Progress 10/01/08 to 09/30/09
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Methodology development: This year we have conducted projects exploring the use of scan data for size set assessment, fit assessment, and body measurement in active positions A comparative study of the fit of athletic shorts and t-shirts was conducted on a participant group of 72 women using the 3D scanner. Garments from two different size sets were compared. Expert fit analysis was conducted of 144 t-shirts and 144 pair of shorts, judging the fit from the analysis of the 3D scan images of the study participants. Results from the expert analyses were compared to participant fit analyses. Ten study participants also participated in a wear test of the different garments, wearing them for workouts or for actual races. A study of the effectiveness of 3D scans as a tool for virtual fit analysis was conducted, comparing the actual fit of custom-fitted garments to a virtual fit representation of the same garments on avatar fitting models of the participants created from 3D body scans. The participants of the study were five women aged 20 to 35. Study garments were technical jackets designed for runners, with complex seaming that created a garment silhouette designed to fit the body in an active position. Three iterations of custom jackets were created for each participant. Gerber software was used for the creation of the automated custom patterns from which the jackets were assembled. Optitex software was used to create the virtual fitting garments using the same pattern shapes and fabric properties from the materials used to make the jackets. A method for creating avatars from 3D scans that could be imported into the Optitex software was developed using Geomagic software. Comparisons were made between photographs of the real jackets, and screen shots of the virtual jackets. A study was also conducted to analyze the fit and function of beach volleyball uniforms in active positions, using the 3D body scanner. Six women, ages 18-22, were scanned in their underwear and in beach volleyball outfits (sport bras and shorts) in the anthropometric position and in 5 active positions common in volleyball. Hemispherical landmarks were placed at 17 key anatomical points on the body so that measurements could be reliably taken and compared between the scans with uniforms, and those without uniforms. Eighteen measurements overall were taken on the active scans for comparison (3-4 measurements per body position). A study of bra fit and design was carried out for 34 young women participants. All subjects completed a questionnaire, and 15 subjects were scanned in their own bra, measured for size selection, and then scanned in two additional styles of bras. PARTICIPANTS: Individuals: Hwa Kyung Song, Fatma Baytar, graduate students; Catherine Devine, project manager; Harrison Tsi, Jennifer Keene, Ellen Hyde, Janice Nsor, Opetomi Seriki, undergraduate research assistants, Sun Yoon Choi, post-doctoral fellow. Partner Organizations: Nike Apparel, Adidas, Maidenform TARGET AUDIENCES: Apparel design and manufacturing firms, activewear designers, bra designers and manufacturers PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.
Impacts
Results of the comparative study of the fit of athletic shorts and t-shirts showed some agreement between expert and participant judgment of fit, especially in the smaller and larger sizes. Methodology findings included the perception that reliable fit analysis of a knitted garment such as a t-shirt from a 3D scan is only possible if the garment is dressed and adjusted on the study participant in a consistent manner, as the interaction of the close fitting knit on the body could vary greatly. Results of the experiment with virtual fit demonstrated that the virtual representation, though valid in some ways, did not convey the details of fabric deformation, and was also inaccurate in some length representations. However, the fit around the body was well represented. 3D virtual fit on avatars from 3D scans shows good potential as an appropriate tool for judging fit, as the technology is perfected. Results of the volleyball study showed significant differences in back width and center back waist to back posterior scye (average left and right) in the standard passing position. No significant differences were found in the other 16 measurements taken. Development of measurement procedures for surface body quantification in various active positions can provide information for designers of activewear and other apparel that fits and functions well for a wide range of activities. The bra testing study did not have enough participants to come to any conclusions about the fit or comfort of the bras studied, though a wireless style with an airpad push up feature was preferred by the women who tried this style. Overall, the size selection process based on body measurements did not result in the correct size for the women, re-inforcing the common understanding that trying on multiple sizes of bras in a retail setting is necessary to find the correct size. Industry partners for these studies were given full reports, including information useful to the design and marketing divisions of the companies.
Publications
- Na, H. and Ashdown, S.P. 2008. Comparison of 3-D body scan data to quantify upper body postural variation in older and younger women. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 26(4): 292 - 307.
