Progress 12/30/07 to 12/30/08
Outputs
OUTPUTS: The study has developed into two distinct positions, one empirical the other theoretical. Prefixed masculinity is fraught with contradictions and inequalities, further masculinity holds the aspirations for a genius that is divided by a labyrinth of perspectives. The positions consider men's contemporary fashions in regard to power hierarchies, social division and restrictions induced by class designations and codes of attire promoted by the professions. Perspectives come from the very foundation of social division. Research has been conducted with various populations, although new interest include, surf cultures and ethnic urban groups. PARTICIPANTS: Van Dyk Lewis, Cornell University Eun Jung Kang, Cornell University TARGET AUDIENCES: The research targets the menswear fashion industries. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.
Impacts
Fundamental aspects of menswear are derived from ruling class uniforms. The legacy provides a stark contrast to the imprint of new uniforms fixed by race, sexual orientation, geography and financial prowess. Uniforms are apt for men's Fashions that have relative if not stoic primacy. They (uniforms) have become loaded with meaning and recumbent with some notion of masculinity. Presentations: Masculine singular, University of Falmouth, England,(2008), Symbols of self: fashion and masculinity Smithsonian, Washington, USA,(2008)
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 10/01/06 to 09/30/07
Outputs
OUTPUTS: Report of the third year of the Cornell NTC Masculinities Study General Aims The first was to detail the shopping habits of men; the second was to consider whether mismatches exist between fashion advertising and perceived images of American men's fashion by consumers. Third year proposal ambitions, 1 Analyze design probes sent to designers (Ongoing) 2 Contact fashion image makers (Ongoing) 3 Plot purchasing decisions of personal buyers (Ongoing) Methods Two methods were used to interrogate both types of participants; those participating in fashion image making and consumers of menswear. Tools Interviews and ethnographic reconnaissance. We have undertaken design research, this required close collaboration with image makers, to these ends we sent "probes" to images makers and interviewed a cross-section of consumers aged 18-30 and living in states with large metropolitan centers. Probes These were designed to be interactive, to provide inspiration of participants and
simultaneously provide feedback. Probes contained various items that image makers were expected to make selections from; these included color chips, fabrics, and images from popular and underground fashion magazines. Descriptors of masculinity, taxonomies of popular male subgroups and current descriptors of the season's fashion trends. Currently we are producing a second version of the probe in order that poignant creative responses are gathered from creatives. Creative fashion designers are asked to provide insight to the thinking and operations behind the visual outcomes such as fashion editorials, advertisings and fashion shows.
PARTICIPANTS: Individuals: Van Dyk Lewis - Assistant Professor Eun Jung Kang - Graduate Student Christine Wong - Undergraduate Student Abbey Liebman - undergraduate Student Collaborators: Levis Dockers
TARGET AUDIENCES: The target audience is the American apparel industry.
Impacts
Consumers Consumers have been interviewed and shadowed in an effort to discover their shopping habits. Overwhelmingly, fit not fashion is confirmed as the dominant article the decision making process, for many respondents "good fit" acts as the first rung towards fashionably. Even with distinct sub cultural groups fit is important. Participants were found to use fit in pursuit of image. We found that the masculine image is a personal construct; very few respondents commented that editorials or advertising had knowingly influenced their fashion selections. However many respondents articulated good knowledge of the men's fashion, in particular respondents tended to have specialist knowledge about a few brands that are relevant to the respondents appearance. Respondents commented that masculinity was more evident in fictional characters, James Bond was ranked highest. Celebrity actors that play tough action man roles and celebrities who make a living from doing dangerous
things also rank highly. James Bond was also the most influential fashion figure, while fashion designers were the most influential fashion occupation. Participant Observation We found that 98% of internet shopping was for popular, accessible brands, not designer brands. Further, respondents tended to shop for American brands. The sample revealed that 66.7% of the respondents classified themselves as dressing in a similar way to friends and family. These responses have helped to structure our current focus: we are considering thematics present in American menswear and imported and homegrown designer trends. Some work will be done on the interiors and ambiance of mens' emporia and online sites, and packaging as these relate to nations of masculinity. Further we are considering two extreme if oppositional forms of masculinity for an in-depth ethnography. A paper that considers men's fashion is being written, * Cultural image * Dialectic links images to designs * Patterning semiotic
links between the photographic image and clothes
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 01/01/06 to 12/31/06
Outputs
In deciding how to uncover what divisions and categories to apply, the study was approached via A distinct path. The aim was to find out how divisions are made from the perspective of the media, designers and wearers. For this we created the design probe. The probe differs from the questionnaire. The probe questions visual stimuli and trend acuity, it does this by interrupting the routine of design, and delving into the conception of process. Connecting with gate keepers. Design probes have been constructed and sent to menswear design gatekeepers. The methodological ambition of the Design Probe project is to uncover methods of reconnaissance and intervene directly with design thinking. We classify design in the broadest sense; design represents any visioning activity that contributes to an apparel image. Therefore, the roles of designer, fashion stylist, retail buyer, and fashion wearers are central to the process of design. Reconnaissance of images During a one-year
period, from 2005 until 2006 the Cornell research group examined images from over 100 men's fashion and life style magazines. As a result, we felt that the categories of traditionalism, sensualism, adventure, and conservatism were a poor fit. After several manifestations, four categories emerged as spacious enough to contain human fashion expressions, garment style and the character of American masculinity.
