Source: UNIV OF MINNESOTA submitted to NRP
SUSTAINABILITY AND HEALTH NEEDS OF MINNESOTA CONSUMERS FOR APPAREL PRODUCTS IN THE 21ST CENTURY
Sponsoring Institution
State Agricultural Experiment Station
Project Status
COMPLETE
Funding Source
STATE
Reporting Frequency
Annual
Accession No.
0169778
Grant No.
(N/A)
Cumulative Award Amt.
(N/A)
Proposal No.
(N/A)
Multistate No.
(N/A)
Project Start Date
Jul 1, 2009
Project End Date
Jun 30, 2014
Grant Year
(N/A)
Program Code
[(N/A)]- (N/A)
Recipient Organization
UNIV OF MINNESOTA
(N/A)
ST PAUL,MN 55108
Performing Department
Design, Housing & Apparel
Non Technical Summary
Research of sustainable and health needs in the development of apparel products for Minnesota consumers has great value to the apparel industry, the environment, and citizens. A major strength of the project is the ability to combine resources of the Human Dimensional Laboratory with innovative approaches to connecting the multi-disciplinary fields of medicine, engineering, human factors and apparel to discover new opportunities for creatively using technologies to solve health and sustainability problems and improve quality of life.
Animal Health Component
(N/A)
Research Effort Categories
Basic
(N/A)
Applied
(N/A)
Developmental
(N/A)
Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)Subject of Investigation (SOI)Field of Science (FOS)Percent
8035199309050%
8046010302050%
Knowledge Area
804 - Human Environmental Issues Concerning Apparel, Textiles, and Residential and Commercial Structures; 803 - Sociological and Technological Change Affecting Individuals, Families, and Communities;

Subject Of Investigation
6010 - Individuals; 5199 - Clothing and textiles, general;

Field Of Science
3090 - Sensory science (human senses); 3020 - Education;
Goals / Objectives
To develop research projects with the goal of improving quality of life by focusing on sustainability and health. To investigate the design of apparel products related to changing consumer perceptions of sustainability and needs as related to health and well-being. To foster effective and responsive design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide examples of product development and product manufacturing that is responsive to consumer needs whil incorporating sustainability.
Project Methods
Identify, define, and investigate user groups with specific needs related to sustainability and health; conduct literature search. Seek funding through proposal writing. Formulate criteria to guide product design, development and evaluation, based on literature search and user needs investigations. Apply criteria to a specific apparel product and/or specific user group. Select materials for development and evaluation. Design and text through appropriate means, i.e., laboratory and / or field tests. Continue to expand possible uses for technology in analyzing the human body to improve product design. Evaluate and publish results in refereed journals. Disseminate findings to consumer groups, user groups, allied professional fields and the apparel industry.

Progress 07/01/09 to 06/30/14

Outputs
Target Audience: Educators and Extension professionals locally, nationally and internationally with interests in textiles and apparel and sustainability, Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Support for 3 graduate students and 2 undergraduate students to conduct research How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Publications, presentations, outreach workshops, exhibitions What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? RE: Objective 1: Continued work on publication preparation. Continued work advancing book development. RE: Objective 2: Publications and presentations as listed RE: Objective 3: Project was finalized with a local corporation to design protective garments. Two patent disclosures were submitted for protective apparel with features to support mobility and improved fit/sizing. This project supported and trained one graduate student and two undergraduate research assistants. RE: Objective 4: Continued dissemination of sustainability research. The project to co-design culturally appropriate athletic wear for East African teen girls has reached the prototype development stage. A sizing system is being developed.

Publications

  • Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: DeLong, M. Heinemann, B. and Reiley, M.( 2014). Redefining, Redesigning Fashion: Designs for Sustainability. Fashion Practice. 6:1, 125-130 DeLong, M. 2014. Perspectives on Modernity Panel. Popular Culture/American Culture conference, April, Chicago, Ill Panelists: DeLong, Casto, Gordon, McKinney Kim, D.E., Sohn, M., LaBat, K., & Bye, E. (2014). A study of scan garment accuracy and reliability. The Journal of the Textile Institute. DOI:10.1080/00405000.2014.949502


Progress 01/01/13 to 09/30/13

Outputs
Target Audience: Consumers of protective apparel, breast cancer survivors, posture therapy patients, East African teens. youth, general public, subject matter specialists, professionals in the apparel industry, and U of MN faculty, staff and students; youth from 4H, Girl Scouts and school career groups, and university students and adults who are interested in sustainability. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Graduate students were trained in research and dissemination processes. Publications and disseminations are a key part of faculty professional development. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Publications and presentations to colleagues and stake holders. Also the sustainability exhibition and other workshops. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? We will be working to complete projects in process as we enter the final months of the project.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Accomplishments: RE: Objective 1: Interview and body scan data of breast cancer survivors are being analyzed from a 2-phase study. Significant changes to body symmetry due to breast cancer therapies are being noted. Interviews with participants indicate a number of challenges related to body changes and wearable product selections. Body scan data was collected from patients as they participated in posture restoration therapy at a Minnesota Physical Therapy Clinic. This research was funded by UMN Clinical and Translational Science Institute to determine if viewing 3D (body scanned) posture through posture modifying therapy improves patient experience. Technologies and methods were developed to qualitatively and quantitatively assess changes in posture. Technologies included adapting the body scanner to use an off-the-shelf Wii to assess posture and balance. Patients and physical therapists used the body scan images to assess and improve therapies. Therapists can use the Wii data to more specifically detail posture changes. Results were presented to other researchers and community partners at an annual awards conference titled, "The Power of Partnerships" sponsored by the U of M's Clinical and Translational Science Institute (CTSI), the Center for Health Equity (CHE) and the Program in Health Disparities Research (PHDR.) A UMN Imagine Grant was awarded to one of the researchers to develop illustrations for a book manuscript. Posture restoration body scan techniques and analysis are being used by one physical therapy clinic with good outcomes and the technology has potential for use on a much wider scale. Understanding the relationships of body form, size, and composition to wearable products is important in providing improved human health and well-being. RE: Objective 2: Research on sustainability prompted the proposal for an exhibition focused on the environmental, social and economic impact of sustainability to transform our design efforts in the future. The result was the exhibition in the Goldstein Museum of Design entitled, “Redefining, Redesigning Fashion, Designs for Sustainability” which opened January l8 and ran through May 26, 2013. The call for design entries for exhibition resulted in 200 entries from designers worldwide; these entries were juried and the 50 entries for the exhibition became prototypes, focused upon five themes of sustainability: 1. Valuing resources, 2. Versatility, 3. Encouraging emotional connection, 4. Repurposing materials, 5. Alternative construction & techniques. The intent of the exhibition and programs was to raise awareness of design as an essential part of a sustainable apparel trend and to collect research data. Data were analyzed from the approximately 189 youth and 290 adults who took the sustainability survey on best practices related to sustainability.Publications will be forthcoming. RE: Objective 3: A third contract (2013-2014) was finalized with a local corporation to design protective garments. A patent disclosure has been submitted and is under review for a resulting proprietary design for protective apparel with features to support mobility that was completed May 2013. A sizing system is being developed. This project supports and trains one graduate student and two undergraduate research assistants. RE: Objective 4: The “sustainability” exhibition was the second highest in visitor attendance to the Goldstein Museum of Design in the last 5 years with an estimated 1,895 visitors, with average weekly attendance of 100 and opening weekend visitors to the exhibition numbering 209. The exhibition was used by various classes for students to focus upon sustainability and its implications. For example, the large design foundations class at the University of Minnesota, College of Design, “Introduction to Design Thinking” as well as Studio Classes designed class assignments and activities around the exhibition. In addition, a Graphic Design Studio class designed publicity posters and invitations through a class exercise that featured sustainability.Attendance at various workshops accompanying the exhibition was 538; this included a tour of the exhibition and hands-on programming related to sustainability. Participants of guided tours of the exhibition numbered 1,056.4H members and Girl Scouts were involved in ½ day workshops on sustainable best practices. An all-day workshop open to the public included a plenary session on sustainability and 12 break-out sessions where professional educators and experts taught about sustainable solutions. Funding for the sustainability project made possible an array of accompanying programs and was used to hire experts, professionals and administrators. Curators and staff gave keynote speeches, taught workshops, and engaged in the programming for the exhibition. Funding from proposals totaled $64,500 and sources included, MN Extension, MAES, the College of Design, Faculty Imagine Grant, Fashion Avenue (a consignment shop located at 50th and France), and Treadle Yard-Goods, an upscale fabric store on Grand Avenue in Saint Paul. A 50% time graduate assistant was hired because of the funding available. The sustainability exhibition and other workshop collaborations involved local funders from thrift shops and fabric stores, the Textile Center, Sol Inspirations, and MN Goes Green event organizers from the City of Saint Paul. Visiting Scholars from universities in Shanghai, China, and Seoul, Korea designed products around the theme of sustainability and volunteered to jury and work with the various participant groups. This exhibition and accompanying programs resulted in a significant involvement of sustainability stakeholders: youth, general public, subject matter specialists, professionals in the apparel industry, and U of MN faculty, staff and students. Communities of interest included youth from 4H, Girl Scouts and school career groups, university students and adults from the region. Contacts within MN Extension and Girl Scouts made the workshops possible. A project to co-design culturally appropriate athletic wear for East African teen girls received funding and commenced fall 2013. IRB approval is currently being sought. The girls have participated in educational events to learn about the Kinesiology and Apparel Design programs at the University of Minnesota, four girls attended a lecture on designing sports apparel by Susan Sokoloski, Women’s Innovation director at Nike, and 25 girls attended a women’s collegiate basketball game to observe uniforms and the players in motion.