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Progress 10/01/07 to 09/30/08
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Scan data is potentially a powerful source of data for fit and sizing analysis of garments, but the methodology for using these data must be validated and refined. Fit assessment of garments from 3D body scans was conducted in which women's jackets were scanned on subjects, and then physically fitted to the subjects. The 3D scans of the women were then assessed by a set of independent fit experts both from academia and from the apparel industry, to identify and quantify the alterations and amount of change needed. A comparison of the scan analysis and the actual alterations shows that the scanner is an effective tool for analysis of overall ease values and misfit due to stresses on the garments. This analysis is less effective for identifying small variations in ease values, and for aesthetic issues such as balance of woven garments and the fit of set-in sleeves at the armscye. Methodologies for assessing the success of a sizing system to fit the target market desired are also needed. A blind test of the effectiveness of different sizing systems was conducted, comparing four size sets of women's jackets with small differences in bust and waist ease values, and different drop (bust to hip proportion) values. Photographs of 81 women in the best fit size of a jacket from each sizing system were taken. Three fit judges then ranked the jackets from best fit to worst fit. There was some variation in judges rankings, but overall this method was successful, and could form the basis for the objective testing of sizing systems. A further issue in the creation of well fitting clothing is the changes in fit as we move. The 3D body scanner is an ideal tool for analysis of body measurement changes, as many complex measurements can be made of the same subject in different positions for comparison, using physical landmarks to ensure that the measurements are taken from the same place for each iteration. A study of lower body change in circumferences, depths, and lengths was undertaken for 25 size 10 female subjects aged 18 - 22. Measurements were taken for a standing position, two stepping, and one seated posture. Data are under analysis. PARTICIPANTS: Susan Ashdown; Hwa Kyung Song; Sun Yoon Choi; Catherine Devine; Nike Apparel; Lands'End TARGET AUDIENCES: Target audience is the apparel industry PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.
Impacts
The development of new methodologies for assessing sizing and fit are necessary in order to provide effective and affordable tools using the latest technologies for the apparel industry.
Publications
- Ashdown, S.P., Choi, M. S., Milke, E. (2008) Automated side-seam placement from 3D body scan data.(2008) International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20(4), 199-213.
- Ashdown, S.P., Editor. (2007) Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England.
- Loker, S., Ashdown. S.P., & Carnrite, E. (2008) Dress in the third dimension: On-line interactivity and its new horizons, invited paper for a focused issue on the future, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 26(3) 164-176.
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Progress 10/01/06 to 09/30/07
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Studies are underway to assess fit and sizing issues related to wearing of clothing in active positions using 3D body scan data. Work has also been done to assess virtual fit systems and to explore issues related to consumer perceptions of avatars of their body and of the virtual fit process. Work continues on the development of a mathematical model to test and improve ready-to-wear sizing systems for target markets for individual firms. Collaborators in this work are Nike Apparel, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, and the University of Iowa.
PARTICIPANTS: Individuals on the project include the principle investigators Susan Ashdown and Suzanne Loker, Project Manager Lindsay Lyman-Clarke, three graduste students, one post-doc, and two undergraduate research assistants. Partner organizations include Nike Apparel, the University of Iowa, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, and the University of Pretoria
TARGET AUDIENCES: The target audience for this research is the apparel industry, and consumers of apparel goods. Our research focuses on both ready-to-wear apparel and functional apparel. Outreach is provided through an online newsletter at http://www.topstitch.cornell.edu/and an outreach page at http://www.apparelindustry.cornell.edu/index.html.
Impacts
1) In preparation for a scanning event focused on clothing fit in working positions, a total of 57 subjects, 18 in California and 39 in New York, from different occupational groups were interviewed, photographed and given questionnaires addressing clothing fit and function to complete. Data have been compiled and the photographs have been analyzed to gain a better understanding of typical working positions and how fit issues may differ with common deviations from the standard anthropometric standing position. A set of typical working positions have been identified to be used in a scan study of the fit of protective clothing in active positions. 2) Women aged 26 to 55 in a range of sizes were scanned for a study of the fit of women's jackets. A custom-fitted princess style jacket was created for each participant in the study from a twill fabric, perfecting the fit of each jacket with multiple fittings. Ease values have been calculated for each subject, and the results
have been incorporated into a sizing system for women's jackets. This sizing system is currently being tested. 3) A study of a commercially available virtual fit assessment and size selection system was conducted. Ten women aged 20 to 24 compared virtual fit parametric models created from their measurements to 3D scans of themselves in the same clothing. Results were mixed, with some women preferring the parametric model and some preferring their scan. 4) In a study conducted with collaborator Nike Apparel, 73 college women aged 18 to 29 were scanned minimally clothed and in a Nike ready-to-wear jacket. Custom jackets were made for 37 of the participants of the study to investigate style and fit preferences of this demographic for an upper body garment. Participants preferred a close fitting jacket and a longer length than that preferred by an older demographic. 5) A study of the effectiveness of 3D scans for the analysis of fit is underway. Jackets were constructed for ten women, and
3D scans were made of the women wearing their jackets. The jackets were then custom fitted, and records were made of the alterations made in each case. Analyses of the fit of the jackets as judged from the 3D scan were compared to the actual fit alterations. Results show that some aspects of fit such as looseness or tightness at the hip and bust could be reliably judged from the scan, but fit issues related to seam placement could not be seen in the scan. 6) A study is underway to assess the fit of smart jackets for older women that are designed to provide heating and light sources powered by batteries and controlled with switches incorporated into the garment. 7) A series of garment shapes are being developed and garments are being made from identical patterns for these shapes using materials with different properties. Images and data from the fabrics and garments will be used to develop and verify virtual garments on virtual figures, in a collaborative project with computer science
faculty.
