scan research investigates technology-driven changes in the way that apparel is designed, produced, and distributed. This work can help the military efficiently size uniforms and fit protective clothing, and provides advanced technology applications to improve the economy of the apparel industry.

Publications

Desai, S., Netravali, A. N., and Thompson, M. O. 2006. Carbon fibers as a novel material for high performance Microelectromechanical Systems (MEMS. J. Micromech. Microeng. 16:1403-1407.
Frey, M. W., Li, L., Xiao, M., and Gould, T. 2006 Dissolution of cellulose in ethylene diamine/salt solvent systems. Cellulose 13(2):147-155.
Ashdown, S. P. and Dunne, L. 2006. A study of automated custom fit: Readiness of the technology for the apparel industry. Clothing and Text.Res.J., Focused Issue on Fit, 24(2), 121-136.
Ashdown, S. P. and O'Connell, E. K. 2006. Comparison of test protocols for judging the fit of mature women's apparel. Clothing and Text.Res.J., Focused Issue on Fit, 24(2):137-146.
Griffey, J. V, and Ashdown, S. P. 2006. Development of an automated process for the creation of a basic skirt block pattern from 3D body scan data. Clothing and Text. Res. J., Focused Issue on Fit. 24(2):112-120.
Schofield, N. A., Ashdown, S. P., Hethorn, J., LaBat, K., and Salluso, C. J. 2006. Improving fit for women 55 and older through an exploration of two pant shapes. Clothing and Text.Res. J., Focused Issue on Fit. 24(2):147-160.
Lee, Y. A., Ashdown, S. P., and Slocum, A. C. 2006. Measurement of surface area of 3-D body scans to assess the effectiveness of hats for sun protection. Family and Consumer Sciences Res. J. 34(4):366-385. Available at http://fcs.sagepub.com/cgi/reprint/34/4/366.
Lee, J. and Ashdown, S. P. 2005. Upper body change analysis using 3-D body scanner. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, English Edition 29(12):1595-1607.

Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05

Outputs
Novel carbon Fiber Integrated MEMS (FIM) structures which can achieve extremely large deformations at high speeds (8-30 kHz) with nearly fatigue-free behavior have been developed. Using existing MEMS fabrication techniques, carbon fiber-based MEMS optical scanners have been fabricated that demonstrate angular scans greater than160 degrees at a 2.5 kHz resonance. These novel carbon FIM structures are shown to be successful in overcoming the fracture toughness and fatigue limitations of existing material technologies such as silicon and metal films. The use of microporous hybrid (hydrophobic/hydrophilic) membranes as an approach for materials development to balance the competing performance of protection and comfort in a hot and humid environment was explored. Microporous PU membranes were surface modified by using a two-step grafting process. Surface grafting was confirmed, and appropriate grafting time and temperature were determined. The hydrophilicity of microporous polyurethane membranes was improved after surface modification with PEG, and WVTR tests revealed that the modified membranes were responsive to moisture stimuli. There have been significant advances in the method for preparing samples for the creation of a new class of cellulose engineering materials. By increasing shear and decreasing temperature of starting ingredients, the time required to prepare cellulose solutions has been reduced from several hours to under 15 minutes. New melt-spun poly(ester-amide) fibers were subject to both animal implantation study for biocompatibility and in vitro biodegradation study. The animal implantation data indicate that the new biodegradable PEA fibers are as biocompatible as commercial synthetic absorbable suture fibers like Monocryl from Johnson and Johnson. The data from the in vitro biodegradation study indicate these PEA fibers are enzymatically sensitive and retain better tensile strength than the corresponding size commercial suture fiber, Monocryl, in phosphate buffer solution at 37C. The ultimate goal of developing a process by which apparel firms can interpret and apply body scan data from their target market in the development and assessment of their pattern development, grading, and sizing systems is progressing. There are four steps: scanning of subjects from the target market (minimally clothed and in the firm's garments), analysis of fit data from the scans, comparison of anthropometrics of the scanned subjects to the target market population and recommendations for pattern and sizing system modifications. Accomplishments this year are the validation of the analysis of fit data, the development of a method of capturing fit data related to body movement, and development of methods to compare subject data to the population.

Impacts
Further development of the MEMS technology offers the potential to realize many moving MEMS structures previously considered unfeasible. Effects of composition on the dissolution and rheological studies of the cellulose solutions formed have been submitted for publication and will be of use to industry. A new family of biodegradable fibers having elastomeric characteristics has become feasible. These new fibers are as biocompatible as commercial synthetic absorbable suture fibers, i.e., more easily adopted by the FDA and industry. The development of an interpretation of body scan data to apply to industry sizing systems will ultimately provide apparel firms with an affordable and effective way of directly testing the validity of their patterns and sizing systems on their individual target market.