Publications

  • Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2013 Citation: Peer Reviewed Publications: Braaten, A. & DeLong, M. November 2013. Shawls of the Germans from Russia: Connections to the Past. Textile History. Vol 44: No. 2, pp.197-213. DeLong, M. Goncu-Berk, G. Bye, E. & Wu, J. Februry 2013. Apparel Sustainability from a Local Perspective. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. Vol. 17 No.1, pp.59-69. DeLong M. Casto, M.A., McKinney, M. November, 2013. Lessons Learned from Youth. Full paper in Proceedings of International Conference of Education, Research & Innovation. Seville, Spain. DeLong, M. 2013. The Color Revolution. Journal of Design History. doi: 10.1093/jdh/ept033 Kim, D.-E., & LaBat, K. (2013). Consumer experience in using 3D virtual garment simulation technology, Journal of The Textile Institute, DOI:10.1080/00405000.2012.758353 Kim, D.-E., & LaBat, K. (2013). Evaluation on accuracy and fidelity of 3D garment simulation technology: a user study. Textile Research Journal. 83(2), 171-184. Koo, H. S., Dunne, L., & Bye, E. (2013). Design Functions in Transformable Garments for Sustainability. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2013.845250


Progress 01/01/12 to 12/31/12

Outputs
OUTPUTS: RE: Objective 1: Data from a body satisfaction intervention using body scans developed with colleagues in graphic design, computer science, psychology and psychiatry were analyzed and an article submitted to Health Psychology. A two-part study of breast cancer survivors' perceived quality of life and satisfaction with breast cancer specific products was completed. Fifty-two women from 24 support groups completed questionnaires and a sub-group of 25 women volunteered for an in-depth interview and to participate in body scan procedures to analyze treatment effects such as asymmetry and lymphedema. Questionnaire data have been analyzed and one manuscript is in preparation. The interview and body scan data are being analyzed. Grant funding was secured from the UMN Clinical and Translational Science Institute to determine if viewing 3D (body scanned) posture through posture modifying therapy improves patient experience. The project is a partnership with a Minnesota physical therapy clinic. A UMN Imagine Grant for a course release was granted to one researcher for continued work on a book manuscript. Development of new measuring methods for dynamic movement, with applications for sizing, fit and performance. RE: Objective 2: As a result of the research on sustainability, a juried design competition was planned for exhibition in the Goldstein Museum of Design. A call was distributed to designers to submit a design that they could justify as sustainable. This year the entries were received and jurying was completed for entries showing design prototypes for sustainability. Exhibition has been juried to include 52 entries from the USA and globally. Funding has been procured for accompanying outreach events related to the exhibition opening January-May, 2013. RE: Objective 3: Research was funded to improve the fit and function of protective coveralls. Patent disclosure is in process. Transformable garments as an option for increased novelty and sustainability were investigated. RE: Objective 4: Educational programs are being developed for youth groups to accompany the design for sustainability exhibition in the Goldstein Museum of Design that will open in 2013. The exhibition is title, "Redefining, Redesigning Fashion: Design for Sustainability". As a pilot, a product design project was developed for Girl Scouts around sustainability and related to their guidelines for a product design badge. As a result of the planning, fifty nine Girl Scouts received their product designer badge that reflected sustainability. PARTICIPANTS: Research team from UMN psychiatry and psychology (research and clinical expertise in eating disorders), computer graphics and media education; collaboration with UMN oncology; grant-funded project with Impact Physical Therapy Clinic. Graduate students: Mary Alice Casto, Seoha Min, M.Sohn, C. Sowers. Research Associate: Karen Ryan, M.D., 3M research: Linsey Gordon, Theresa Lastovich Theses completed by graduate students: -Cohn, Caitlin M.A. 2011 -Kuhr, Dan Ph.D. 2012 -Koo, Helen Ph.D. 2012 -Sohn, M.Y., PhD. 2012 TARGET AUDIENCES: Apparel designers in industries, soon to become designers, consumers of apparel, health care professionals. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.

Impacts
The center includes the Human Dimensioning Lab, The Experiential Lab, Wearable Technology Lab and Innovations Studio. Grant awarded from UMN Clinical and Translational Science Institute for 3D body scan analysis of changed posture through physical therapy. Understanding sustainability from the perspectives of industry and user is critical for optimal use of resources. Exhibition on Design for Sustainability in Goldstein Museum of Design planned for 2013 to include programs for youth groups. The Wearable Product Design Center was established May 2010 for increased visibility Understanding the relationships of body form, size, and composition to wearable products is important in providing improved human health and well-being.

Publications

  • Chen, C., LaBat, K. & Bye, E. 2011. Bust prominence related to bra fit problems. International Journal of Consumer Studies. 35, 695-701.
  • DeLong, M., Goncu-Berk, G., 2012. What color is sustainability, in Color and Design (Eds) DeLong, M. & Martinson, B., London: Berg.pp. 89-100.
  • DeLong, M., & Martinson, B. (Eds.), 2012. Color and Design. London: Berg.
  • DeLong, M. Park, J. and Wu, JJ. 2012. Tactile response and shifting touch preference, Textile: Journal of Cloth and Culture. 10:1, 44-60.
  • DeLong, M. Kahn, C. & Newell, J. 2012. Emerging leaders in philanthropy: Making a difference through the Buckman Fellowship. Journal of Creative Education. Vol 3 No. 6 pp.1158-1163.
  • DeLong, M. Kahn, C. & Newell, J. October, 2012. Cultivating Emerging Leaders in Philanthropy in Higher Education, Full Paper in, ICERI Conference Proceedings, Madrid, Spain.
  • Sohn, M. & Bye, E. 2011. Analysis of Upper Body Measurement Changes in Motion using Motion Capture System. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org (Received the ITAA Lectra Innovative research award, November 2012; ITAA paper of distinction for Product Development, November 2012).
  • DeLong, M., Goncu-Berk, G., Bye, E. & Wu, J. March, 2012. Apparel design for sustainability from a local perspective. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology/International Textile and Apparel Association Symposium Proceedings. Beijing, China.
  • Kim, D-E & LaBat, K. 2012. An exploratory study of users evaluations of the accuracy and fidelity of a 3D garment simulation, Textile Research Journal, 1-14, http://trj.sagepub.com/content/early/2012/09/11/0040517512458339
  • LaBat, K. & Bye, E., The research notebook/journal: A tool developing student researchers skills and maturity, March, 2012. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology/International Textile and Apparel Association Symposium Proceedings. Beijing, China.
  • LaBat, K. & Sokolowski, S. 2012. Olympic Dress, Uniforms, and Fashion. The Berg Fashion Library. September, http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com/view/bewdf/BEWDF-v10/EDch10412.xml.
  • McKinney, E., Bye, E., LaBat, K. 2012. Building patternmaking theory: A case study of published patternmaking practices for pants, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 1-15.
  • Sohn, M. & Bye, E. 2012. Visual analysis of body shape changes during pregnancy. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, DOI:10.1080/17543266.2011.649792


