Source: SOUTHERN UNIV submitted to NRP
IMPROVEMENT OF KENAF YARN FOR APPAREL APPLICATIONS
Sponsoring Institution
National Institute of Food and Agriculture
Project Status
COMPLETE
Funding Source
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
0183181
Grant No.
99-38814-8219
Cumulative Award Amt.
(N/A)
Proposal No.
1999-04195
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Project Start Date
Sep 15, 1999
Project End Date
Sep 30, 2004
Grant Year
1999
Program Code
[(N/A)]- (N/A)
Recipient Organization
SOUTHERN UNIV
(N/A)
BATON ROUGE,LA 70813
Performing Department
CLOTHING/TEXTILES/RELATED ARTS
Non Technical Summary
There is need to reduce waste and develop textile products that have biodegradation potential. The proposed project addresses this problem by developing value-added products from kenaf fiber for apparel applications The proposed project will enhance the suitability of kenaf as an apparel fiber. Fibers will be extracted using chemical and bacterial retting and spun into yarn. The yarns will be softened to make them more suitable for apparel applications. Physical properties of the yarns will be assessed and compared.
Animal Health Component
100%
Research Effort Categories
Basic
(N/A)
Applied
100%
Developmental
(N/A)
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
5111720200075%
8041720200025%
Goals / Objectives
To determine the impact of retting method, spinning method and blending percentage on the properties of kenaf fiber. To evaluate the impact of mercerization on the properties of kenaf fiber.
Project Methods
Kenaf fiber will be extracted using bacterial and chemical retting processes. Yarns will be spun from kenaf/cotton blends using the ring and rotor spinning methods. Yarn will be mercerized using NaOH and Ammonia. Yarns will be characterized using standard test methods of ASTM. Tests will include tenacity, twist, extensibility, and hand evaluation. Electron microscopy and image analysis will be used to compare surface properties of the yarns. Statistical analysis will be conducted to determine of significant differences exist between the test sample.

Progress 09/15/99 to 09/30/04

Outputs
The objectives of the project were to: (1)To determine the impact of retting method, spinning method, and blending percentage on the properties of kenaf fiber. (2)To Evaluate the impact of mercerization on properties of kenaf fiber. The project has provided valuable information on yarn characteristics of kenaf. Kenaf (currently grown on Southern University Campus under a separate project) and at Mississippi State University was used. Fiber was extracted by bacterial retting and chemical retting. Yarns were spun from kenaf/cotton blends using the ring and rotor spinning methods. Yarns have been characterized using standard test methods of the American Association for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Results showed that application of NaOH caused fibers to swell and become rounder without changing fiber bundle diameter significantly. Fiber bundle shape varied greatly for chemically retted fibers, which also showed signs of deterioration. Examination of longitudinal shape showed that fiber bundles of chemically retted fibers were more separated, uneven and appeared more brittle than the bacterially retted fibers. Under cross-polarized light, bacterially retted fibers showed a higher degree of anisotropy, birefringence, and pleochroism than chemically retted fibers. Fiber diameter increased with chemical treatment. Based on the findings of this study, it can be concluded that NaOH improved fiber regularity of kenaf fibers but caused weakening of the fibers. Excessive chemical treatment damages fiber bundle integrity, loosening short kenaf fibers, resulting in rougher yarn of fabric. Everglades variety has finer fibers and bundles and could be more suited for apparel applications. Project Outcomes: (a)A state-of-the-art textile technology laboratory has been established to conduct textiles research.(b)Studies on extraction and processing of kenaf fibers have been conducted and procedures for producing very high quality fibers have been refined. (c)A unique method of hand carding and combing. (d)The project was featured in the local paper the Advocate in the Science and Technology section as one of the priority projects in the University. Louisiana. (e)Displayed our fibers at the International Kenaf Society. (f)A competitive research equipment grant titled Enhancement of Textile Testing Laboratory in the amount of $100,000 was obtained from the Louisiana Board of Regents Support fund. This additional funding has helped to equip a state-of-the-art textile technology laboratory. (g)A Masters thesis from a Louisiana State University student. (h)Several publications and presentations.

Impacts
This project has had great impact on the textiles research program at Southern University. Funds from this project enabled the University to establish the first textile technology research laboratory. Through additional funding that was leveraged as a result of this project, this laboratory has grown into a state-of-the-art textile technology laboratory that feature high-tech equipment and instruments. The impact of this project contributed significantly to the national prominence of Dr. Grace Namwamba, the PI. She received the NASULGC Excellence in College Teaching for the Southern Region in 2003. Southern University became the 2nd HBCU to receive this award. She was named Southern University Teacher of the Year in 2001 and received the Colleges teatching excellence award.