Publications

Lee, S. and Obendorf, S.K. 2005. Statistical model of pesticide penetration through woven work clothing fabrics. Archive of Environ. Contam. and Toxicol., 49:266-273.
Ashdown, S.P., Slocum, A. and Lee, Y.A. 2005. The third dimension for apparel designers: Visual assessment of hat designs for sun protection using 3-D scan images, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 23 (3), 151-164.
Loker, S., Ashdown, S.P. and Schoenfelder, K. 2005. Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management. 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Loker/Loker_full_ 136_05.pdf.
Nam, J., Branson, D.H., Ashdown, S.P., Cao, H., Jin, B. and Peksoz, S. 2005. Fit analysis of liquid cooled vest prototypes using 3D body scanning technology. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management. 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Dunne/Dunne_full_ 144_05.pdf.
Loker, S., Ashdown, S.P. and Schoenfelder, K.A. 2005. Size specific analysis for body scan data to improve apparel fit. Journal of Textiles and Apparel, Management and Technology. 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/.
Frey, M.W., Chan, H., and Carrancko, K. 2005. Rheology of cellulose/KSCN/ethylene diamine solutions and coagulation into fibers and films. Journal of Polymer Science, Part B: Polymer Physics. 43, 2013-2022.
Kim, C.-W., Frey, M.W., Marquez, M., and Joo, Y.L. 2005. Preparation of electrospun cellulose nanofibers via direct dissolution. Journal of Polymer Science, Part B: Polymer Physics. 43, 1673-1683.
Zhang, X.Z. and Chu, C.C. 2005. Temperature sensitive poly(N-isopropylacrylamide)/poly(ethylene glycol) diacrylate hydrogel microspheres: formulation and controlled drug release. Am. J. Drug Delivery. 3(1): 55-56, (2005).
Guo, K., Chu, C.C., Chkhaidze, E. and Katsarava, R. 2005. Syntheses and characterization of novel biodegradable unsaturated poly(ester-amide)s. J. Polym. Sci. Polym. Chem ed. 43:1463-1477.
Guo, K. and Chu, C.C. 2005. Synthesis, characterization and swelling behaviors of novel biodegradable unsaturated poly(ester-amide)s/poly(ethylene glycol) diacrylate hydrogels. J. Polym. Sci. Polym. Chem ed. 43: 3932-3944.
Zhang, X.Z., Lewis, P.J. and Chu, C.C. 2005. Fabrication and characterization of a smart drug delivery system: microsphere in hydrogel. Biomaterials. 26(16): 3299-3309.
Lee, S. 2005. Textiles, protective clothing materials to limit liquid penetration. Ph.D. Dissertation. Cornell University. May, 2005

Progress 01/01/04 to 12/31/04

Outputs
We have successfully achieved the design, synthesis and characterization of a new class of synthetic biodegradable polymers that have unique and extremely useful properties that none of the current commercial aliphatic polyester-based biodegradable biomaterials would have. This new class of biodegradable biomaterials combine the merits of both polyester and polyamides into one single macromolecule and have unsaturated double bond functionality in their backbone which would permit us to design many different derivatives to widen the scope of applications, such as drug carriers, substrates for growing cells, and wound management. An example of one type of derivatives is hydrogel formation for use as drug carriers. Statistical models estimating the level of protection and thermal comfort performance based upon 18 woven fabrics were developed using simple fabric and liquid parameters. Residues for 17 pesticides were analyzed in 41 households in central New York to identity factors that influence both the transport into and the redistribution of pesticides in the indoor environment. Development of fabrication processes for MEMS cantilever and micro-bridge structures using conventional semiconductor fabrication processes was accomplished. A high speed laser flash photography system to characterize the oscillation characteristics of these MEMS structures has been built. The tip deflection of the cantilever at high frequencies (greater than 10KHz) can now be characterized. We are developing methods for improving ready-to-wear sizing systems for the apparel industry. Using a database of 3D scans of women from a specific target market group, we did statistical analyses to identify misfit within size categories. This forms the basis of a mathematical model to improve sizing systems that can be applied to other target markets. We also investigated body measurement variation related to different body positions. Work is underway to validate our sample against an anthropometric survey of the population and develop methods to create target market sizing from anthropometric data, in collaboration with the Textile Clothing Technology Corporation.

