Source: UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA submitted to NRP
NEW TECHNOLOGIES FOR THE UTILIZATION OF TEXTILE MATERIALS
Sponsoring Institution
National Institute of Food and Agriculture
Project Status
COMPLETE
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
0193412
Grant No.
(N/A)
Cumulative Award Amt.
(N/A)
Proposal No.
(N/A)
Multistate No.
S-1002
Project Start Date
Oct 1, 2001
Project End Date
Sep 30, 2006
Grant Year
(N/A)
Program Code
[(N/A)]- (N/A)
Recipient Organization
UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA
(N/A)
LINCOLN,NE 68583
Performing Department
TEXTILES, CLOTHING & DESIGN
Non Technical Summary
Innovative textile materials for protective clothing and other household uses are needed to improve human health and safety. This project evaluates new textile materials developed for sun protective clothing and other household uses to help identify the best products for consumer use in terms of performance, health and environmental impact.
Animal Health Component
100%
Research Effort Categories
Basic
(N/A)
Applied
100%
Developmental
(N/A)
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
51151202000100%
Knowledge Area
511 - New and Improved Non-Food Products and Processes;

Subject Of Investigation
5120 - Textiles;

Field Of Science
2000 - Chemistry;
Goals / Objectives
A. To further develop and evaluate textile materials for sun protective clothing uses. Specifically, 1. To characterize the porosity of knitted fabrics in an effort to determine the upper threshold for knits to remain suitable for use in sun protective clothing. 2. To develop a predictive mathematical model for woven and knitted fabrics useful to textile manufacturers. B. To evaluate whether or not innovative batting and backing materials marketed to contemporary quilters retain acceptable performance properties following exposure to a variety of environmental conditions including accelerated light exposure, accelerated ageing, and accelerated laundering cycles.
Project Methods
A selection of knitted and woven fabrics produced to specification will be supplied by textile manufacturers in Spain through a collaborative relationship with textile engineers from the Institute for Textile Research of Terrassa, Polytechnic University of Catalonia. The fabrics will be characterized in terms of yarn construction, fabric count, weight, thickness, and porosity. Characterization of the fabrics will be conducted according to standardized textile test procedures. Porosity will be determined using image analysis. The transmission spectra of each textile will be recorded using a Cary 50 UV-Visible Spectrophotometer. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) for each material will be calculated. The data will be analyzed to achieve a predictive model that best represents the data and takes into account yarn size, fabric structure, fabric count, fabric weight and thickness. A selection of representative innovative batting materials recently marketed to quilters, including but not limited to fusible battings and fusible nonwovens for foundation quilting, will be evaluated in terms of resistance to light, resistance to ageing and durability to laundering. Light exposure will be conducted in increments of 80, 160, and 320 continuous AATCC Fading Units in a Weather-Ometer. Following light exposure and accelerated laundering, instrumental evaluation of color change (whiteness/yellowness index) will be measured on the fusible batting and nonwoven backing materials. Yellowing will be measured on white fabrics treated with marking pen ink. To evaluate the effects of accelerated aging upon the various battings and backing materials, as well as the fabrics treated with inks from the selected marking pens, a procedure based upon AATCC Test Method 26: Aging of Sulfur-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated (Alternate Oven Test Method) will be developed and followed. Specimens will be exposed to heat in an oven for 6h continuously. Specimens will be exposed to successive 6h exposure increments until visible color change is noted or until stiffness is perceived.

Progress 10/01/01 to 09/30/06

Outputs
The long term performance of a selection of innovative materials marketed to quilters was evaluated in this project because no published data concerning their long-term performance were available to quiltmakers. The adhesive-containing materials included fusible battings, fusible nonwovens, and quilt basting spray adhesives. A variety of marking pens used by quilters to mark quilting lines on their projects were also evaluated. Accelerated light and heat aging was carried out on the selected products to determine whether or not these commercial products contribute to discoloration or degradation over time. Results of this research show that fusible battings are the only commercial product acceptable for quilts intended as heirlooms or for museum collections. All adhesive sprays except one were associated with significant yellowing or strength losses following light and heat aging. Results also showed that use of marking pens resulted in significant discoloration unless removed by immersion in water at the completion of the quilting project. If so-called eraser pens were used to remove the marking pen marks, the eraser formulation left a residue that led to significant discoloration when quilt prototypes were subjected to accelerated heat or light aging. This suggests that quilters should use marking pens only if they immediately launder or soak in water their newly completed quilts.

