Progress 10/01/01 to 09/30/06
Outputs
Progress in the last year has focused on analyzing fit problems for adult women and a comparison of perceptions of body size and clothing understanding factors important in clothing decisions for tween girls. Fit perceptions as they relate to body build and shape are important in perfecting patterns for apparel that fits as the consumer expects.Using a large sample (529) of adult women, we looked at fourteen areas of fit problems indicated by women in a self reported questionnarie and computed that against Body Build, Body Shape and Posture defined by 3D body scans of each individual and based on analysis by the BSAS. Statistically significant relationships were found between Total Fit Problems and Body Build and Body Shape. Average build respondents reported fewer fit problems supporting the notion that apparel available in the marketplace is made to an average figure. However, only 303 females in the sample were of average body build leaving a significant proportion
of the population who cannot find a good fit for apparel in the current market. We found a significant relationship between fit problems and body shape components including Hip Shape, Bust Shape and Back Curvature. There were significant differences between fit problems reported by respondents identified as having a high or low hip. Respondents with a Prominent Bust were significantly different from respondents with an Average or Flat Bust. They reported the greatest number of fit problems. There were no significant differences between fit problems reported by Hourglass, Pear Shaped, and Rectangular body shapes. Though patterns used to produce ready to wear are based on an Hourglass body shape, the Hourglass shapes in this study reported fit problems. Approximately 65 percent of the respondents had to alter ready to wear to obtain the desired fit. Body size is a factor in how women view themselves and how they relate to apparel. To understand how tween girls and their mothers view
clothing decisions when divided into categories based on BMI of the tweens, we found that all girls reported comfort and fit as a more important factor than their mothers. Wearng the latest fashions and what friends would be wearing was less important to the girls than their mothers' perceived. Fewer differences between mothers and daughters were found for normal than plus size girls. Our studies indicate that the plus size market for American females of all ages is becoming more important and that there is a dearth of apparel which fits these body sizes. This is especially true for the pant category. Over the life of the project we have developed the BSAS (Body Shape Assessment Scale) and applied it to define the relationship between body size, body shape, and fit for apparel for adult females. We are in the process of developing a body shape assessment for young females which can be used to define body shape and size for understanding sizing and fit issues.
Impacts
Over the life of this project, the research documents the physical and social-psychological impact of body size and shape for adult and adolescent females with reference to apparel product development. The impact of the project is that we have developed a body shape and size classification system, BSAS, for women and are in the process of building a similar system for adolescent females. The importance of the BSAS is that it identifies body characteristics such as shape (Hourglass, Rectangular, Inverted Triangle, Pear shape), size, and body components using 3D body scans. The tool can be used to classify these factors in a sample of body scans. We are beginning to understand how the factors of body size and shape impact the product development process. In addition, we archive a large number of female body scans ranging in age from 9-69 and continue to conduct research on anthropmometric dimensions relative to apparel pattern development for the adult and tween female
market. Beyond body measurements, fit preference is an important factor in clothing decisions. We have developed a tool to measure fit preferences of adult females. The tool can be used to determine fit preferences for various garment categories i.e. jackets, pants, etc. We work very closely with industry to disseminate results of the research. The project has resulted in numerous theses, dissertations, presentations, and publications.
Publications
- Pisut, G. and Connell, L.J. (Summer 2007) Fit Preferences of Female Consumers in the U.S. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management.
- Connell, L.J., Ulrich, P.V., Brannon, E. L., Alexander, M., and Presley, A.B. (2006). Body shape assessment scale: Instrument development for analyzing female figures. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(2), 80-95.
- Lee, S. Ulrich, P.V. and Connell, L.J. (2006). Body Image Perceptions of Adolescent Daughters and Their Mothers in the U.S. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(12): 1714-1722.
