Source: UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI submitted to
TEXTILE PRODUCTS RECYCLING: CURRICULUM DESIGN AND INSTRUCTIONAL DELIVERY SYSTEM
Sponsoring Institution
National Institute of Food and Agriculture
Project Status
TERMINATED
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
0196249
Grant No.
2003-38411-13432
Project No.
MOE-2003-04021
Proposal No.
2003-04021
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Program Code
ER.G1
Project Start Date
Aug 1, 2003
Project End Date
Jul 31, 2007
Grant Year
2003
Project Director
Hawley, J.
Recipient Organization
UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI
(N/A)
COLUMBIA,MO 65211
Performing Department
(N/A)
Non Technical Summary
Department of Textile and Apparel Management; College of Human Environmental Sciences; University of Missouri-Columbia (sub-contract from the School of Merchandising and Hospitality Management at the University of North Texas) The objective is to develop an interactive website on textile recycling that benefits a broad-based audience on textile recycling benefits and procedures. Multi-disciplinary curriculum modules will be developed with the ultimate goal of contributing to environmental sustainability by reiterating the principles of reduction, reuse, and recycling so that the flow of textile-based products to the landfills is dramatically reduced.
Animal Health Component
(N/A)
Research Effort Categories
Basic
(N/A)
Applied
100%
Developmental
(N/A)
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
90360993020100%
Goals / Objectives
Department of Textile and Apparel Management; College of Human Environmental Sciences; University of Missouri-Columbia (sub-contract from the School of Merchandising and Hospitality Management at the University of North Texas) The objective is to develop an interactive website on textile recycling that benefits a broad-based audience on textile recycling benefits and procedures. Multi-disciplinary curriculum modules will be developed with the ultimate goal of contributing to environmental sustainability by reiterating the principles of reduction, reuse, and recycling so that the flow of textile-based products to the landfills is dramatically reduced. Summary of benefits: The framework for this project is based on a micro-macro continuum that addresses each critical and integral part of the textile and apparel chain (e.g. from the consumer-based demand side, to the industry and policy-making supply-side). Each component along the continuum is an important player in the ultimate goal of reducing both pre- and post-consumer textile waste in the landfill. Thus, it becomes important for each player to become fully aware of the benefits and procedures for textile recycling. By developing an interactive, web-based delivery system we not only share important information about textile recycling to our proposed audience (higher education, communities, municipal solid waste managers, textile industry personnel), but we will also implement research that addresses the project goals and objectives using dynamic data collected on the web-site. This technique will allow for the most up-to-date textile recycling information. Micro Level: The Demand side. All consumers consume textile products, but few understand the range of possibilities for proper textile product disposal. Although many consumers engage in home recycling practices, few if any consider the recycle-ability of used textile products except in terms of donation to charity organizations. Additionally, solid-waste management officials must implement convenient methods for textile product recycling. Increased understanding of the reduction of consumption is also an important issue. Micro/Macro Interface: The Supply side. The textile recycling industry is over 70 years old, yet remains one of the least known and understood. Estimates show that the textile recycling industry annually removes 2.5 billion pounds of post-consumer textile product waste from the solid waste stream, yet these pounds represent less than 25% of the total post-consumable waste. Textile products are nearly 100% recyclable, and for-profit textile recycling companies have significantly developed viable markets for recycled textile products. Yet most municipalities do not consider textiles in their recycling efforts. Macro Level: Cultural and Global Systems For long-term environmental change to occur, broad economic and cultural changes are needed.
Project Methods
The instructional delivery system includes classroom teaching supported by an interactive website. The project team will consist of the project manager, Dr. Jana Hawley (University of Missouri), and faculty experts Drs. Youn Kyung-Kim, Pauline Sullivan, Judith Forney (University of North Texas, sub-contracted), and Dr. Pamela Norum, (University of Missouri). Graduate research assistants will also work on the project. Conceptual components will be developed for the website that include a (1) dynamic survey, (2) module-based core constructs, (3) hyperlinks to key websites, and (4) general overview of the textile recycling process. In the initial stage (stage 1), the team will define conditions, content, resources, and limitations of the project and will identify industry participants. Extensive market research, literature review, and dialogue with constituents will be done. The outcome will be concept boards showing the format for project production. In the planning stage (stage 2), results of stage 1 will be considered as templates are built for the website. Learning modules will be designed in a sequential presentation of core concepts. Web-based data collection will be developed based on Mann and Stewarts (2000) guidelines. Once initial templates are designed and a prototype is developed, the website will be beta-tested with focus groups before further development. Results of the focus group will be used to hone the website. All project personnel will be involved in development of concept boards, focus group research, and prototype development. Hawley and Norum will conduct interviews with solid waste managers. Stage 2 will be completed by end of the second quarter of year 1. In the development and testing stage (stage 3), the project team will focus on technical production, including transcription, video digitizing, lesson development, survey design, and programming. Once produced, the site will be placed on a server and again beta-tested. All project personnel will be involved with digital media development. Kim will secure distribution lists for the project, and will design the pedagogical format. Hawley will build templates, design graphics and develop imagery. Stage 3 will be completed by end of the second quarter, year 2. During distribution (stage 4), the website will be distributed to four public entities (1) programs of textiles and apparel listed in the Food and Agricultural Education Information System (n~100); interdisciplinary environmental science programs (n~100); University Outreach and Extension offices (n=68); and state economic development offices (n=50). Important constituents in the private sector will also be targeted for dissemination. All project personnel will be involved with each step of stage 4 and will be completed by end of the second year. For continuance (stage 5), informational and strategic updates will be managed by a graduate research assistant, overseen by the project team.