Impacts
NTC-supported research at Cornell University has led to successful outcomes for many companies. One example is work on chemical protective clothing in collaboration with NanoScale Materials, Inc. and Lynntech, Inc. on the use of nanoparticles in chemical protective clothing. Producers of microporous membranes for chemical and biological protection, including Laivan Corporation and Grace Chemical, are also involved. Chemical protective clothing is important to the National Personal Protective Technology Laboratory, NIOSH, CDC, and DHS for personal protective equipment for first responders. Research on biomedical materials is important to the health care industry. One researcher at Cornell has had a patent licensed by MediVas, which has developed new techniques to reduce artery re-blockage following surgery. This work with biodegradable hydrogels shows promise for wound-care products and substrates for tissue engineering to replace aged or diseased tissues or organs.

Publications

Zhang, X.Z., Wu, D.Q., Sun, G.M. and Chu, C.C. 2004. Synthesis and characterization of partially biodegradable, temperature and pH densitive Dex-MA/PNIPAAm Hydrogels. Biomaterials, 25:4719-4730.
Zhang, X.Z., Sun, G.M. and Chu, C.C. 2004. Temperature sensitive dendrite-shaped PNIPAAm/Dex-AI hybrid hydrogel particles: Formulation and properties. European Polymer Journal, 40:2251-2257.
Zhang, X.Z., Wu, D.Q., Sun, G.M. and Chu, C.C. 2004. Synthesis and characterization of partially biodegradable and thermosensitive hydrogel. J. Mater. Sci. Mater. in Med, 15:865-875.
Zhang, X.Z. and Chu, C.C. 2004. Dynamics studies on thermoresponsive poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) hydrogel in tetrahydrofuran/water mixture. Colloid and Polymer Sci, 282(6):589-595.
Zhang, X.Z., Wu, D.Q. and Chu, C.C. 2004. Synthesis, characterization and controlled drug release of the thermosensitive IPN-PNIPAAm Hydrogels. Biomaterials, 25(17):3793-3805.
Hild, D.N., Obendorf, S.K. and Fok, W.Y. 2004. Mapping of spin finish oils on nylon 66 fibers. Textile Research Journal, 74 (3):187-192.
Obendorf, S.K. 2004. Microscopy to define soil, fabric and detergent formulation characteristics that affect detergency: A review. AATCC Review, 4 (1):17-23.
Jeon, S.S., ORourke, T.D. and Netravali, A.N. 2004. Repetitive loading effects on cast iron pipelines with cast-in-place pipe lining systems. J. Transportation Engineering, 130(6):692-705.
Ohtsuka, M., Suzuki, Y., Sakai, T. and Netravali A.N. 2004. Comparison of effects of ultraviolet and 60co gamma ray irradiation on nylon 6 monofilaments. Fibers and polymers, 5(3):225-229.
Chabba, S. and Netravali, A.N. 2004. Green composites using modified soy protein concentrate resin and flax fabrics and yarns. Japan Soc. of Mech. Eng. (JSME) International Journal, 47(4):556-560.
Zeng, J. and Netravali, A.N. 2004. KrF Excimer Laser Surface Modification of Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Fibers for Improved Adhesion to Epoxy Resin. pp. 159-182, in Polymer Surface Modification: Relevance to Adhesion: Volume3, Mittal, K.L. Ed., VSP, Utrecht, The Netherlands.
Nam, S. and Netravali, A.N. 2004. Characterization of the ramie fiber/soy protein concentrate polymer resin interface. J. Adhes. Sci. Technol., 18(9):1063-1076.
Netravali, A.N. 2004. Biodegradable 'Green' Composites Using Ramie Fibers and Soy Protein Polymer, Chapter18 in Natural Fibers, Plastics and Composites. Wallenberger, F.T. and Weston, N.E., Eds., pp. 321-343, Kluwer Academic Publishers, Boston.
Loker, S., Ashdown, S.P., Cowie, L. and Schoenfelder, K.A. 2004. Consumer interest in commercial applications of body scan data. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4,(1):www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue1/articles/Loker/ Loker_full_100_04.pdf.
Ashdown, S.P., Loker, S., Schoenfelder, K.A., and Lyman-Clarke, L. 2004. Using 3D scans for fit analysis. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4,(1):www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue1/articles/Loker/Loker_full_1 03_04.pdf.
Lee, J.Y., Joo, S.Y. and Ashdown, S.P. 2004. A basic study contributes to extract the standardized 3D body data for women aged 60 and older. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Vol. 28, #2.
Loker, S., Cowie, L.S., Ashdown, S., and Lewis, V.D. 2004. Consumer reactions to body scanning. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22(4):151-160.