Progress 01/01/11 to 12/31/11

Outputs
OUTPUTS: RE: Objective 1: Data from a body satisfaction intervention developed with colleagues in psychiatry and psychology were analyzed. The intervention using body scan technology is intended to improve body satisfaction of young women. The intervention and two controls were tested using pre-test and post-test measures on ninety participants. The technology shows promise for educating people about real body shapes and sizes. Researchers intend to revise the intervention experimenting with alternate modes of presentation. A manuscript is under review. Data-collection process was completed on a project to evaluate the effects of treatment on breast cancer survivors' perceived and real body asymmetries and satisfaction with textile products (lymphedema sleeves, mastectomy bras, etc). Questionnaire and body satisfaction instruments were completed by support group members in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Interviews and scanning of a sub-set of participants were completed. Data from all phases of the study are being analyzed. RE: Objective 2:Interviewed designers in a variety of large and small industries in Minnesota about best practices they follow that could lead to sustainability, analyzed data and summarized results. A manuscript is under review and an abstract was accepted for presentation at the BIFT-ITAA conference in Beijing China, March, 2012. RE: Objective 3:A contract was finalized with a local corporation to design protective garments. Prototypes have been presented to corporation personnel. RE: Objective 4: Analyzed data of a consumer sample on attitudes toward sustainable apparel products and presented the work in Hong Kong at the DesignEdAsia conference, December, 2010. Analyzed data of a consumer sample that compared younger and older age groups on their perceptions of sustainable apparel products. Work was presented in Valencia, Spain, at the INTED conference, Spring 2011. Investigated clothing practices of pregnant women related to body image, manuscript in review. PARTICIPANTS: Research team from UMN psychiatry and psychology (research and clinical expertise in eating disorders), computer graphics and media education; UMN General Clinical Research Center; collaboration with UMN oncology; UMN dermatology, UMN Laboratory for Human Health and Safety in Extreme Environments). Graduate student participants: Gozde Gonzu-Berk, Linsey Gordon, Myung Sohn, Chad Sowers. Graduate students completed: Chaney, Mary Alice, 2011 Ph.D TARGET AUDIENCES: Manufacturers and consumers of apparel products, breast cancer survivors and oncology medical professionals, young women (body image project). PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.

Impacts
The Wearable Product Design Center was established 2010 and is successful in further outreach to constituency groups. The center includes the Human Dimensioning Lab, The Experiential Lab, Wearable Technology Lab and Innovations Studio. Research was presented locally and internationally at DesignEdAsia in Hong Kong and INTED conference in Spain. Contract negotiated and finalized with 3M corporation for $65,000. Outreach effort: Goldstein Museum of Design exhibition on sustainable apparel is planned for January 19-May 26, 2013 Grants received: Imagine Grant to present research papers, $4,000

Publications

  • Sohn, M. & Bye, E. (2011, November). Pregnancy and body image: Analysis of clothing practices among pregnant women. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org
  • Chen, C. & LaBat, K. & Bye, E. (2011). Bust prominence related to bra fit problems. International Journal of Consumer Studies. 35, 695-701.
  • DeLong, M. Goncu-Berk, G. Bye, E. & Wu, J. 2011. Raising Awareness of Sustainable Practices through Educational Intervention. Full paper in conference proceedings, International Technology, Education, and Development Conference. Valencia, Spain, March 7-9.
  • DeLong, M., Goncu-Berk, G., Bye, E. & Wu, J. (2011). Designing for sustainable best practices. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org
  • Goncu-Berk, G., DeLong, M., (2011). Unveiling the Processes of Cross-Cultural Design: Making the Implicit Explicit, Full paper in International Association of Societies of Design Research, 31 October-November 4, Delft: Netherlands.
  • Park, J., DeLong, M. & Woods, E. November, 2011. Exploring product communication between the designer and the user through eye-tracking technology, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, Link online: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2011.633566


Progress 01/01/10 to 12/31/10

Outputs
OUTPUTS: RE: Objective 1: A body satisfaction intervention was developed with colleagues in graphic design, computer science, psychology and psychiatry. The intervention, intended to improve body satisfaction of young women, was designed using body scan technology. The intervention was pilot tested with ninety young women. Results are being analyzed for publication and to improve the design and delivery of the intervention. A project to evaluate the effects of treatment on breast cancer survivors' perceived and real body asymmetries and their satisfaction with textile products (lymphedema sleeves, mastectomy bras, etc) was initiated. Questionnaire and body satisfaction instruments were developed to send to breast cancer support group members in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Breast cancer survivor support group coordinators were contacted to facilitate participation of group members in the project. A grant application was submitted to NASA to develop an astronaut trauma mitigation suit intended to reduce injuries incurred while wearing a space suit. The proposed project was developed with partners in the UMN Laboratory for Human Health and Performance in Extreme Environments. RE: Objective 2: Survey developed regarding sustainable best practices and distributed to representatives of the MN apparel industry, with follow-up interviews with local apparel designers. Pre-survey, intervention, post survey developed and distributed to #243 college students to determine the effect of intervention designed for awareness of sustainability issues. Analysis compares pre and post survey responses. Same pre-survey, intervention, post-survey distributed to #80 adult study leaders in Southeastern MN. Analysis underway as results of distribution to study circles are completed and returned. RE: Objective 3: Contract negotiations are currently taking place for several protective garment projects between the Wearable Product Design Center and a local corporation. RE: Objective 4: A study of relationship between pregnancy and body image through clothing practices of women in the US and Korea is in data collection stage. This project developed from earlier work, Pattern Adaption for Body Change During Pregnancy: A Case Study. PARTICIPANTS: Research team from UMN psychiatry and psychology (research and clinical expertise in eating disorders), computer graphics and media education; UMN General Clinical Research Center; collaboration with UMN oncology; UMN dermatology, UMN Laboratory for Human Health and Safety in Extreme Environments). Graduate students: K. Buckner, G.Goncu, M.Sohn, C. Sowers. TARGET AUDIENCES: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Not relevant to this project.

Impacts
The Wearable Product Design Center was established May 2010 for increased visibility of research and researchers' expertise. The center includes the Human Dimensioning Lab, The Experiential Lab, Wearable Technology Lab and Innovations Studio. Patent application for Disposable Protective Coverall with Improved Fit for Working Postures is under review. Sustainability research presented locally (1) and internationally (2), at DesignEdAsia in Hong Kong, December 2010. Grant awarded for Breast Cancer Survivors' Altered Body Form, Quality of Life, and Satisfaction with Apparel and Breast Cancer Specific Products. Amount: $83,100. Understanding sustainability from the perspectives of industry and user is critical for optimal use of resources. Understanding the relationships of body form, size, and composition to wearable products is important in providing improved human health and well-being.