Publications
- Song, H.K. & Ashdown, S.P. 2007. Development of a Visual Fit Assessment Tool from 3D Scans., Presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Los Angeles, California, November 7-11, 2007, abstract in the ITAA 2007 Proceedings.
- Tiwari, S. 2007. Diffusion of RFID and 3D body scanning in apparel retail for mass customization: A consumer study. Unpublished Master's Thesis. Cornell University, Ithaca, NY.
- Loker, S. 2007. Mass customization and sizing. In Ashdown, S.P. (ed.), Sizing in clothing, Cambridge, England: Woodhead.
- Mason, A.M., de Klerk, H.M, Ashdown, S.P., & Sommerville, J. 2007. Consumers Knowledge on Sizing Issues: A Solution to Successful Apparel Selection in Developing Countries. Presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Los Angeles, California, November 7-11, 2007, abstract in the ITAA 2007 Proceedings.
- Ng, R., Ashdown, S.P. & Chan, A. 2007. Intelligent size table generation. Proceedings of the Asian Textile Conference (ATC), 9th Asian Textile Conference, Taiwan.
- Ashdown, S.P. (ed.) 2007. Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, England.
- Ashdown, S.P., Palmer, P. & Lyman-Clarke, L. 2007. Sizing for the home sewing industry, In Ashdown, S.P., (ed.) Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited.
- Ashdown, S.P., Smith, J., Loker, S. & Lyman-Clarke, L. 2007. Production systems, distribution systems and sizing, In Ashdown, S.P., (ed.) Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited.
- Ashdown, S.P., Mukhejee, S., Loker, S., Baytar, F. & Lyman-Clake, L. 2007. Consumer Judgment of Virtual Fit in an Online Environment., Presentation at the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Los Angeles, California, November 7-11, 2007, abstract in the ITAA 2007 Proceedings.
- Ashdown, S.P. & Loker, S. 2007. Mass Customized Target Market Sizing: Extending the Sizing Paradigm for Improved Apparel Fit, Proceedings of the 2007 World Congress on Mass Customization and Personalization, October 7-9, 2007, Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
- Calhoun, E.L., Lyman-Clarke, L., Ashdown, S.P. 2007. Virtual Fit of Apparel on the Internet: Current Technology and Future Needs, Proceedings of the 2007 World Congress on Mass Customization and Personalization, October 7-9, 2007, Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
- Loker, S. 2008. A technology enabled sustainable fashion system: Fashions future. In Hethorn, J. & Ulasewicz, C. (eds.). Sustainable Fashion, Why Now? NY: Fairchild.
- Loker, S. & Ashdown, S.P. 2007. Virtual sensation: Dress online. In Johnson, D.C. (ed.) Senses and sentiments in dress. London: Berg.
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Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05
Outputs
The ultimate goal of this project is to develop a process by which apparel firms can interpret and apply body scan data from their target market in the development and assessment of their pattern development, grading, and sizing systems. This process consists of four steps; scanning of subjects from the target market (minimally clothed and in the firm's garments), analysis of fit data from the scans, comparison of anthropometrics of the scanned subjects to the target market population and recommendations for pattern and sizing system modifications. The visual analysis of fit procedure has been validated. Five judges assessed the fit of pants at 15 locations on 153 female subjects. Cronbach's alpha scores determined that two judges are sufficient for reliable ratings if visual fit parameters are established and clearly defined for the judges. However, complex areas of misfit that are difficult to rate visually, such as the crotch, may require different assessment
methodology. A study was also conducted to assess changes in body measurements when subjects were in a standing and a seated position. Circumferences and breadths increased between the standing and seated position, while crotch lengths decreased. The data generally showed greater differences in measurements as the Body Mass Index score of the subjects increased, indicating variability in measurement changes for different body types. In another study scans of 25 young women sized 6 to 10 were taken that captured arm and shoulder movements in four different positions. Results showed significant changes in body measurements for different body positions, particularly in shoulder length, interscye front and back, and biacromion length. In this study the reliability of different methods of taking active measurements were also assessed. Comparison of measurements taken from body scans and from traditional manual measurements generally showed good reliability, but fully automated measurements
from the scans were not reliable.