Progress 08/01/03 to 07/31/07

Outputs
In November 2003, the Principle Investigators met at the annual International Textile and Apparel meeting in Savannah, GA. Those present included Jana Hawley, Youn Kim, Pamela Norum, Pauline Sullivan, and graduate student Mary Ruppert. Judith Forney was unable to attend, but gave input both before and after the meeting. The project team made concept boards and plans for web development, web design, case study development, and survey development. Assignments were made to each member and are as follows: Jana Hawley, Project Director of Web Development, Director of qualitative Data collection and analysis. Directory of U of Missouri graduate assistants, Director of curriculum design and development. Contact liaison with industry and public sector. University of Missouri Extension Specialist with Textile Recycling line-item. Youn Kim developed survey, pre-tested survey, directed graduate assistant at U of Tennessee. Pauline Sullivan, case study development. Pam Norum, IRB submission and updates. Curriculum design and development. Judith Forney, consultant. Mary Ruppert graduate student, hired F03. Creative director, web design, develop templates, develop index pages. Elizabeth Lykken, graduate student hired W04 to solicit copyright approval and develop curriculum format for the website. Xiao Tong graduate student, hired F04 to develop content and upload content to website IRB approval has been granted for both the U of Missouri and the U of Tennessee. The IRB renewal was done in August 2004. Both mail and online surveys have been developed that will measure consumer attitudes, behaviors and understandings toward textile recycling. The survey was pre-tested with over 250 respondents and the survey was adjusted based on responses and feedback from the pre-test. The survey was distributed fall 2004 through both mail and online format. Web content was developed in the following areas: Information for college students, Information for K-12 students, Information for Policy makers, Information for Consumers, and Information for solid waste managers. Copyright permissions were gained for articles, pictures, and citations when necessary. Face-to-face interviews were conducted with municipal solid waste managers, textile recycling companies, power plant engineers, and educations. Data were recorded and analyzed. Case studies were written and uploaded for use in the collegiate curriculum. The website went active under a University of Extension server at the University of Missouri. The URL is extension.missouri.edu/textilerecycling. However, in July, 2007, the PI, Jana Hawley, took a position as Department head at Kansas State University and the project has not had direction since she left. However, the site is still live and a search at the University of Missouri website still yields textile recycling results. PRODUCTS: Online Textile Recycling curriculum has been developed and is available at http://extension.missouri.edu/textilerecycling/ OUTCOMES: The project team developed a survey that was sent to a national, randomized sample. The project team also developed a survey that was placed on the final textile recycling website. The team also worked with industry to develop textile recycling related polices and ideas. The project director presented lectures and keynote addresses at national and international conferences and served as a conference planner for a meeting on textile recycling in Kyoto, Japan. The PI also serves as a consultant for Wal-Mart on sustainability initiatives. Finally the PI developed a student driven project that resulted in the opening of a recycled clothing store and a textile recycling center in Boonville, MO. Since, that center has grown to recycle other products including glass, cardboard, aluminum, and paper. The center, Savvy Seconds, also serves the needs of challenged adult learners. DISSEMINATION ACTIVITIES: A website is live at http://extension.missouri.edu/textilerecycling/. This is the primary source of dissemination of the project. In addition, announcements about the project were made at the International Textile and Apparel Center. Now that Hawley is at Kansas State University, a similar dissemination of information can be found at http://www.k-state.edu/atid-sustainability/. FUTURE INITIATIVES: Future funding continues to be sought for ongoing project managements. Hawley now is an administrator at Kansas State University and others have moved on to other projects. Hawley works in a team environment on an AES Sustainability Research Project with 4 other K-State faculty and is also on the K-State Sustainability team. Her research continues. Other faculty on the team do not do textile recycling.

