INVESTIGATING STRATEGIES TO SUPPORT MINNESOTA CONSUMERSâ¿¿ NEEDS FOR SUSTAINABLE AND HEALTH-RELATED APPAREL PRODUCTS MADE IN THE USA

• Sponsoring Institution: State Agricultural Experiment Station
• Project Status: COMPLETE
• Funding Source: STATE
• Reporting Frequency: Annual
• Accession No.: 1003131
• Project Start Date: Jul 1, 2014
• Project End Date: Jun 30, 2018
• Program Code: [(N/A)]- (N/A)

Recipient Organization
UNIV OF MINNESOTA
(N/A)
ST PAUL,MN 55108

Performing Department
Design, Housing & Apparel

Non Technical Summary
This AES project is titled broadly so as to provide flexibility for projects based upon additional procurement of external funding for projects related to sustainability, health and domestic manufacturing. The UMN Wearable Product Design Center is based on the premise that collaborative work with diverse perspectives moves research into action. Funding is being sought to focus on what sustainability means in Minnesota, for both the apparel industry and the consumer. Each product industry is unique and is at a different position regarding sustainability. For example in the food industry a sustainable practice is to grow and use locally; however such a mantra would have to be revised for use in the apparel industry. Target Headquarters, located in Minneapolis, designs locally, manufactures globally and distributes apparel products regionally. A recently published book Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? (Hethorn & Ulasewicz, 2008) examines the issues of sustainability that designers, product developers and consumers confront as they go about creating, wearing and recycling clothing. For example, what does sustainability mean alongside fashion--two seemingly contradictory concepts, one related to change and the other about preservation. Sustainability begins with the question, "sustaining what?" We plan to conduct interviews and focus groups, and survey users to learn about expectations and interpretations of sustainability from the apparel industry and consumers.Successful sustainable efforts translate into health outcomes. We will continue to address health concerns of targeted populations by moving research results (breast cancer survivors' wearable product and appearance needs, body scanning assessment of postural therapies, protective clothing) into outreach programming and commercial applications.Linkage to Technology InnovationsA primary aspect of our project continues to revolve around the Wearable Product Design Center (WPDC) encompassing the Human Dimensioning© Laboratory (HDL), The Experiential Lab and the Innovations Studio. The WPDC is an innovative, synergistic "think-tank" to explore methods and technologies that will change how we design, produce, and wear clothing. We broadly define clothing to encompass products worn on the body, such as medical compression garments, prostheses, and protective garments of all types.In the HDL we use 3-D body scanning and motion capture to analyze human bodies with the ultimate goal of designing better wearable products. Increasingly the laboratory has focused on projects related to health and well-being (LaBat & Ryan, 2009). We collaborate with several partners in engineering and medicine to incorporate essential perspectives and to reach the targeted audiences. Current health-related projects include a study of breast cancer treatment effects on body shape and posture with particular emphasis on lymphedema assessment (with medicine); assessing health effects of posture modification therapy (with physical therapy), and evaluating body change through a controlled weight loss program with implications for improved fit of apparel (with nutrition). A major focus for one AES researcher and a medical doctor over the next three years will be developing materials and programs to educate designers about understanding human anatomy with implications for design of wearable products.In the Innovations Studio we investigate methods of fabrication and manufacturing including CAD, 3D patternmaking and virtual fitting. Bridging new technology and traditional methods provides insight to product development challenges. Current projects include the use of nonwoven and adhesive materials for protective apparel; active wear, and dynamic movement. These projects involve multiple phases with potential for funding from several sources.Linkage to Consumers' Unmet NeedsIn the Experiential Lab we analyze historical and current trends, and evaluate sensory perceptions and preferences for sustainable products. The current definition of sustainability as a concept includes social, economic, and environmental impacts. Our current research has identified the following as important for further investigation for the industry and user: Repurposed materials such as converting useless, damaged products into new higher quality products with environmental value and up-cycling thrift finds, hand-me-downs, reclaimed materials or discarded items; Alternative constructions & techniques, such as use of natural dyes, minimal chemical processing and zero waste in design; Valuing resources such as encouraging the Slow Fashion movement, participatory redesign and high quality craftsmanship; Versatility including garments and accessories that can be worn for several events or in a number of ways and valuing the economy of cost per wearing; Encouraging emotional connections included wearing heirloom or memorable garments and accessories and considering the cultural inspiration and attachments with multiple meanings for the individual.Linkage to Industry PracticesAn increasing number of manufacturers are shifting their production from overseas to domestic production sites. Consumers are asking for more American-made goods. The desire to know the sources and footprint of our clothing mimics the ongoing trend in the food industry. Consumers are concerned about the sustainability and safety of their apparel products, and there is a growing willingness to buy less and pay more if the quality is high and the life cycle of the product reflects the values of the consumer. US manufacturing, including the textile and apparel industry, are experiencing a promising turnaround as they require higher quality, more dependable scheduling and stronger attention to safety issues than they currently experience off-shore. Minnesota manufacturers have begun to address this need with the formation of the Maker's Coalition. A generation of skilled workers has been lost during the move of manufacturing off-shore, and many of the few current workers are retiring (DePass, 2013). The Maker's Coalition is a joint effort to train production sewers as the demand in Minnesota greatly exceeds the supply.Research of sustainable and health needs in the development of domestically designed and manufactured apparel products for Minnesota consumers has great value to the apparel industry, the environment and its citizens. A major strength of the project is the ability to combine the resources of the WPDC with an innovative approach to connecting the multi-disciplinary fields of medicine, engineering, human factors and apparel to discover new opportunities for creatively using technologies to solve health and sustainability problems in the context of domestic production and improve quality of life.