Publications

  • Namwamba, G.W., Dixon, D.L. (2004). Microscopic Characterization of Bacterially and Chemically Retted Kenaf Fibers. Abstract published on-line at www.aatcc.org. in the proceedings of the 2004 AATCC International Conference.
  • Namwamba, G. N. and Dixon, D. L. (2003). Bacterial retting and fiber softening of everglades variety kenaf for apparel applications. Published in the proceedings of the 13th Biennial ARD Conference.


Progress 01/01/03 to 12/31/03

Outputs
The objectives of the project were to: 1) To determine the impact of retting method, spinning method, and blending percentage on the properties of kenaf fiber. 2) To evaluate the impact of mercerization on properties of kenaf fiber. Objective I of the project is almost complete. Collaborative work with Louisiana State University and the Southern Regional Research Center in New Orleans, Louisiana is on-going and the following accomplishments have been done: 1) Image analysis system has been purchased and is scheduled to be delivered in January 2004; 2) Extraction of fibers by chemical retting on a large scale is completed; 3) Extraction of fibers by biological retting on a larger scale is completed; 4) Yarn spinning of the biologically retted yarns is being completed at USDA SRRC mini spinning facility; 5) Fabrics have been knitted in preparation for the Kawabata testing procedures; 6) Mercerization of the chemically retted spun yarns will be conducted.

Impacts
The research conducted is adding new knowledge in the processing of kenaf for apparel applications. The research topic is of significant importance to the state of Southern University and the State of Louisiana. The project has been featured in the local paper The Advocate in the Science and Technology section as one of the priority projects in Louisiana. The research capacity building grant was used to leverage for external funding successfully. A competitive research equipment grant titled Enhancement of Textile Testing Laboratory in the amount of $100,000 obtained from the Louisiana Board of Regents Support fund was used to purchase equipment that has put the textile technology laboratory on the cutting edge and further ensures that the project objectives will be completed. Additionally, the long-term sustainability of the project will surpass the funding period because of the additional external funding received. Additional equipment (Atlas Conditioning Chamber) to enhance this project was purchased through a USDA Facilities grant.

Publications

  • An abstract was published in the conference proceedings for a poster presentation at the American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists (AATCC) in Greenville, South Carolina (September 2003). Abstract and poster title: Effect of Retting Method on the Color of Kenaf Fiber.
  • An abstract was published in the conference proceedings for a poster presentation at the Association of Research Directors (ARD) Symposium in Atlanta, Georgia (April 2003). Abstract and poster title: Bacterial Retting and Fiber Softening of Everglade Variety Kenaf for Apparel Applications.
  • Exhibited chemically and biologically retted soften fibers at the American Kenaf Society (AKS) Conference in Memphis, Tennessee (November 2002).
  • Poster presentation at AATCC in Charlotte, North Carolina (October 2002). Poster titled: Chemical Treatment for Improving Kenaf Spinnability.


Progress 01/01/02 to 12/31/02

Outputs
The objectives of the project were to: 1.To determine the impact of retting method, spinning method, and blending percentage on the properties of kenaf fiber. 2.To Evaluate the impact of mercerization on properties of kenaf fiber. Objective I of the project is almost complete. Collaborative work with Louisiana State University was completed. Collaboration with the USDA Southern Regional Research Center in New Orleans, Louisiana is on-going and the following accomplishments have been done: 1. Plans are underway to purchase the image analysis system. 2. Extraction of fibers by chemical retting on a large scale is completed. Yarn production of chemically retted fibers is completed. 3.Extraction of fibers by biological retting on a larger scale is completed. The fibers are in the process of being spun into yarn at USDA SRRC in New Orleans. 4. Kenaf was grown for a second season on Southern University campus. The Kenaf was harvested and fiber was extracted from the stems. 5. Kawabata testing procedures are almost completed. 6. When yarn spinning is completed, mercerization of the yarns will be conducted.