Publications

  • Sklar, M. (2010) Punk Dress in the Workplace, University of Minnesota Unpublished doctoral dissertation.
  • Bye, E. (October 2010). Fashion Design. Oxford: Berg.
  • Bye, E., & Sohn, M. (2010). Technology, tradition and creativity in apparel designers: A study of designers in three US companies. Fashion practice, 2(2), 199-222.
  • Bye, E. (2010). A direction for clothing and textile design research. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 28(3), 205-217.
  • Bye, E., & McKinney, E. (2010). Fit analysis using 3-D and live fit models. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 22(2/3), 88-100.
  • Chen, C., LaBat, K. & Bye, E. (2010). Physical characteristics related to bra fit. Ergonomics. 53(4), 514-524.
  • DeLong, M. Geum, K. Gage, K. McKinney, E., Medvedev, K. Park, J. (2010) Cultural Exchange: Evaluating an Alternative Model in Higher Education, Journal of Studies in International Education http://jsi.sagepub.com/ l-17.
  • DeLong, M. Gage, K. Park, J, Sklar, M. (2010) From Renegade to Regular Joe:The Black Leather Jackets Values for Bikers, International Journal of Motorcycle Studies. 6,2, 1-15
  • Kim, D-E & LaBat, K. (2010). Design process for developing a liquid cooling garment hood. Ergonomics. 53(6), 818-828.
  • Park, J., DeLong, M., & Woods, E. (2010) Quantification of aesthetic viewing using eye-tracking technology: The influence of previous training in apparel design. Proceedings of the 2010 Symposium on Eye-Tracking Research & Applications, Austin, TX. 153-155.
  • Park, J., DeLong, M. & Yoh, E. (2010) Textile Manufacture in Korea,in Vollmer, J. Editor. East Asia, Encyclopedia of World Dress & Fashion, Volume 6, 332-336.
  • Pitimaneeyakul, U. & LaBat, K. (2010). Dress of Laos, in Vollmer, J. Editor. The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion.
  • Pitimaneeyakul, U. & LaBat, K. (2010). Dress of Thailand, in Voller, J. Editor, The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion.


Progress 01/01/09 to 12/31/09

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Objective 1. Studies are underway that relate to human health and well-being including: 1) a weight loss study to correlate body fat calculations of DexaScan and body scan technologies; 2) a study on breast cancer treatment related body asymmetries with grant funding from MAES; 3) a study to validate body scan technology for use in clinical trials (protocol and validation study developed for submission to FDA), 4) a study to define the osteoporotic body using body scan technology, 5) a study to document pregnancy using body scan technology. Objective 2. A proposal received an award to study perceptions of sustainability from industry and consumer perspectives. The literature review was used to develop a survey for both consumers and the MN textile and apparel industry. Upon receiving human subject's approval, we have distributed the survey to 200 consumers and are beginning to analyze and interpret the data from the user survey. The survey to be sent to representatives of the MN apparel industry is being piloted using similar questions so that we can compare perceptions of sustainability and best practices between industry and consumer. Objective 3. A project funded by the UMN Office of the Senior Vice President for Academic Affairs and Provost, Imagine Fund explores the integration of ultrasonic welder (uw) technology to the creative practice of the apparel designer. Melding thermoplastic fibers has traditionally been used for low cost industrial applications such as medical gowns; however, the technology has potential to be adapted for more aesthetic applications. The objectives are 1) to critically review the use of uw technology in apparel design practice and 2) to integrate appropriate methods to develop a collection of garments based on exploration of the aesthetic balance between new technology and traditional craft. A team of researchers from UMN and Cornell University are working on developing a protocol using visual analysis to evaluate the fit of five firefighter uniforms. The images represent typical working positions and are from a larger regional study of which Dunne and Ashdown are members. The protocol is based on results from two previous studies, Optimized Pattern Grading, and Pattern Adaption for Body Change During Pregnancy: A Case Study. Results to be applied to final designs in the larger project. Objective 4. Received grant funding from the University of Minnesota Institute for Advanced Studies, Body and Knowing Program, to develop a body satisfaction intervention for young women using body scan technology. The intervention is being tested with participants, 18 to 19 years old, from two colleges in the twin cities area. PARTICIPANTS: UMN Plant Pathology; research team from UMN psychiatry and psychology (research and clinical expertise in eating disorders), computer graphics and media education; UMN General Clinical Research Center; collaboration with UMN oncology; UMN dermatology, UMN Laboratory for Human Health and Safety in Extreme Environments; Dan Rowe and Associates, a prosthetic and orthotic provider, and Century College prosthetic design intern). Graduate students: G.Goncu, M.A. Chaney, D.E. Kim, M.Sohn. TARGET AUDIENCES: Extension educators pesticide applicators protective clothing; students ages 18-19 to promote healthy body image; MN textile and apparel industry to define and promote sustainability; Firefighters protective clothing. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.

Impacts
Completed an educational presentation on Pesticide Applicators' Protective Clothing and provided the program to extension educators in UMN Plant Pathology. Work was completed on 1) on a liquid cooling ventilation garment design for astronauts and 2) a study of amputees' residual limb volume fluctuations and shape changes with the goal of improving prosthetic fit for amputees. Bye submitted final draft of book that looks at clothing design through the lens of sustainability and social justice. LaBat received UMN College of Design, Outstanding Research Award, May 2009, for research in the Human Dimensioning Laboratory.

Publications

  • Kim, DE., 2009. Apparel Fit Based on Viewing of 3D Virtual Models and Live Models. University of Minnesota, Unpublished doctoral dissertation.
  • Sohn, M., 2009.Pattern Adaption for Body Change During Pregnancy. University of Minnesota, Unpublished master thesis.
  • LaBat, K. & Ryan, K. 2009. Design and medicine collaborate using digital technology. Australasian Medical Journal, 1(10), 92-92.
  • Park, J. & DeLong, M. 2009. User Perceptions of Technology Adoption and Implementation: A Case Study of Footwear Production in a Global Market, Fashion Practice. Vol. 1:1, pp.87-108.
  • Ryan, K. & LaBat, K. 2009. Addressing the challenges of patient-centered design. Australasian Medical Journal, 1(13), 204-210.
  • Staker, M., Ryan, K., & LaBat, K. 2009. Medicine and design investigate residual limb volume fluctuations. Australasian Medical Journal, 1(12), 156-161.


Progress 01/01/08 to 12/31/08

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Developing methods of improving wearable apparel products that meet the needs of a variety of populations has been the focus of this project. Many of the research projects use the tools available in the Human Dimensioning Laboratory (HDL) established in 2003 with a NSF grant. Research is structured by the project objectives. Objective 1: To investigate the design of the apparel products related to user expectations and the changing apparel industry. Case study method is being used to analyze the changing body form through pregnancy along with developing basic apparel forms to better fit the pregnant figure. Project proposal was submitted to the UMN Cancer Research Center to investigate breast cancer survivors' changed body form and posture with resulting effects on apparel use and satisfaction. Training was initiated and will be continued for a new direct-signal motion capture system to be used in the analysis and development of pesticide protective clothing. Objective 2: To foster effective and responsive design and manufacturing processes by working closely with apparel producers on individual projects to provide an example of product development and manufacturing that is responsive to consumer needs. Project is underway to assess changing body form through weight loss with resulting effects on apparel fit and consumer apparel choices. Data have been collected and being analyzed for a project that compares the use of high tech and high touch methods of product development to a designer's creativity score. An extension of a study on scan garment accuracy and reliability is underway to determine participant's comfort with alternate scanning apparel. Objective 3: To investigate consumer awareness of needs as related to apparel products, and develop educational programs to address issues of health and safety. Major interdisciplinary project initiated with apparel researchers, computer science researchers and psychiatrists to develop a body satisfaction intervention for young women using body scan technologies. Educational program on selection and use of pesticide protective clothing in collaboration with etymology extension specialist is in final stage of preparation. PARTICIPANTS: Karen Ryan, College of Design; Dong-Eun Kim, College of Design; Myung Sohn, College of Design; Dean Hertzfeld, Plant Pathology; Scott Crow, Psychiatry; Carol Peterson, Psychiatry; Brad Hokanson, College of Design TARGET AUDIENCES: Target audiences include designers, manufacturers and consumers of ready-to-wear apparel and users of specialized apparel, such as protective clothing who will benefit from improved design, fit and sizing. In addition an educational program on pesticide protective clothing is in final stages of preparation with an intended audience of a variety of users who apply pesticides. PROJECT MODIFICATIONS: Nothing significant to report during this reporting period.