Animal Health Component

50%

Research Effort Categories

Basic

(N/A)

Applied

50%

Developmental

50%

Classification

Knowledge Area (KA)	Subject of Investigation (SOI)	Field of Science (FOS)	Percent
804	5110	3110	100%

Knowledge Area
804 - Human Environmental Issues Concerning Apparel, Textiles, and Residential and Commercial Structures;

Subject Of Investigation
5110 - Clothing/apparel;

Field Of Science
3110 - Art and architecture;

Keywords

apparel

health

sustainability

made in the usa

technology

Goals / Objectives
In the last decade significant changes have occurred in Minnesota regarding apparel products, their design, production, and use. Apparel produced by large companies emphasizing off-site manufacture is being challenged by a growing number of small companies with an interest in designing and manufacturing domestically for specialized markets. The user population has also shifted both towards lifestyle groups and the types of apparel products needed by new categories of users. A perceived shift from a recreational consumer to an informed and concerned user of products provides opportunities for research of the user and development of the product. The organizing principle for this project is to develop research that has the potential of contributing to the quality of life for people of the state of Minnesota and beyond. Accordingly, we will address the dual foci of sustainability and health. Project investigators collaborate and contribute their expertise to individual research projects as appropriate.Objectives: 1. To develop research projects with the ultimate goal of improving quality of life by focusing on sustainability and health.2. To investigate and support the domestic design and manufacture of apparel products related to changing consumer perceptions of sustainability and needs as related to health and well-being.3. To foster effective and responsible design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide examples of product development and product manufacturing that are responsive to consumer lifestyle needs.

Project Methods
1. Identify, define, and investigate user groups with specific needs related to lifestyle, sustainability and health; conduct literature search.2. Seek funding through proposal writing.3. Formulate criteria to guide product design, development and evaluation, based on literature search and user needs investigations.4. Apply criteria to a specific apparel product and/or specific user group. Develop and evaluate domestic design and manufacturing opportunities.5. Design and test through appropriate means, i.e., laboratory, field tests. Continue to expand possible uses for technology in analyzing the human body to improve product design.6. Evaluate and publish results in refereed journals. Disseminate findings to consumer groups, user groups, allied professional fields and the apparel industry.