Impacts
Results of this project led to the reformulation of at least two of the popular spray adhesives marketed to quilters and textile artists. The results have been widely disseminated in the popular press, on internet discussion groups and have influenced quilters practices and enabled them to make informed choices. Many quilters now avoid the use of spray adhesives and marking pens in quilts intended as heirlooms for family members.

Publications

  • No publications reported this period


Progress 10/01/04 to 09/30/05

Outputs
Two new formulations of Sullivans popular spray adhesive were evaluated in terms of light and heat ageing and compared to two other commercially available spray adhesive products (Sulky's and Spray and Fix) marketed to quilters to eliminate time-consuming hand basting. Both cotton and polyester battings were evaluated; the battings included a needle-punched cotton, and three types of polyester batting -- needle-punched, resin-bonded and thermal-bonded. Treated specimens were exposed to 40 AFUs of xenon light exposure or to 6 and 36 hours of accelerated heat ageing followed by a home laundering treatment (none or one). Changes in color and breaking strength were evaluated. Results showed that Spray and Fix treated specimens exhibited the least yellowing following the accelerated light and heat ageing. One of the Sullivans formulations performed as well as the Spray and Fix in terms of yellowing, but it had very poor adhesive properties. The other Sullivans reformulation was associated with significant yellowing of the aged specimens. Laundered specimens exhibited more yellowing than unlaundered specimens, which indicates that home laundering will not mitigate the undesirable long term effects of the spray adhesive products.

Impacts
Results of this project led to the reformulation of at least two of the popular spray adhesives marketed to quilters and textile artists. The results have been widely disseminated and have influenced quilters practices and enabled them to make informed choices.

Publications

  • Evenson, J. and Crews. P.C. Spring 2005. The effects of light exposure and heat-aging on selected quilting products containing adhesives. Journal of the American Institute for Conservation, 44(1):27-38.
  • Hustvedt, G. and Crews, P.C. 2005. The ultraviolet protection factor of naturally-pigmented cotton. Journal of Cotton Science, 9:47-55.
  • Takamura, E., Yoshizumi, K., and Crews, P.C. 2005. PhotoYellowing and PhotoBleaching of Silk and Wool Fabrics Under Monochromatic and Multichromatic Light Radiation. 2005 American Institute for Conservation Textile Specialty Group Postprints, Vol. 15.


Progress 10/01/03 to 09/30/04

Outputs
Completed another laboratory phase of this project examining the effects of laundering and heat ageing on cotton and polyester battings treated with three adhesive sprays marketed to quilters to eliminate time-consuming hand basting. The battings included a variety of types including needlepunched cotton, needle punched polyester, resin-bonded polyester and a thermal bonded polyester. Treated specimens were exposed to 6 and 36 hours of accelerated heat ageing in a forced air oven and to 0 and one home laundering. Laundering was included to determine whether or not laundering could remove the adhesive and thereby mitigate some of the negative effects that occur with ageing. Following laundering and heat ageing, changes in color and breaking strength were evaluated. Statistical analysis of the results is underway. Focused efforts this year on disseminating results of research completed in earlier years including manuscript preparation and final editing for publication.

Impacts
Results of this project that focused on adhesive-containing quilting products has led to the reformulation of at least one of these adhesive-containing products for quilters. In addition, when an article about this research was published in Quilter's Newsletter Magazine (circulation 250,000) the information reached the intended consumers. This allows quiltmakers to make informed decisions about whether or not to use such products in their quilts and allows museum curators and collectors to make informed decisions about whether or not to purchase quilts containing these products for their collections. The other major thrust of this research project may expand the market for naturally-colored cottons among consumers who seek environmentally-friendly products of all sorts, as well as skin cancer survivors, mountain climbers and extreme sports enthusiasts who seek sun protective clothing.

Publications

  • KIM, J., STONE, J., CREWS, P., SHELLEY II, M., and HATCH, K.. (2004, December). Improving knit fabric UPF using consumer laundry products: A comparison of results using two instruments. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 33(2):141-158.
  • CREWS, P.C. & ZHOU, Y. (2004, August). The effect of wetness on the UVR transmission of woven fabrics. AATCC Review (American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorist) 4(8):41-43.
  • ALGABA, J., RIVA, A. & CREWS, P.C. (2004, February). Influence of fiber type and fabric porosity on the ultraviolet protection factor of summer fabrics. AATCC Review (American Association of Textile Chemist and Colorist ) 4(2):26-31.
  • EVENSON, J. and P.C. CREWS. 2004.The Effects of Accelerated Heat and Light Ageing on Textiles Marked with Fabric Marking Pens. 2004 AIC Textile Specialty Group Postprints, Vol. 14.
  • HUSTVEDT, G. and P.C. CREWS. 2004. The Ultraviolet Transmission Properties of Naturally Colored Cotton. 2004 Proceedings of the Beltwide Cotton Conference.