Impacts
Research conducted in the Human Dimensioning Lab is leading to new methods of using consumer/product user assessment, 3-dimensional data and motion analysis data to provide better fit and function of everyday apparel and protective clothing. Experimentation with 3-dimensional body scanning, standard off-the-shelf apparel industry software, and 3-dimensional engineering packages has lead to new methods of analyzing fit and providing better fit of apparel. The technologies have also resulted in methods to better understand how consumers perceive virtual bodies in on-line shopping scenarios and in situations that may lead to more realistic and healthy perceptions of body and self. The lab is leading apparel researchers in the first attempts at using motion capture technology to assess and design better protective clothing. Projects developed in the Human Dimensioning Lab have resulted in interdisciplinary partnerships with researchers in plant pathology, engineering, computer science, and psychiatry.

Publications

  • DeLong, M. & Park, J. 2008. Touch memories and the influence of gender, Senses & Society, 3:1, pp. 23-44.
  • DeLong, M. (2008, December). Promoting cross cultural collaborations through design, DesignEdAsia Conference Proceedings, http://www.sd.polyu.edu.hk/designedconference2008/.
  • Dissertations Juyeon Park (June, 2008). Theorizing Technology Adoption and Implementation in Organizations: A Case of Virtual Sampling Technology in Global Footwear Production.
  • Kelly Gage. (November, 2008). Dress of the African Female Population in Nineteenth-Century Brazil.
  • Kathy Reiley (December, 2008). Definitions of Uniqueness in Terms of Individual Appearance: Exploring Vintage Clothing and New Clothing Wearers.
  • Bye, E., LaBat, K., McKinney, E., & Kim, D. (2008).Optimized pattern grading. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 20(2), 79-92.
  • Bye, E. (2008). Body scan: Enhanced. International Textile and Apparel Association Design Competition. November, Chicago, IL.
  • Kim, D, Sohn, M., LaBat, K., & Bye, E. (2008, November). A study of scan garment accuracy and reliability. [On-line]. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org
  • McKinney, E., LaBat, K., & Bye, E. (2008, November). Towards a 3D theory of pattern drafting: relationship of body shapes to pattern shapes. [On-line]. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org.


Progress 01/01/07 to 12/31/07

Outputs
OUTPUTS: Developing methods of improving wearable apparel products that meet the needs of a variety of populations has been the focus of this project. Many of the research projects use the tools available in the Human Dimensioning Laboratory (HDL) established in 2003 with a National Science Foundation Grant. Researchers use a full body laser scanner, motion capture system and sample production equipment to design and test production methods and prototypes. Research is structured by the objectives for this project. Objective 1: To investigate the design of the apparel product related to user expectations and the changing apparel industry in Minnesota. Body scans of women representing the company's sizes were studied in relationship to the standard model shape used by most women's apparel producers. Patterns were developed to represent a full size range using two different methods of interpreting body shape and size. This will build a basis for proposing a new grading methodology for sizing systems Focused analysis was conducted on pant fit for women with the same measurements, but different body shapes. An angle measurement tool brought a new method of analysis to a project evaluating bra fit and satisfaction. Objective 2: To foster effective and responsive design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide an example of product development and manufacturing that is responsive to consumer needs. U.S. (and Minnesota) apparel producers struggle with the costly issue of providing good fit of apparel to reduce returns and improve profits. The technology available in the HDL is used to address this problem by developing basic research analyzing body scan data for application to products. The results of fit evaluations using live models or body scan date were compared and an expanded project is planned with researchers from Cornell University. Objective 3: To investigate consumer awareness of needs as related to apparel products, and develop educational programs to address issues of health and safety. Research for this objective focused on developing products for health and safety. A collaborative project with 4 other universities is underway to develop improved protective clothing for pesticide applicators using body scan data and motion capture assessment to evaluate proposed prototypes. A collaborative grant was procured with researchers from clothing design, extension, and plant pathology to develop an evaluation protocol for protective garments for pesticide applicators, in support of the larger project. A collaborative study with a local prosthetic and orthotic provider and a prosthetic design student froma MN technical college used body scanning and Polyworks software to investigate the residual limb volume fluctuations and shape changes of amputees with the goal of improving prosthetic socket fit for amputees. A project is in development with the Body Composition lab to evaluate change in shape and composition during weight loss. The results from a Dexascan that uses radiation will be compared with those from the body scanner that uses a low level laser scanner. PARTICIPANTS: Ellen McKinney Dong-Eun Kim Karen Ryan Chin-Man Chen Dean Hertzfeld

Impacts
The Human Dimensioning Laboratory supports projects that add to the basic knowledge of understanding fit and sizing for a wide range of wearable products, from ready-to-wear apparel to protective products for health and safety. Researchers on this project were awarded the 2007 Lectra Innovation Award for Faculty Research at the 2007 International Textile and Apparel Association conference in Los Angeles, CA.

Publications

  • McKinney, E., (co-advisors K. LaBat & E. Bye). Towards a Three-dimensional Theory of Pattern Drafting: Relationship of Body Measurements and Shapes to Pattern Measurements and Shapes. (May, 2007). (unpublished dissertation)
  • Chen, C. (advisor K. LaBat). Female Body Characteristics Related to Bra Fit. (October, 2007). (unpublished dissertation)
  • Yu, J., (advisor E. Bye) Colleges students perceptions of jeans. (December, 2007). (unpublished dissertation)
  • LaBat, K. Gahring, S., Herzfeld, D., & Bye, E.(2007). Special Request Proposal for Hatch Funding--Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station, Amount: $87,646.75
  • LaBat, K., Bye, E., Gahring, S., Durfee, W., Herzfeld, D., (2007)Designing motion into pesticide protective apparel using a motion capture system. AES Project Grant: Forming Interdisciplinary Linkages, Amount: $20,000.
  • Bye, E., & McKinney, E. (2007). Sizing up the wardrobe-Why we keep clothes that do not fit. Journal of Fashion Theory,11(4), 483-498.
  • DeLong, M., Wu, J., & Mingxin, B. (2007). May I touch it? Textile, 5, (1) 30-45.
  • LaBat, K., Salusso-Deonier, C., & Rhee, J. (2007). Home sewers satisfaction with fit of apparel patterns. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 11(3).
  • Schofield, N, Ashdown, S., Hethorn, J., LaBat, K. & Salusso, C. (2006). Improving Pant Fit for Women 55 and Older Through an Exploration of Two Pant Shapes. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24 (2), 147-160.
  • Nelson, N., DeLong, M., Hegland, J., Thompson, M., & Williams G. ( 2007). Constructing Knowledge for the Future: Exploring Alternative Modes of Inquiry from a Philosophical Perspective. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, 25, (4) 323-348.
  • LaBat, K. (2007). Sizing Standardisation, in Ashdown, S.P., Editor. Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-Wear Clothing, Woodhead Publishing Limited.