Progress 07/01/14 to 06/30/18

Outputs
Target Audience:The research and outreach aspects of this project reach diverse audiences in Minnesota and beyond. Sustainability is a major concern in the design and manufacture of apparel products. Audiences for meeting this objective included design students and professionals, who are key in promoting and developing sustainable practices in design. Perceptions of consumers concerning sustainable practices were also explored with the goal of reaching consumers directly with pertinent messages on sustainability. Audiences for the health focus include outreach to immigrant communities to co-design culturally appropriate activewear, active life-style, and healthy eating with funding and programming involving East-African mother-daughter teams. Broader audience of adults who sponsor and set policy for organized athletics. Also students and professionals who design wearable products. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Robin Carufel, PhD, 2018, A Phenomenological Exploration of Apparel Sizing Practice of Small Womenswear Businesses. Nokyeon Kim, PhD, 2018, degree completed Development of Indices for Back Curvature and Postural Variations of the Torso of Women Aged 55 and Older Chae, Yoori, PhD (2018). Economic Recession and Women's Choice of Dress. Sponsoring Adviser for Honorary Post-Doctoral Visiting Scholar Zhengyu, Jia, Shanghai School of Art and Design, 2017-18 Plus additional students from 2014-17 How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Results have been disseminated through refereed presentations and refereed publications. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? 1. To develop research projects with the ultimate goal of improving quality of life by focusing on sustainability and health. -Developed criteria for sustainable design best practices from the user perspective; Testing the criteria through user groups, presentations and publications. -Analysis of posture variations of women age 55 and older -Presented programing with a focus on East African mother-daughter teams using nutrition, physical activity, and sewing co-designed culturally appropriate activewear to support healthy lifestyles. -Developed criteria for sustainable design best practices from designer perspective; currently testing the criteria through user groups, presentations and publications. -Data were analyzed and compared for creativity in apparel design education among students -Collected data from youth groups related to sustainable best practices by testing emotional response to handcrafts in USA and South Korea. In process of publishing paper in the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. -Received a grant for research and outreach with a focus on East African mother-daughter teams using nutrition, physical activity, and sewing co-designed culturally appropriate activewear. -Work was completed on the book manuscript for CRC Press , Human Body: A wearable product designer's guide. The book is co-authored with a medical doctor and features original illustrations demonstrating relationships of product and anatomical structures. 2. To investigate the domestic design and manufacture of apparel products related to changing consumer perceptions of sustainability and needs as related to health and well-being. -Completed interviews, analysis, and published a study of the opportunities, motivations, and challenges for Minnesota sewn product manufacturers. -Completed analysis to gain understanding of the practices and perceptions of US consumers with regard to purchasing domestic or locally made apparel. Manuscript submitted and reviewed. Revisions currently being completed for submission to alternate journal. 3. To foster effective and responsible design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide examples of product development and product manufacturing that are responsive to consumer lifestyle needs. -exploration of the sizing practices of small women's wear apparel manufacturers - Completed development and production of two culturally appropriate activewear designs for mothers and daughters -Presented work to a major Minnesota company on the design and development of protective coveralls and a custom sizing system for good fit and efficient size selection. Currently working on journal publications. 4. To investigate consumer perceptions of their needs related to apparel products and sustainability. -Collected data from user groups comparing age and culture as a factor in sustainability patterns in their apparel they still wear within their wardrobes, data were analyzed and developed into a presentation and publication. -Collected data on the mature user and related sustainability patterns. -Collected data from user groups comparing age as a factor in sustainability patterns in their apparel currently in their wardrobes that they continue to wear, data were analyzed and a presentation developed. Presentation accepted for PCA/ACA conference in 2017. -Collecting data on the mature user and related sustainability patterns. -Work withgraduate students and a post doc on presenting and publishing their research. -Collecting data on the values and practices of consumers of locally-made apparel and accessories

Publications

• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2018 Citation: DeLong, M., Bang, H. & Gibson, L. (2018). Comparison of Patterns of Dressing for Two Generations within a Local Context. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture. 6.1 DeLong M., Min, S., Casto, M.A., & Lee YK. (2018). "Sustainable Clothing from the Older Female User's Perspective." Clothing Cultures, Focused issue on Aging. 3.3
• Type: Book Chapters Status: Published Year Published: 2018 Citation: DeLong, M. & Heinemann, B. (2018). Case Studies of Three Professional Womens Experiences with Designer Fashion, Chapter 6 in Hawley, J, Cassill, N. and McGowan, K. editors. The Future of Luxury, ITAA Monograph #12. Pp. 59-73.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2018 Citation: Bang, H. & DeLong, M. 2018. Creativity in a Capsule Wardrobe Project. International Conference on Clothing and Textiles Toward Sustainability and Transformative Innovation, Seoul, South Korea. Bye, E. & Carufel, R. (2018, September). Co-Designing culturally appropriate activewear for Muslim mother-daughter dyads. Fashion and the Future of Design, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN. Bye, E. & Carufel, R. (2018, November). Perceived cultural variations in the body-garment relationship: Modesty in activewear. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org Carufel, R. & Bye, E. (2018, November). Exploration of the body-garment relationship theory through the analysis of a sheath dress. International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Available through: www.itaaonline.org Casto, M. & DeLong M. 2018. Classic Design: From Cultural Knowledge to Individual Experience. ITAA, Cleveland, Ohio. Choi, D. & DeLong, M. 2018. Development of a Self-Sexualization Scale. ITAA, Cleveland, Ohio. DeLong, M. & Oberg, C. 2018.Fashion Identity and Stories Told. Global Fashion Conference. University of the Arts London. Erickson, K. & Bye, E. (2018, September). Understanding MN Muslim girls experiences with current sports uniforms and their preferences for the design of culturally sensitive sports uniforms. Fashion and the Future of Design, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN. Kim, N. & Bye, E. (2018, September). Future design directions based on consumer perceptions and consumption of UA made apparel. Fashion and the Future of Design, University of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN.
• Type: Books Status: Awaiting Publication Year Published: 2019 Citation: LaBat, K.L. & Ryan, K.S.(2019). Human Body: A Wearable Product Designers Guide. CRC Publishing
• Type: Theses/Dissertations Status: Published Year Published: 2018 Citation: Robin Carufel, PhD, 2018, A Phenomenological Exploration of Apparel Sizing Practice of Small Womenswear Businesses.University of Minnesota Nokyeon Kim, PhD, 2018, degree completed Development of Indices for Back Curvature and Postural Variations of the Torso of Women Aged 55 and Older. University of Minnesota Chae, Yoori, PhD (2018). Economic Recession and Womens Choice of Dress. University of Minnesota