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Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05
Outputs
Tween girls between the ages of 9 and 14 were studied using a series of four focus groups with the girls and their mothers. Groups were divided into younger tweens (9-11) and older tweens (12-14),and categorized by body mass index (BMI) as normal or plus-size. There were four groups in all: younger plus-size tweens, older plus-size tweens, younger normal-size tweens and older normal-size tweens. Mothers of the girls were divided into groups according to the category of their daughter and participated in separate focus groups. From a questionnaire administered to both mothers and daughters, we derive an indication of differences within these groups. Findings indicate that there were statistical differences between plus size daughters' self identification and their mothers' identification of their daughters body image. Mother saw their daughters as larger than the daughters saw themselves. Plus size girls were significantly more dissatisfied with their bodies than
normal size girls. Over all groups mothers were the strongest influence in helping daughters decide what clothes to buy. Friends were influential in the decision of what clothes to wear. When tween girls clothing decision factors were explored, the top three factors tween girls considered with purchasing clothing were fit followed by clothes that looked the best on them and clothes that were comfortable. When asked about being able to find clothing that they would choose to wear, nearly 30 percent indicated that they could not find dress up clothing when shopping. Plus size girls indicated significantly more clothing deprivation than normal size girls. Stores that appeal universally to girls in all age and size categories are: Wal-mart, Target, Old Navy, Kohls and JC Penney. Other stores such as Wet Seal, Gap and Dillards were also successful in meeting most of the apparel needs for these consumers. The data also indicated the striking comparison of stores where the normal-size girls
shop and plus-size girls wish they could shop. Stores such as Pac Sun, Limited Too, Hollister, Delias, American Eagle, Aeropostle, Abercrombie and Abercrombie and Fitch were all mentioned as cool stores in the minds of these consumers. However, only the normal-size tweens were able to actually shop and purchase goods at these stores. Plus-size tweens associated themselves with similar corporate identities to that of their normal-size counterparts but were not successful in shopping these venues. There are unmet fit, styling and sizing needs which would have to be overcome in order for them to do so. Even though the tweens would like to shop in these stores, the shopping experiences described by both the mothers and daughters was extremely negative due to the fact that the plus-size tweens could not meet their need in the same way as their normal-sized counterparts. Tweens associate themselves with similar brands such as Wet Seal, Old Navy, Gap, Abercrombie and Mudd. Though the tweens
may have viewed shopping in stores such as Abercrombie as a negative experience, it is worth noting how positively they viewed the brand as a desirable attribute.
Impacts
This research investigates the physical and social-psychological dimensions of demand for apparel by tween girls (aged 9-14), particularly the growing niche market of those who are overweight and obese. Sizing options for female adolescents are not based on any current anthropomorphic data that reflects the body size and shape changes driven by puberty. Tweens are regarded as a significant market. The research team explored the physical and psychological characteristics of young females ages 9-14 who are overweight or obese in comparison to their normal weight peers. The familial link of influence of mothers was explored. The research looked at the market potential for developing apparel products for this niche market and explored sizing categories within this age range. The research has provided apparel designers and product developers, marketing personnel, and retail executives with information about this niche market with respect to body shape, sizing and fit
problems, and clothing needs and wants. Better understanding of size and body shape and the related social and psychological issues will lead to identification of market voids providing apparel to match the bodies and clothing preferences of this age range. Representatives from 30 major apparel companies reviewed information from the research project.
Publications
- Lee, S., Ulrich, P.V., Connell, L.J. 2005. Body image perceptions of mothers and their adolescent daughters. Proceedings of the International Textile and Apparel Association. http://www.itaaonline.org/template.asp?intPageId=95
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Progress 01/01/04 to 12/31/04
Outputs
Alabama ranks near the top of the CDC's list of states with populations having critical numbers of overweight and obese individuals. This presents not only a health crisis, but also market disparity. Females who are overweight or obese are less likely to be able to find appropriatly fitted apparel in the marketplace. The focus of this year's work has been on analyzing body measurements and perceptions of sizing and fit for overweight and obese women using 3-D body scans and survey data. Two samples of subjects (19-65) were analyzed. Sample one consisted of a convenience sample of 529 body scans from (TC)2, Clarity Technology, Cornell University, and Nottingham Trent University: overweight (n=108 women, 22.5% of the 529) and obese (n=82 women, 17.1% of the 529). A second sample of 510 overweight and obese females from Size USA, a [TC]2 national sizing project which collected anthropometric data using 3-D body scans was also analyzed. Profiles indicated that overweight
and obese women have major fitting problems. Over 40%, as compared with 20% of the average size population, reported major fit problems with 7-10 problems reported by over half of Sample 1. Overweight and obese women were equally distributed across Sample 2 in terms of age. The pear shaped body was the predomint body shape in both samples. The mean weight for overweight women was 158 pounds and 202 pounds for obese women. A majority of these women fell into the petite height category. Measurements for overweight women were 39.5 inches, 33 inches, and 42 inches for bust, waist, and hips. Obese women measured 45.5 inches, 39.5 inches, and 47.5 inches for bust, waist, and hips. When comparing mean body measurements reported by these participants to vendor averages and ASTM D 5586-95 standards, none of them matched a consistent size designation, for example, a size 8, which supported research that indicates that over half of the female population cannot find apparel that fits. This
research indicates that foundational slopers for overweight/obese women should be based on pear and rectangular shapes rather than the current hourglass figure. In addition to the work with overweight/obese women, this project is also examining sizing and fit for the tween apparel market. Tweens are the group of young females ages 9-14. We conducted focus groups, survey information and body scan data for normal and plus-sized tweens and their mothers. We are in the process of analyzing that data to understand sizing issues for normal and plus-size tweens.