Impacts
Our research addresses the use of 3D body scan data to improve existing sizing systems for apparel companies. This has the potential to reduce returns for online and catalogue retailers and to improve sales for all apparel manufacturers. Body scan research can also contribute to other apparel uses of this technology including automated custom fit, size and fit prediction, virtual try-on, personal shopper services, co-design mass customization, and custom pattern development for home sewers.
Publications
- Loker, S., Ashdown, S.P. and Schoenfelder, K. 2005. Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Loker/Loker_full_ 136_05.pdf
- Nam, J., Branson, D.H., Ashdown, S.P., Cao, H., Jin, B. and Peksoz, S. 2005. Fit analysis of liquid cooled vest prototypes using 3D body scanning technology, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue3/articles/Dunne/Dunne_full_ 144_05.pdf
- Loker, S. and Ashdown, S.P. 2005. The Body Scanner: Mass Customization Technology Applied to Ready-to-Wear. 3rd Interdisciplinary World Congress on Mass Customization and Personalization, Hong Kong, September 18-21, 2005. Proceedings, Advanced Manufacturing Institute, The Hong Kong I\University of Science and Technology.
- Loker, S., Ashdown, S.P., & Schoenfelder, K.A. 2005. Size specific analysis for body scan data to improve apparel fit. Journal of Textiles and Apparel, Management and Technology, 4(3), http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/
- Ashdown, S.P., Slocum, A. and Lee Y.A. 2005. The third dimension for apparel designers: Visual assessment of hat designs for sun protection using 3-D scan images, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 23 (3), 151-164.
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Progress 01/01/04 to 12/31/04
Outputs
We are developing methods for improving ready-to-wear sizing systems for the apparel industry. Using a database of 3D scans of women from a specific target market group (women 34 to 55 years of age), we conducted statistical analyses to identify misfit within size categories. We have identified sets of critical measurements for effective sizing and have applied them in the development of a mathematical model designed to determine appropriate changes to base patterns and grade rules to improve the sizing system. The scans provide objective measures of the target population that can be used to refine the traditional method of pattern and sizing system development based on one fit model, standard grade rules, and limited demographic information about the target market, such as age and income. Our procedure for developing a mathematical model to improve sizing systems can be applied to additional target markets and apparel products. We are also validating our sample of
women 34 to 55 years of age against an anthropometric survey of the population in collaboration with the Textile Clothing Technology Corporation [TC2], and will use this analysis to modify and improve the mathematical model. An additional study investigates body measurement variation related to different body positions. Scans have been taken of seated and standing subjects and of subjects with different arm and shoulder positions. Analysis of the data from these body scans is underway.
Impacts
Our research addresses the use of 3D body scan data to improve existing sizing systems for apparel companies. This has the potential to reduce returns for online and catalogue retailers and to improve sales for all apparel manufacturers. Body scan research can also contribute to other apparel uses of this technology including automated custom fit, size and fit prediction, virtual try-on, personal shopper services, co-design mass customization, and custom pattern development for home sewers.
Publications
- Loker, S., Ashdown, S. P., Cowie, L. & Schoenfelder K. A. 2004. Consumer interest in commercial applications of body scan data. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4,(1) www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue1/articles/Loker/ Loker_full_100_04.pdf
- Ashdown, S. P., Loker, S., Schoenfelder, K. A., & Lyman-Clarke, L. 2004. Using 3D scans for fit analysis. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 4,(1) www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue1/articles/Loker/Loker_full_103_04. pdf
- Lee, J. Y., Joo, S. Y., & Ashdown, S. P. 2004. A basic study contributes to extract the standardized 3D body data for women aged 60 and older. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 28(2), 1-10.
- Loker, S., Cowie, L.. S., Ashdown, S., & Lewis, V. D. 2004. Consumer reactions to body scanning. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22(4), 151-160.
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