Progress 01/01/06 to 12/31/06

Outputs
This project focuses on developing methods of providing improved apparel products that meet the needs of users. Many of the research projects use the tools available in the Human Dimensioning Laboratory (HDL) established in 2003 with a National Science Foundation Grant. Researchers use a full body laser scanner, motion capture system and sample production equipment to design and test production methods and prototypes. Research is structured by the objectives for this project. Objective 1: To investigate the design of the apparel product related to user expectations and the changing apparel industry in Minnesota. Working with an independent catalog retailer for plus-sized women, a study of the effects of body mass index on body shape and related apparel size dimensions was conducted. Body scans of women representing the company's sizes were studied in relationship to the standard model shape used by most women's apparel producers. A related study used scans of fit models and fit manikins used by a major retailer headquartered in Minnesota to discern differences and possible effects on use of live model vs. manikin in developing apparel size specifications. Objective 2: To foster effective and responsive design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide an example of product development and manufacturing that is responsive to consumer needs. U.S. (and Minnesota) apparel producers struggle with the costly issue of providing good fit of apparel to reduce returns and improve profits. The technology available in the HDL is used to address this problem by developing basic research analyzing body scan data for application to products. A pilot project was conducted to investigate usefulness of body scan data in assessing apparel fit. Students in a clothing design studio course used scan data to learn basics of good fit. Objective 3: To investigate consumer awareness of needs as related to apparel products, and develop educational programs to address issues of health and safety. Research for this objective focused on developing products for health and safety. In conjunction with the University of Minnesota Extreme Environments Laboratory, researchers developed an improved liquid cooling ventilation garment that maintains a safe body temperature for astronauts. A collaborative project with 4 other universities is underway to develop improved protective clothing for pesticide applicators using body scan data and motion capture assessment to evaluate proposed prototypes. A graduate student who is also a rehabilitation doctor conducted her master's research using body scans to assess the effects of advanced osteoporitic changes on posture and needs to modify patterns for women with osteoporosis. A study was recently initiated to evaluate volume change of limbs of amputees with the end goal of designing better fitting prosthetics.

Impacts
Projects conducted in the Human Dimensioning Laboratory are adding to basic knowledge of understanding fit and sizing for a wide range of products, from ready-to-wear to protective products for health and safety. Researchers on this project were awarded the 2006 College Innovation and Mission Advancement Award for establishing the Human Dimensioning Laboratory as an innovative research facility.

Publications

  • Bye, E., LaBat, K., & DeLong, M. 2006. Analysis of body measurement systems for apparel. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(2), 66-79.
  • LaBat, K. 2006. Human factors and apparel design, International Encyclopedia of Ergonomics and Human Factors. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press, 1655-1657.
  • McKinney, E. Bye, E., LaBat, K., DeLong, M., & Kim D. 2006. Linking Research and Education through the Human Dimensioning Laboratory, International Fiber Conference: Extreme and Aesthetic Textiles, Proceedings, Seoul, Korea,217-218.
  • Saiki, D. & DeLong, M. 2006. Professionals relationships with clients in the apparel industry," Qualitative Market Research, An International Journal, Vol. 9, 3, 266-281.
  • Schofield, N, Ashdown, S., Hethorn, J., LaBat, K. & Salusso, C. 2006. Testing quality of fit of two pattern shapes for women 55 and older. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24 (2), 147-160.
  • Wu, J. & DeLong, M. 2006. Chinese perceptions of western-branded denim jeans: a Shanghai case study, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, An International Journal, Vol 10, 2, 238-249.


Progress 01/01/05 to 12/31/05

Outputs
The project objective for the past year has been accomplished: to set-up the Human Dimensioning Laboratory by installing and testing major equipment (full body scanner and motion capture system) purchased through a National Science Foundation Major Research Instrumentation Grant. A second objective was to seek funding for projects that will allow research to take place using the equipment and to explore positioning in global apparel markets. A pilot project using the scanner to assess body measurements of fit models for a major Minnesota retailer was completed. Two grant proposals were written to assess body dimensions of specific populations (women over 55 years and obese adults). The motion capture system is being used to assess mobility of athletes and people wearing prosthetics. The project objectives for the coming year are to continue to experiment with the equipment and new computer software tools, create guidelines for use of the laboratory among the researchers, search for funding and complete a strategic plan to incorporate the technologies into specific research projects. 2 Ph.D students are completed

Impacts
The initiation of the human dimensioning laboratory has opened new collaborative opportunities for apparel researchers who are working closely with colleagues in mechanical engineering, kinesiology, and architecture. Strategies for designing and manufacturing a wide range of products are being developed.

Publications

  • Schofield, N. & LaBat, K. (2005). Defining and testing the assumptions used in current apparel grading practice. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 23(3), 135-150.
  • Bye, E. & LaBat, K. (2005). An analysis of apparel industry fit sessions. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology Management, 4(3), 1-5.
  • DeLong, M. Wu, J. & Bao, M. 2005. The Influence of Chinese Dress on Western Fashion, Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, 9(2),116-179.
  • Schofield, N. & LaBat, K. (2005). Exploring the relationships of grading, sizing and anthropometric data. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 23(1), 13-27 .
  • LaBat, K., DeLong, M., Gahring, S. (2005). A longitudinal study of sun-protective attitudes and behaviors. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 33(3), 240-254.


Progress 01/01/04 to 12/31/04

Outputs
The project objective for this year was to set-up the Human Dimensioning Laboratory by installing and testing major equipment (full body scanner and motion capture system) purchased through a National Science Foundation Major Research Instrumentation Grant. The equipment was installed and tested and researchers are learning to operate the sophisticated software and equipment. Corrections were made to malfunctioning equipment and the laboratory equipment is now fully functional. A strategic plan is needed to incorporate the technologies into specific research projects and to create guidelines for use of the laboratory among the researchers. A second objective was to seek funding for projects that will allow research to take place using the equipment and to explore positioning in global apparel markets. A pilot project using the scanner to assess body measurements of fit models for a major Minnesota retailer was completed. Two grant proposals were written to assess body dimensions of specific populations (women over 55 years and obese adults). The motion capture system is being used to assess mobility of athletes and people wearing prosthetics. Impact: The initiation of the Human Dimensioning Laboratory has opened new collaborative opportunities for apparel researchers who are working closely with colleagues in mechanical engineering and kinesiology. Strategies for designing and manufacturing a wide range of products are being developed.

Impacts
The initiation of the Human Dimensioning Laboratory has opened new collaborative opportunities for apparel researchers who are working closely with colleagues in mechanical engineering and kinesiology. Strategies for designing and manufacturing a wide range of products are being developed.

Publications

  • DeLong, M., Bao. M., Wu, J. 2004. Perception of USA Branded Apparel in Shanghai, Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management, Vol. 8, 3, 141-153.
  • DeLong M., & Petersen, K. 2004. Analysis and Characterization of 1930s Evening Dresses in a University Museum Collection, Clothing & Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 22,3,99-112.
  • DeLong M. 2004.Theories of Fashion in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol. 2. pp.21-27.
  • DeLong M. & Heinemann, B. 2004. Color in Dress, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol 1, pp.280-283.
  • DeLong M. & Geum, K. 2004. Korean Dress & Adornment, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol. 2, pp.313-318.
  • LaBat, K. 2004. Fasteners, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion, New York: Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol II, pp. 71-72.
  • LaBat, K. 2004. Bicycle Clothing, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol I, pp. 154-5.
  • Bye, E. & LaBat, K. 2004. High Tech Fashion, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol II, pp 205-209.
  • Pitimaneeyakul, U. & LaBat, K. 2004. Asia, Southeastern Mainland: History of Dress, in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons Reference Books, edited by Valerie Steele, Vol I, pp 97-101.