Progress 10/01/16 to 09/30/17

Outputs
Target Audience:The research and outreach aspects of this project reach diverse audiences in Minnesota and beyond. Sustainability is a major concern in the design and manufacture of apparel products. Audiences for meeting this objective included design students and professionals, who are key in promoting and developing sustainable practices in design. Perceptions of consumers concerning sustainable practices were also explored with the goal of reaching consumers directly with pertinent messages on sustainability. Audiences for the health focus are health product consumers and health professionals. The research findings on breast cancer survivors' wearable product needs is reaching audiences in the academic and health practitioner fields. Protective coverall designs were delivered to a major Minnesota company and the patent process for those products continues. Outreach to immigrant communities is a continuing, important function of this project, with funding and programming involving East-African mother-daughter teams. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Kira Erickson, MS, 2017, degree completed Robin Carufel, MS, 2016, degree completed Breanna Jones, MS, 2016, degree completed How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Results have been disseminated through refereed and invited presentations and refereed publications. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?DeLong is collecting data from Chinese consumers on their perceptions concerning sustainable practices. In addition she is analyzing data and preparing a publication on a study comparing older and younger consumers in Minnesota on their sustainability efforts. Bye is drafting a manuscript from data collected focused on consumers of domestic and locally designed and produced apparel and accessories. Data analysis and manuscript drafts from the East-African mother-daughter research. LaBat retired July 1, 2017. She will continue to work on completing her book.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? 1. To develop research projects with the ultimate goal of improving quality of life by focusing on sustainability and health. -Developed criteria for sustainable design best practices from designer perspective; currently testing the criteria through user groups, presentations and publications. -Data were analyzed and compared for creativity in apparel design education among students -Collected data from youth groups related to sustainable best practices by testing emotional response to handcrafts in USA and South Korea. In process of publishing paper in the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. -Presented programing with a focus on East African mother-daughter teams using nutrition, physical activity, and sewing co-designed culturally appropriate activewear to support healthy lifestyles. -Work continued on the book manuscript for CRC Press (due July 1, 2018), Human Body: A wearable product designer's guide. The book is co-authored with a medical doctor and features original illustrations demonstrating relationships of product and anatomical structures. 2. To investigate the domestic design and manufacture of apparel products related to changing consumer perceptions of sustainability and needs as related to health and well-being. -Completed data collection, and analysis to gain understanding of the practices and perceptions of US consumers with regard to purchasing domestic or locally made apparel. Manuscript is in preparation. 3. To foster effective and responsible design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide examples of product development and product manufacturing that are responsive to consumer lifestyle needs. -Presented work to a major Minnesota company on the design and development of protective coveralls and a custom sizing system for good fit and efficient size selection. Currently working on journal publications. 4. To investigate consumer perceptions of their needs related to apparel products and sustainability. -Collected data from user groups comparing age as a factor in sustainability patterns in their apparel currently in their wardrobes that they continue to wear, data were analyzed and a presentation developed. -Currently collecting data on the mature user and related sustainability patterns. -Work with 2 graduate students and a post doc on presenting and publishing their research. Three papers presented at the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference in this regard (see below). - Currently collecting data on the values and practices of consumers of locally-made apparel and accessories.

Publications

• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: DeLong, M., Casto, M., Min S. & Goncu-Berk, G. (2017). Exploring an Up-cycling Design Process for Apparel Design Education. Fashion Practice, The Journal of Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry. 9:1 48-68.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: DeLong, M., Bang, H. & Gibson, L. 2017. Patterns of Dressing for Two Generations of Women. Popular Culture/American Culture conference, San Diego, CA.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: Bye, E. (2017). Sustaining Our Apparel Communities. Silk Road Fashion Technology, Xian Polytechnic University, Xian, China.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: Bye, E., & Erickson, K. (2017). Opportunities and challenges for Minnesota sewn product manufacturers. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 21(1), 72-83.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: DeLong M., Min, S., Casto, M.A., & Lee YK. (2017). "Sustainable Clothing from the Older Female Users Perspective." Clothing Cultures, Focused issue on Aging. 3.3
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: Janigo, K., Wu, J. & DeLong, M. (2017). Redesigning Fashion: An Analysis and Categorization of Womens Upcycling Behavior, Fashion Practice, The Journal of Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry. 9:2 254-279.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: DeLong M. (2017). Educational Strategies for Sustainable Design. International Journal of Designed Objects. 11:1, 11-23. DOI: https://doi.org/10.18848/2325-1379/CGP/v11i01
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2017 Citation: Lee, Y. & DeLong, M. (2017). American and Korean Youths Attachment to Handcraft Apparel and Its Relation to Sustainability. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 35:2, 67-80.