Impacts
The Design Probe is conditioned in the Saussurean tradition; both the production and analysis require an interpretation distinct to the obvious referential sequencing. The task of analysis is to set out the oppositions, conditions, and differences of selections so that an overview might be established. The differentiation of selections will provide data about the framing of masculinity in market oppositions as view by high fashion, urban fashion, and traditional producers (insiders) of fashion. In some way these selections are already posited within the Fashions produced by these insider designers.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05
Outputs
Ethnographies/videographies of male shopping trips will be conducted in representative areas of the U.S., in order to analyze actual decision-making processes and variables considered (e.g., fabric, garment style, label information, wardrobe compatibility) in the selection of apparel products.
Impacts
The impact of this part of the research will be: 1. To guide the second part of the research mentioned above. 2. To provide a understanding of how fashion / trend leadership functions. 3. To use these findings to manner discussion of how fashion tendencies are researched and promoted.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 01/01/04 to 12/31/04
Outputs
The conclusion of this part of the research has been completed. Findings show that through their ability to cut, match, bond, and decorate and destroy, clothes designers and creative fashion wearers both making declarative their innermost complexes, rather than follow the topography proposed by the fashion media. The connection of rhizomatic collectives and structures of circulation and exchanges are found to be more important criteria for innovation. Findings will be published in 2005.
Impacts
The impact of this part of the research will be: 1. To guide the second part of the research mentioned above. 2. To provide a understanding of how fashion / trend leadership functions. 3. To use these findings to manner discussion of how fashion tendencies are researched and promoted.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 01/01/03 to 12/31/03
Outputs
Fieldwork, which included deep interviews with a sample of consumers, has been completed. The aim of this part of the study is to understand some of the linkages between consumers and the media, in relation to the way fashion trends are developed. Two researchers have completed this part of the work. Analysis is currently being prepared. Initial findings support the hypothesis that consumers exhibit a good deal of independence in their dress. The fashion media is less successful in introducing new ideas than are the direct pronouncements of the retailers and personal sources associated to the consumer. The second part is the study, which is focused upon the creators of fashion trends, is about to commence.
Impacts
The impact of this part of the research will be: 1. To guide the second part of the research mentioned above. 2. To provide a understanding of how fashion / trend leadership functions. 3. To use these findings to manner discussion of how fashion tendencies are researched and promoted.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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Progress 01/01/02 to 12/31/02
Outputs
Approval for funding commenced on October 10 2002. Consequently it is too earlier to report on findings. Preliminary ideas are being investigated and include an examination into extant literature; tentative findings show that where literature exists there is a lack of theoretical depth applied to the assimilation and reconciliation of fashion image and fashion trend.
Impacts
This part of the research will add knowledge about the triumvirate of fashion, trend and consumption. Its impact will be on the theoretical reading of fashion and in practical terms, the research will provide an understanding of how consumers of fashion media are affected by the contents of magazines.
Publications
- No publications reported this period
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