Progress 01/01/03 to 12/31/03

Outputs
The project objective was to focus on locating and securing funding for equipment that could be used to begin research on the human body as it relates to apparel products. Funding will allow for further investigation of user expectations and will aid us in developing related educational programs. Two proposals were written and submitted, one federal grant and one private industry grant. The grant proposal to the National Science Foundation was funded with contributed funds from the University of Minnesota to total $410,216. Grant money is being used to equip the Human Dimensioning Laboratory for product development. The team of researchers are from faculty in apparel, mechanical engineering and human factors. The laboratory will provide the latest means of developing products: apparel, to prosthetics, to automobile seats. A second proposal still in review addresses the applications related to the laboratory. If this proposal is not funded we will continue to seek additional funding so that the laboratory equipment can be used to develop improved models of product development.

Impacts
The development of the human dimensioning laboratory will allow us to work with other units across the university on interdisciplinary and multidisciplinary projects.

Publications

  • Zhao, Y. 2003. Women's Preference for Handwear for Cold Weather Activities. Unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota.
  • Reiley, K. 2003. The Vintage Clothing Market, Consumer and Wearer in Minneapolis/St Paul, MN. Unpublished Master's thesis, University of Minnesota.


Progress 01/01/02 to 12/31/02

Outputs
The project objective was to investigate the design of the apparel product related to user expectations and technological changes in the apparel industry. Under this objective are two projects that received our attention this year: e-commerce education for small rural business operators and education of youth for sun protection. The e-commerce project in which women in small rural Minnesota businesses were educated to buy, source, and sell their products electronically was reported previously. This year the data from the e-commerce pre and post surveys were analyzed and results were evaluated, summarized, and published. A neglected research opportunity is reaching youth in large numbers with preventive approaches that promote health and well-being. The Sunsmart project previously reported addressed an educational intervention that reached 15,000 youth concerning sun protection. A longitudinal study of students originally reported on in this Sunsmart project were approached to complete a survey and the data are now being analyzed and evaluated. The project was expanded to reach adults who may be at risk. Minnesota Department of Transportation workers were surveyed to determine their risk factors and protective behaviors. Preliminary results indicate that the workers seldom wear protective clothing and do not use the issued protective hat. Workers contributed their suggestions for improved sun protective hats.

Impacts
An educational program designed to aid the owners of small rural businesses in Minnesota increased their knowledge and skills with e-commerce and how it applied to their apparel businesses. The Minnesota SunSmart project, in its 9th year, is a research and outreach project that continues to educate people about the importance of being sun safe and to conduct research, to identify strategies to promote skin cancer prevention.

Publications

  • DeLong, M. LaBat., K. Nelson, N., Koh, A. and Kim, Y. 2002. Global markets, global products. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 20(84):238-245.
  • DeLong, M., Gahring, S., Bye, E., Johnson, K., and Anderson, J. 2002. Using the internet to enhance business opportunities in rural areas. Journal of Family & Consumer Sciences. 94(3):33-38.
  • Nelson, N., LaBat, K., Williams, G. 2002. Contemporary Irish textile artists: Exploring experiences of gender, culture, and artistic medium. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 20(1): 15-25.


Progress 01/01/01 to 12/31/01

Outputs
A series of projects were structured to aid the apparel industry in providing better products in a timely manner based on the needs of specific user groups. Work on the design and fit of products for specific markets included new designs for a Minnesota company that produces rain wear for active sports markets, improving the visual impact and salability of a sleeper designed to prevent sudden infant death syndrome, and improving the general fit and sizing of apparel for women 55 years and older. Educational programming continues with the Sun Smart project initiated in 1994 that is offered to adults and youth through MN Extension. A longitudinal study on teen's acceptance of wearing sun protective clothing was completed and submitted for publication. Results indicate that further research is needed in determining clothing designs that teens will like and wear. An entrepreneur is developing a line of sun protective clothing after consulting with researchers on this Sun Smart project. Breast cancer survivors were surveyed for their clothing needs and preferences. Survey results were distributed to breast cancer support groups throughout the state. An e-commerce curriculum was offered in four rural counties in Minnesota and evaluated for its impact on small rural business owners who specialize in textile and apparel products. This curriculum, consisting of 4 half-day sessions on use of the Internet for electronic commerce, was evaluated through a pre and post survey and a six-month follow-up interview with participants. While participants varied in amount of Internet experience prior to the workshop, it was deemed important for those entering the program to have prior computer knowledge and skills in using the Internet. However all participants reported an increase in their use of the Internet to shop competition, obtain technical support, advertise their current business, and to develop and evaluate a home page. Interviews resulted in many success stories based upon this e-commerce curriculum. The next task is to explore the project's sustainability and availability of new funding sources.

Impacts
Apparel products contribute significantly to the economy of Minnesota. This multi-focused project benefits small rural businesses as well as larger manufacturers and retailers because results contribute to improved product design and distribution. Consumers indirectly benefit from availability of improved products that meet their needs.

Publications

  • Bye, E. & LaBat, K. 2001. A Skin cancer intervention program for youth: Research informs teaching. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, focused issue: Strategies for Success-Focus on Environments: Expressions of Our Lives, 93: 21-22.
  • Kim, Y., DeLong, M., LaBat, K. 2001. Perceptions towards wearing school uniforms. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 25:1167-1178.
  • Pitimaneeyakul, U. 2001. Product Development in the Knitwear Industry: A Case Study. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minnesota.


Progress 01/01/00 to 12/31/00

Outputs
E-commerce is a general term to describe a rapidly expanding approach to business buying, sourcing, and selling electronically on the Internet. As a part of Objective 7, to develop a plan to educate users, we collaborated with Isanti County to research a pilot curriculum of Access Minnesota Mainstreet, but modified with information designed specifically for rural textile and apparel businesses. In this curriculum, training is hands-on and participants learn where to find resources and reach new markets. Fourteen owners/operators of textile and apparel businesses completed the four half-day sessions. Before and after the sessions, participants responded to a survey designed to test participants about computer related knowledge. Six months later we interviewed each participant to determine how many of the e-commerce practices they continued and how they were meeting their business plans. The outcome was multiple benefits from targeting the curriculum to textile and apparel industries. The participants gained in technical knowledge of creating and promoting website development and at the same time expanded their network of related businesses to learn about competition and suppliers. According to the survey and interview, participants completed the curriculum feeling confident in their ability to move forward with their knowledge and skills focusing on: using the Internet as a business research tool to find new markets, suppliers, or to check out the competition; deciding whether a web presence is right for their business; learning the process of creating a website and techniques to effectively promote a website. Finally they learned how to incorporate the Internet into their business plan.

Impacts
With over half the jobs in Minnesota now located in out-state areas, employers with Internet-enabled tools will significantly affect the state's economic stability. Learning e-commerce and Internet skills can create a more diverse selection of employment options in rural areas.

Publications

  • Botkin, M. 2000. The new look in America: A material culture analysis. Unpublished Plan B Masters, University of Minnesota.
  • DeLong, M. ed. 2000. Minnesota Creates: Fashion for a Century. The Goldstein, St Paul, MN.
  • Saiki, D. and DeLong, M. 2000. First in Fashion: Tales from a Twin Cities Retailer in DeLong, M., ed., Minnesota Creates: Fashion for a Century, The Goldstein, St Paul, MN.
  • Saiki, D. and DeLong M. 2000. Minnesota Manufacturing from Storm Coats to Tricot Knit Underwear in DeLong, M., ed., Minnesota Creates: Fashion for a Century. The Goldstein, St Paul, MN.
  • LaBat, K. 2000. Bemidji Woolen Mills and Faribault Woolen Mill: Warming the World, in DeLong, M., ed. Minnesota Creates: Fashion for a Century. The Goldstein, St Paul, MN.
  • Henderson, B. and DeLong, M. 2000. Dress in a Postmodern Era: Definition of an Aesthetic Expression. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 18, 4: 237-250.
  • Schofield N. 2000. Investigation of the pattern grading assumptions used in the sizing of U.S. women's clothing. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota.