Impacts
The research conducted is adding new knowledge in the processing of kenaf for apparel applications. The biological retting procedure that was developed produced very high quality fibers. This was duly noted by scientists at USDA SRRC. We also developed a unique method of hand carding and combing. The research topic is of significant importance to the state of Southern University and the State of Louisiana. The project was featured in the local paper "the Advocate" in the Science and Technology section as one of the priority projects in the University. Louisiana. We were invited to display our fibers at the International Kenaf Society. The research capacity building grant was used to leverage for external funding successfully. A competitive research equipment grant titled "Enhancement of Textile Testing Laboratory" in the amount of $100,000 was obtained from the Louisiana Board of Regents Support fund. The equipment purchased through this grant has put the textile technology laboratory on the cutting edge and will ensure that the project objectives will be completed. Additionally, the long-term sustainability of the project will surpass the funding period because of the additional external funding received.

Publications

  • An abstract was published in the AATCC August 2002. Zhang, T., Chen, Y., Namwamba, G., Dixon, D., and Kimmel L. (2002). Chemical Treatment for Improving Kenaf Spinnability (Abstract), American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorist Review, October 2002
  • Chemical Treatment for Improving Kenaf Spinnability, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorist Conference, Charlotte, NC - October 2002 - Poster presentation.


Progress 01/01/01 to 12/31/01

Outputs
Objective 1 of the project is almost complete. Installation of equipment in the Textile Technology Laboratory in the Ashford Williams Research Building was completed in July. Collaborative work with Louisiana State University and the Southern Regional Research Center in New Orleans, Louisiana is on going and the following accomplishments have been done. Installation of the tensile testing machine is completed. Plans are underway to purchase the image analysis system. Extraction of fibers by chemical retting on a large scale is completed. Extraction of fibers by biological retting on a larger scale is almost completed. Yarn spinning of the chemically and biologically retted yarns will be completed by end of September. The work is nearing completion. Kenaf was grown for a second season on Southern University campus. The Kenaf was harvested and fiber was extracted from the stems. Fabrics have been knitted in preparation for the Kawabata testing procedures. When yarn spinning is completed, mercerization of the yarns will be conducted.

Impacts
The research conducted is adding new knowledge in the processing of kenaf for apparel applications. The research topic is of significant importance to the state of Southern University and the State of Louisiana. The project was featured in the local paper "the Advocate" in the Science and Technology section as one of the priority projects in the University. Louisiana. The research capacity building grant was used to leverage for external funding successfully. A competitive research equipment grant titled Enhancement of Textile Testing Laboratory in the amount of $100,000 was obtained from the Louisiana Board of Regents Support fund. The equipment purchased through this grant has put the textile technology laboratory on the cutting edge and will ensure that the project objectives will be completed. Additionally, the long-term sustainability of the project will surpass the funding period because of the additional external funding received. All the equipment has been delivered and is awaiting installation as soon as the laboratory is completed.

Publications

  • No publications reported this period


Progress 01/01/00 to 12/31/00

Outputs
Objective I of the project is almost complete. There was a delay in accomplishment of objectives because the Textile Technology Laboratory in the Ashford Williams Research Building is in progress and therefore no test equipment can be installed at this point. The PI has made efforts to continue the work on the project through collaborative efforts with Louisiana State University and the Southern Regional Research Center in New Orleans, Louisiana. The following accomplishments have been done: One major equipment - the tensile tester has been purchased. Installation has been delayed until the research laboratory is completed. A research Associate has been hired and has started working on project objectives. A sub-contract was awarded to Louisiana State University school of Human Ecology to assist in chemical retting and yarn testing. Kenaf was grown on Southern University campus. The Kenaf was harvested and fiber was extracted from the stems. The Kenaf was biologically retted to extract fiber. Chemical retting to extract kenaf has been completed on a pilot scale. Yarns have been spun at the SRRC in New Orleans on a pilot scale. Pilot studies of yarn testing have been completed and large-scale extraction of the fiber is in progress.

Impacts
The research conducted is adding new knowledge in the processing of kenaf for apparel applications. The research topic is of significant importance to the state of Southern University and the State of Louisiana. The project was featured in the local paper "the Advocate" in the Science and Technology section as one of the priority projects in the University. Louisiana. The research capacity building grant was used to leverage for external funding successfully. A competitive research equipment grant titled Enhancement of Textile Testing Laboratory in the amount of $100,000 was obtained from the Louisiana Board of Regents Support fund. The equipment purchased through this grant has put the textile technology laboratory on the cutting edge and will ensure that the project objectives will be completed. Additionally, the long-term sustainability of the project will surpass the funding period because of the additional external funding received. All the equipment has been delivered and is awaiting installation as soon as the laboratory is completed.

Publications

  • No publications reported this period