Impacts
This project has developed a software program, the Body Shape Assessment Scale, to analyze 3-D body scan data for the female figure. The program allows researchers to understand scan data beyond measurements and defines body shape. The BSAS has been used with multiple samples including overweight and obese women to define whole and component body shapes of females. A better understanding of body shape relative to age and height can help apparel product developers develop apparel that fits female shapes in the current market. In the general population, the Pear Shape (45.4%) was the predominate shape followed by the Hourglass (33.6%) and Rectangle (15.7%). As women gain weight, the rectanglar shape becomes more prominent. Research showed that the Body Build scale in the BSAS is highly correlated with the current standards for Body Mass Index (BMI) in the U. S. In exploring the relationship between whole and component body shape hip shape was found to be the single most
important factor that determines the body build of a person. Women with an average body build were more likely to have a low or mid-hip level while women with a heavy build were likely to have a straight or high hip level. When viewing body shape in relation to body cathexis, fit problems reported, and clothing benefits sought, significant relationships between total fit problems and body build, body shape, hip shape, bust shape and back curvature were noted. No significant relationships were found between total fit problems and shoulder slope, buttocks prominence, and posture.
Publications
- Connell, L.J., Ulrich, P.V., Brannon, E.B., Alexander, M. and Presley, A.B. (2005). Body Shape Assessment Scale: Instrument Development for Analyzing Female Figures. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal.
- Alexander, M. and Connell, L.J. Fit preferences of college aged females. (2005). International Journal of Clothing and Textile Science.
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Progress 01/01/03 to 12/31/03
Outputs
The Body Shape Analysis Scale (BSAS) developed in this project allows a researcher to evaluate a complex set of body shape variations to explore how body shape interacts with demographic and psychographic characteristics to understand fit preferences for specific target markets of female consumers. This project developed the Body Shape Analysis Scale (BSAS) based on the evaluation of the female figure by teams of experts in female body shape analysis for use in pattern developmentfor apparel. Body shapes were initially developed using a group of 42 female body scans to identify variances from a core figure representing an hourglass standard fit model from which patterns for target markets in women's wear are developed. The final scale is a guide which consists of silhouette drawings based on 3-D body scans for nine figure scales which can be used by individuals to assess female body build, body shape, posture, hip shape, front torso shape, buttocks prominence, back
curvature, and shoulder slope, and bust prominence. A team of five experts, two participant researchers and three external experts on pattern-making and fit, were identified to use the BSAS to rate 100 scans provided by TC2. To enhance inter-rater reliability, the external experts were asked to train on the BSAS. Ten scans from the original sample of 40 were selected to present a range of shape characteristics, and each expert was asked to independently rate the scans and to evaluate the BSAS manual for usability. As a result, slight adjustments were made to BSAS images and instructions. Experts' ratings of the 100 scans provided the data needed to train the BMS software developed by TC2 to apply the BSAS to body scan evaluation. All cases of 100 percent agreement on ratings were used to replicate experts' assessments within the BMS readings. When the BMS re-design was completed, the agreement rate between the experts' ratings and the BMS ratings ranged from 66 to 88 percent. All but
two of the sub-scales (Back Curvature at 66 percent and Posture at 67 percent) replicated the experts' ratings at least 70 percent of the time. After the BSAS was developed with a strong level of reliability, it was used to sort body scan data based on whole and component body shapes. For each individual scanned, researchers also collected data on body cathexis (how women feel about their bodies), how women prefer categories of apparel (jeans, pants, jackets, dresses) to fit their bodies, what benefits women seek from clothing (figure flaw compensation, sex appeal, fashion innovation, and fashion Image), where women prefer to shop, areas where fit problems exist, and other basic demographic information. Body scan data tells a patternmaker the basic body measurements of any individual. In order for patterns to fit the human body, they must incorporate ease to allow for body movement and ease that forms the unique style of each garment silhouette. The purpose of the additional
information including body cathexis, fit preference, and clothing benefits sought is to inform patternmakers how to incorporate ease into garments that maintains the fit desired by a target market of consumers.