Progress 01/01/99 to 12/31/99

Outputs
The Sun Smart project initiated in 1994 continued with emphasis on sun protective methods used by youth. This multi-phase project was recognized receiving the Program Excellence Through Research Award from the National Extension Association of Family and Consumer Sciences. A longitudinal study of youth's perceptions of methods used to be sun safe was initiated. Students initially studied as 5th and 6th graders 5 years ago were reassessed as teens with preliminary results indicating that health messages need reinforcement and modification as youth move from pre-teen to teen. In addition, 30 6th grade students were selected as a focus group to provide specific information on preferred features of sun hats. Limited to unisex styles, baseball caps and camp hat styles were preferred, confirming results of an earlier study. Six prototype hats were designed and will be presented for review by the focus group with limited quantity manufacture and test of an improved sun hat style. Meeting the needs of an older population is becoming an important factor to the apparel industry. Wear study data on a new sizing system for women 55 years and older indicates that aesthetic choices may obscure improvements in the fit of garments. Grant awards were secured from several sources to continue investigation of the changing needs of manufacturers and consumers in Minnesota.

Impacts
Results of this multi-focus project will benefit rural and urban consumers in finding products to meet their needs.

Publications

  • DeLong, M. LaBat, K. Gahring, S. Nelson, N. & Leung, L. 1999. Implications of an educational intervention program designed to increase young adolescents' awareness of hats for sun protection. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 1 (2), 73-83.
  • DeLong, M. Nelson, N. & Trautmann, J. 1999. Application of an aesthetic framework for understanding ideal appearances. As Textrina, 31, 167-182.
  • LaBat, K. & Sokolowski, S. 1999. A three-stage design process applied to an industry-university textile product design project. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17 (1), 11-20.
  • Sokolowski, S. 1999. Development of a methodology to describe the morphology of the foot for footwear: Application for women's footwear. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minnesota.
  • Then, N & DeLong, M. 1999. Apparel shopping on the web. Journal of Family & Consumer Sciences, 91 (3), 65-68.
  • Trautmann, J. 1999. Dress, furnishings and interiors, c1910-1918, Minneapolis, Minnesota: Exploring design relationships in the context of the Purcell-Cutts house. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, Minnesota.


Progress 01/01/98 to 12/31/98

Outputs
Youth receive more income than in the past and they often are in charge of making their own clothing purchases; thus, youth are viewed as independent consumers. However school dress codes and wearing school uniforms is often a joint decision involving school administrators and parents, as well as students. Understanding the consumption process involves: defining the consumer and a hierarchy of needs through studying how consumers use products and under what circumstances, and looking at consumers' perceptions of products. In the case of school uniforms, perceptions of parents, teachers and students were compared among three schools to determine the influence of wearing school uniforms differing in flexible to strict dress code regulations. Parents, teachers and students were asked to respond to similar questions and data were analyzed to compare the three perspectives. Findings indicate that the students differ in their perceptions toward wearing uniforms but a flexible dress code and an increase in years of wearing school uniforms did influence a positive result, that is, the earlier the student is introduced to wearing the uniform, the more positive the result. A methodology for measuring and sizing of women's footwear was developed using a plaster casting technique as a means of simulation of foot shape and contour and from this, measurements were produced and analyzed. Subjects were selected from a volunteer pool based upon normal and modal foot dimensions. A local footwear manufacture has provided funding for the project that resulted in a method and outcome that will be used for sizing of women's footwear (LaBat & Sokolowski, in press).

Impacts
(N/A)

Publications

  • DeLong, M., Koh, A. Nelson, N. & Ingvoldstad, A. 1998 "Jeans: A Comparison of Perceptions of Their Meaning in Korea and the United States. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 16, 3, 116-125.


Progress 01/01/97 to 12/31/97

Outputs
Work on the study of consumer response to apparel products used for protection from ultraviolet radiation continued. Data were collected and analyzed on adolescents' perceptions of hat styles for sun protection. Results indicate an educational program somewhat broadens the range of acceptable products for this age; however the preferred styles, such as a baseball hat,are influenced by fashion. A journal article was submitted and accepted for publication and is in editorial revision. Educational programs on safe exposure to sun are being conducted through Univ. of Minnesota Extension Service. Audiences now include adults. Researchers in Korea collaborated on a second project. Focus groups were conducted with female subjects ages 18 to 24 in the U.S. and Korea. The goal was to determine perceptions of Korean and American students to national brands and private label brands produced domestically or in another country. Results have implications for manufacturers designing and producing product for several countries. Data were analyzed and results presented at an international conference. A major finding was that country of manufacture was of little importance to subjects in either country when considering purchase. Subjects considered fit, color, and brand as important in purchase decisions.

Impacts
(N/A)

Publications

  • No publications reported this period


Progress 01/01/96 to 12/30/96

Outputs
The objectives of the project, to investigate the beliefs, attitudes, and intentions of youth before and after educational intervention on sun protection and to explore use of sun protective clothing with a segment of rural youth, has been accomplished with pre-teens. Research data were analyzed and written for publication. Currently, research involving teen-aged youth is underway to assess their beliefs and attitudes to tanned appearance and sun protective clothing. The educational program, Sun Smart, has been delivered to numerous 4-H and youth audiences around the state. Additional funds were secured for purchase of equipment to evaluate skin damage due to sun exposure. This project has been of interest to local media and has been featured on television, radio and in newsletters.

Impacts
(N/A)

Publications

  • LABAT, K., DELONG, M., GAHRING, S., AMIR-FAZLI, H. & LEE, M. 1996. Evaluation ofa skin cancer intervention program for youth. Journal of Family & Consumer Sciences, 88(2), 3-10.


Progress 01/01/95 to 12/30/95

Outputs
ONE OF THE MOST NEGLECTED RESEARCH OPPORTUNITIES HAS BEEN A THOUGHTFUL EXPLORATION OF HOW TO REACH YOUTH IN LARGE NUMBERS WITH PREVENTIVE APPROACHES THAT PROMOTE HEALTH & WELL BEING. RURAL MINNESOTA YOUTHS ARE A HIGH-RISK POPULATION FOR SKIN CANCER BECAUSE OF ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS SUCH AS THE NUMBER OF DAYS OF SUNLIGHT AND ATMOSPHERIC POSITION FOR OZONE THINNING, AS WELL AS THE PROPORTION OF LIGHT SKIN TYPES WHO ARE VULNERABLE TO THE EFFECTS OF SUN EXPOSURE. THIS RESEACH EXPLORES CONTENT OF A SPECIFIC EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM DESIGNED FOR YOUTH & DISSEMINATED THROUGH THE NETWORK OF EXTENSION EDUCATION IN 4 SOUTHERN MINNESOTA COUNTIES. HATS ARE A SPECIFIC APPAREL PRODUCT WHOSE PROPERTIES ARE BEING EXAMINED BASED UPON RESPONSES OF 1200 RURAL YOUTH SELECTED AS SUBJECTS FOR THIS RESEARCH. BEFORE & AFTER A MULTIPLE EDUCATIONAL INTERVENTION CONCERNING THE NEED OF SUN PROTECTION & THE EFFECTS OF SKIN CANCER, BOYS AND GIRLS WERE AKSED TO RESPOND TO 8 HATS THAT VARIED IN DEGREE OF SUN PROTECTION OFFERED BY THEIR DESIGN. THEY WERE ASKED HOW MUCH THE HAT OFFERED PROTECTION FROM THE SUN, HOW MUCH THEY LIKED THE HAT, & HOW OFTEN THEY WOULD WEAR IT. RESPONSES TO THESE QUESTIONS ARE BEING EXAMINED AS THEY RELATED TO THE EDUCATIONAL INTERVENTION ON SKIN CANCER & THE DANGERS FROM TOO MUCH SUN EXPOSURE.

Impacts
(N/A)

Publications

  • NO PUBLICATIONS REPORTED THIS PERIOD.