Impacts
The awareness of textile recycling is lacking, particularly for consumers. There is an ongoing need to share industry developments, consumer impact, and environmental impact. This project will help disseminate that information and make available curriculum for students, policymakers, and plans for solid waste managers.

Publications

  • Hawley, J. (Forthcoming, 2009). Researcher Highlights: Conclusions, implications, and recommendations for future studies. In Flynn, J. and I. Foster (Eds). Research Methods for the Fashion Industry. New York: Fairchild.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2008). The economic impact of dumping clothing. In C. Ulasewicz and J. Hethorn (Eds). Sustainable Fashion. Why Now New York: Fairchild.
  • Hawley, J. M. (November, 2007). Recycling Textiles: Going beyond the bin. White paper prepared for Resource Recycling, p. 31-33.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2006). Textile recycling: A systems perspective. In Y. Wang (Ed). Recycling in Textiles. Cambridge, England: Woodfield Publishing Press.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2007). From My Closet to Africa: The Dirt on Post-Consumer Recycling. In Future Fashion. New York: Earth Pledge. Hawley, J. M. , Sullivan, P. and Kim, Y. (2005). Recycled Textiles. In V. Steele (Ed.) Encyclopedia of Fashion. New York: Scribner and Sons.
  • Hawley, J.M. (April, 2008). Apparel Sustainability in the 21st Century: Making the right choices. Proceedings of the conference of the Eco-Design: A Global Paradigm Shift: Seoul, Korea. Available online.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2009). Understanding Textile Recycling from a Systems Perspective. In R. Blackburn (Ed.), Sustainable Textiles: Life Cycle and Environmental Impact. Cambridge, England: Woodhead Publishing Press.
  • Eckman, M., Littrell, M., Hawley, J.M., Boorady, L., Bastow-Shoop, H., Pederson, E., Evanston, S., (November, 2007). Fabric of Indian Life: Expanding Faculty International Expertise Through a Fulbright-Hays and ITAA Sponsored Group Project. Special topics session. Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Los Angeles: CA. Available online.
  • Brosdahl, D., Lehew, M., Hawley, J. M. (November, 2007). Sustainable Fashion: An Oxymoron or a Possible Future Teaching Strategies to Promote Consumer and Industry Sustainability Practices. Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Los Angeles: CA. Available online.
  • Eckman, M., Loker, S., Hawley, J. M., Lennon, S., Burns-Davis, L., Ogle, J., Rucker, M., Rudd, N., Damhorst. (November, 2007). Identifying student learning outcomes for social responsibility and sustainability. Special topics session. Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Los Angeles: CA. Available online.
  • Pookulangara, S., Hawley, J. M., Norum., P., Crustinger, C., Kim., Y.K., Shephard., A., (November, 2007). Graduate Programs: From Backpack to Briefcase. Special topics session. Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association, Los Angeles: CA. Available online.
  • Jolly, L., Lennon, S., Bastow-Shoop, H., Damhorst, M.L., Hawley, J., Hegland, J., Jasper, C., LeBat, K., Miller, N. J., Rees, K., Sternquist, B., & DeLong, M. (2006). Research Agenda 2010: Forging New Directions and Partnerships. In N. J. Owens (Ed.) Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association Meeting, San Antonio, TX . November 1-5, 2006. Monument, CO: ITAA: www.itaaonline.org/index2.html.
  • Jolly, L., Lennon, S., Bastow-Shoop, H., Damhorst, M.L., Hawley, J., NCCC-65, (2005, November). "USDA Funding Opportunities for Apparel and Merchandising Scholars" Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association. Alexandria, VA.
  • Sullivan, P., Hawley, J. M. and Dickson, M. (Coordinators). (November, 2003). ESRAB:Sustainable Development and Educators for Socially Responsible Apparel Business. [Published Abstract]. Proceedings for the International Textile and Apparel Association annual meeting Savannah, GA.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2006). Digging for diamonds: A conceptual framework for understanding reclaimed textile products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 24(3), 262-275.