Impacts
A data set of 529 body scans using the BSAS to define whole and component body shapes of females indicated that the majority of the sample had an Average Body Build (57.3%). The next largest category was Full Body Build (27.4%).The Pear Shape (45.4%) was the predominate shape followed by the Hourglass (33.6%) and Rectangle (15.7%). Research showed that the Body Build scale in the BSAS is highly correlated with the current standards for Body Mass Index (BMI) in the U. S. In exploring the relationship between whole and component body shape hip shape was found to be the single most important factor that determines the body build of a person. Women with an average body build were more likely to have a low or mid-hip level while women with a heavy build were likely to have a straight or high hip level. When viewing body shape in relation to body cathexis, fit problems reported, and clothing benefits sought, significant relationships between total fit problems and body
build, body shape, hip shape, bust shape and back curvature were noted. No significant relationships were found between total fit problems and shoulder slope, buttocks prominence, and posture.
Publications
- Alexander, M., Connell, L., Presley, A. (2004). Fit preference of college aged females. Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, March.
- Alexander, M.(2004) Applying three-dimensional body scanning technologies to body shape analysis. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Auburn University, Auburn, AL.
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Progress 01/01/02 to 12/31/02
Outputs
Project goals include the following processes: Goal 1: To analyze body scan data from women 19-55 relative to body shape, posture, and weight to develop body shape analysis standards. Primary project work has been done in this area. Using body scan data, experts have developed a Body Shape Assessment Scalec (BSAS). The figure assessment scale for the female figure consists of nine separate assessment scales. Scales include four scales to assess a front scan view of the female figure including body build, body shape, hip shape and shoulder slope. Five scales use a side scan view to assess front torso shape, buttocks shape, back curvature, posture, and bust prominence. A team of five experts have used these scales to assess 100 body scans of females to test validity and reliability in the use of the scales. Goal 2: To produce an intelligent system based on expert analysis which can be used to analyze body scans as a basis for realigning sizing and pattern development
for specific target markets. Researchers have begun work with TC2 to learn a software program for shape analysis. Body scans with specific body shapes identified by the panel of experts will be used as the basis for training shape analysis software to sort subsequent body scan data body according to parameters set in the BSAS. TC2 Body Shape Software will be used to set body parameters and proceed with body shape analysis of an additional 400 scales. Training of the software using expert data obtained from the BSASc is in process. Goal 3:To develop virtual fit models and slopers based on body shapes and posture occurring in the population to enhance the fit of mass produced women's apparel. This goal, the development of virtual fit models, will require data obtained in Goal 2 and will occur after the body shape analysis.
Impacts
Body shape analyis software used with 3-D body scans will help product developers discover and better fit target markets. Patterns will be designed that more accurately reflect broader body shape groups, like a rectangular shape, which is not fit by the hourglass pattern shapes currently used by industry. Since fit is the primary reason that women do not buy a garment, better fit will help apparel related companies with sales.
Publications
- Connell, L.J., Brannon, E.L., and Ulrich, P.V. ( 2002). A consumer driven model for mass customization in the apparel market. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 6(3), 240-258.
- Pisut, G.(2001). Fit preferences of female consumers relative to body shape, body cathexis, clothing benefits sought, and fit problems: A national study. Disseertation, Auburn University, Auburn, AL.
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