Progress 10/01/02 to 09/30/03

Outputs
Determined the UVR transmission and UPF values of tan, brown and green naturally-colored cotton fabrics and compared them to conventional cotton. Results showed that naturally-colored cottons exhibit much higher UPF values than unbleached conventional cotton. All naturally-colored cottons had UPF values above 15, the minimum UPF value to qualify for labeling as sun protective according to ASTM guidelines set forth in ASTM D 6603: Guide to Labeling of UV Protective Textiles. Furthermore, naturally-colored cottons retained their ultraviolet protection properties following 80 AFUs of light exposure. A niche market exists for naturally-colored cottons among consumers who seek environmentally-friendly products of all sorts. Since naturally-colored cottons afford better ultraviolet protection than conventional cotton, they offer an alternative fiber for another growing niche market -- that of sun protective clothing for skin cancer survivors, mountain climbers and extreme sports enthusiasts. Completed a study examining the effects of light and ageing on selected adhesive-containing materials marketed to quiltmakers, including spray adhesives, fusible webs and fusible battings. Specimens were exposed to 40 and 80 AFUs of light and 6 and 36 hours of accelerated ageing. Following light exposure and ageing, changes in color, strength and stiffness were measured. Results showed that fusible battings were the only commercial products that appear acceptable for quilts intended as heirlooms or for museum collections. All adhesive sprays, except one, were associated with significant yellowing or strength losses following both shorter and longer periods of ageing and light exposure. Selected fusible webs performed acceptably for quilts intended to last for ten to twenty years (ie. did not yellow, stiffen or weaken significantly more than the control during 6 hours ageing and 40 AFUs light exposure), but could not be recommended for quilts intended as heirlooms or art quilts offered for sale to collectors or museums (ie. yellowed, stiffened and/or weakened significantly following 36 hours of ageing or 80 AFUs light exposure). A museum curator or knowledgeable collector does not want to pay thousands of dollars for a quilt that has a lifespan of only 20 years.

Impacts
This research may expand the market for naturally-colored cottons among consumers who seek environmentally-friendly products of all sorts, as well as skin cancer survivors, mountain climbers and extreme sports enthusiasts who seek sun protective clothing. Results of a second phase of this project provides information about adhesive-containing quilting products that allows quiltmakers to make informed decisions about whether or not to use such products in their quilts and allows museum curators and collectors to make informed decisions about whether or not to purchase quilts containing these products for their collections. The results of this research also is likely to lead to reformulation of some of these adhesive-containing products for quilters.

Publications

  • Crews, P. and Zhou, Y. 2003. The effect of fabric wetness on the UVR Transmission of woven fabrics. AATCC Review 3 (8): 44.
  • Yoshizumi, K., Harada, H. and Crews, P. 2003. Effects of ultraviolet and visible radiation on the fading of natural and synthetic dyes. AATCC Review, 3(8): 46.
  • Evenson, J. 2003. The Effects of Accelerated Ageing and Light on Selected Contemporary Quilting Materials. Ph.D. Diss., University of Nebraska-Lincoln.
  • Yoshizumi, K. and Crews, P.C. 2003. Characteristics of fading of wool coth ded with slected ntural destuffs on the bsis of solar radiation energy. Dyes and Pigments 58: 197-204.
  • Evenson, J. and Crews, P.C. 2003. The effects of light and ageing on selected quilting products containing adhesives. American Institute for Conservation Textile Specialty Group Postprints (In press).
  • Hustvedt, G. 2003. The Effect of Xenon Light Exposure Followed by Laundering on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor of Dyed or Naturally Colored Cotton. Masters Thesis, University of Nebraska-Lincoln.


Progress 10/01/01 to 09/30/02

Outputs
A selection of representative innovative batting materials marketed to quilters, including marking pens, spray adhesives, as well as fusible battings and fusible nonwovens, have been identified for preliminary trials and evaluation in terms of yellowing, stiffness, and strength changes following exposure to artificial light, heat (simulated ageing) and accelerated laundering. The research design has been finalized in consultation with a statistician. Preliminary testing is underway.

Impacts
Results of this research will inform quilters and manufacturers of products used by quilters about the future performance of these products and possible conservation concerns pertaining to them. Museum curators, collection managers and textile conservators will find the results of this study helpful in the care and conservation of their collection.

Publications

  • Algaba,I., Riva,A., and Crews, P. 2002. Influence of Fiber Type and Fabric Porosity on the Ultraviolet Protection Factor Provided by Summer Fabrics. AATCC Review 2:42.