Progress 10/01/03 to 09/30/04

Outputs
In November, 2003, the Principles Investigators met at the annual International Textile and Apparel meeting in Savannah, Georgia. Those present included Jana Hawley, Youn Kim, Pamela Norum, Pauline Sullivan, and graduate assistant, Mary Ruppert. Judith Forney was unable to attend the meeting, but gave input both before and after the meeting. The project team made concept boards and plans for web development, web design, case study development, and survey development. Assignments were made to each member and are as follows: Jana Hawley Project Director Director of Web Development Director of qualitative data collection and analysis Director of U of Missouri graduate assistants Director of curriculum design and development Contact liaison with industry and public sector University of Missouri Extension specialist with Textile Recycling line-item Youn Kim Developed survey Pre-tested Survey Directed graduate assistant at U of Tennessee Pauline Sullivan Case study development Pamela Norum IRB submission and updates Curriculum design and development Judith Forney Consultant Mary Ruppert Graduate student hired F03. Creative director: web design, development templates, develop index pages. Elizabeth Lykken, Graduate student hired W04 to solicit copyright approval and develop curriculum format for the website. Xiao Tong Graduate student, hired F04 to develop content and upload content to website IRB approval has been granted for both the University of Missouri and the University of Tennessee. The IRB renewal was done in August 2004. Both mail and online surveys have been developed that will measure consumer attitudes, behaviors and understandings toward textile recycling. The survey was pre-tested with over 250 respondents and the survey was adjusted based on responses and feedback from the pre-test respondents. The survey will be distributed Fall of 2004 through both mail and online format. Web content is being developed in the following areas: Information for College Students, Information for K-12 students, Information for policy makers, Information for Consumers, Information for solid waste managers. Copyright permissions have been sought for articles, pictures, and citations when necessary. Web development is ongoing and will be beta tested Fall of 2004. Face-to-face interviews have been conducted with municipal solid waste managers, textile recycling companies, power plant engineers, and educators. Data were recorded and are being analyzed. Case studies are being written that will be used in curriculum for the collegiate level. PRODUCTS: Online Textile Recycling curriculum is being developed. Server and URL have not been determined. OUTCOMES: The project team has developed a survey that will be sent to a national, randomized sample. The project team has developed a survey that will be placed on the final Textile recycling website. The project team has worked with industry in developing textile related policies and ideas. The project director has presented at national meetings on textile recycling. The project director has worked with University of Missouri OUtreach and Extension in developing outreach textile recycling projects. DISSEMINATION ACTIVITIES: The second year of the project will be the launch of the website. This will be the primary dissemination of the project. Announcements will be made at the annual International Textile and Apparel meeting in Portland Oregon, university outreach channels, and public educators once the project is launched. FUTURE INITIATIVES: Future funding will be sought for ongoing project management and development.

Impacts
The awareness of textile recycling is lacking and there is an ongoing need to share industry developments, consumer impact, and environmental impact. This project will help disseminate that information and make available curriculum for students, information for policymakers, and plans for solid waste managers.

Publications

  • Hawley, J. M., Kim, Y., and Sullivan, P. (2005, in press) Recycled Textiles. Encyclopedia of Fashion.
  • Hawley, J. M. (2005, in press). Digging for Diamonds: A Conceptual framework for Understanding Reclaimed Textile Products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal.
  • Hawley, J. M. (Presented May 10, 2004). Systems Analysis of Textile Recycling. Invited presentation at the 9th Annual Conference of Recycling of Fibrous Textile and Carpet Waste. Dalton, GA.