Progress 10/01/15 to 09/30/16

Outputs
Target Audience:The research and outreach aspects of this project reach diverse audiences in Minnesota and beyond. Sustainability is a major concern in the design and manufacture of apparel products. Audiences for meeting this objective included design students and professionals, who are key in promoting and developing sustainable practices in design. Perceptions of consumers concerning sustainable practices were also explored with the goal of reaching consumers directly with pertinent messages on sustainability. Audiences for the health focus are health product consumers and health professionals. The research findings on breast cancer survivors' wearable product needs is reaching audiences in the academic and health practitioner fields. Protective coverall designs were delivered to a major Minnesota company and the patent process for those products continues. Outreach to immigrant communities is a continuing, important function of this project, with funding and programming involving East-African mother-daughter teams. Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Linsey Griffin, Ph.D. degree completed Caitlin Cohn, Ph.D. degree completed Erika Langefels, M.S .degree completed Saemee Lyu, PhD. degree completed Yoon Kyung Lee, post-doc from Seoul, South Korea How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?Results have been disseminated through invited presentations and refereed presentations. Invited presentations: Bye, E. (October, 2016). Innovation hubs and labs: Driving change and creativity. Panel at the WICHE Cooperative for Educational Technologies Conference. Minneapolis, MN Bye, E. (March, 2016). Why call it "wearable product design?" Guest lecturer for the Research seminar in the Department of Fiber Science& Apparel Design, Cornell University, Ithaca NY. Bye, E. (February, 2016). Wearable Product Design Center Research and Intellectual Property. University of Minnesota China Center, Minneapolis MN. DeLong, M. Design & Sustainability: Powerful Partners. Keynote address at Xian Culture Week, Xian, China. (2016). DeLong M & Bang, H. (June, 2016). The Contemporary American Woman: Patterns of Dress and Appearance, Twin Cities Home and Community meeting, Minneapolis MN. Refereed Presentations: DeLong, M. (2016). Educational strategies for sustainable design. Design Principles and Practices, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. DeLong, M. Reiley, K. & Heinemann, B. (2016). For love of Oscar. Costume Society of America, Cleveland, Ohio. Griffin, L., Lastovich, T., Bye, E. & LaBat, K. (November, 2016). Protective coverall design development and testing. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada. Abstract available through: www.itaaonline.org Griffin, L., Lastovich, T., Bye, E. & LaBat, K. (November, 2016). Sizing system development and testing for a protective coverall design. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada. Abstract available through: www.itaaonline.org Lee, Y.K. & DeLong, M. (November, 2016). Re-Birth product development for sustainable apparel design practice in a design studio class. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada. Abstract available through: www.itaaonline.org Received Best paper award. Casto, M.A. & DeLong, M. (November, 2016). Exploring sustainability and classic design through students' aesthetic responses. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada. Abstract available through: www.itaaonline.org Janigo, K., DeLong, M. & Wu, JJ. (November, 2016). Redesigning Fashion: An Analysis and . Categorization of Women's Clothing Redesign Behavior. International Textile and Apparel Association Conference, Vancouver, BC, Canada. Abstract available through: www.itaaonline.org What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?DeLong is collecting data from Chinese consumers on their perceptions concerning sustainable practices. In addition she is analyzing data and preparing a publication on a study comparing older and younger consumers in Minnesota on their sustainability efforts. LaBat has been on a 3-year phased retirement program and will retire July 1, 2017. In the next 6 months, she will be wrapping up projects and completing publications related to her work on the project. Bye is preparing to collect data from Minnesota consumers of locally designed and produced apparel and accessories. IRB approval is in process for the East-African mother-daughter research. Plans for the programing are being finalized, with the program delivery expected Spring 2017.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Objectives: 1. To develop research projects with the ultimate goal of improving quality of life by focusing on sustainability and health. -Developed criteria for sustainable design best practices from designer perspective; currently testing the criteria through user groups, presentations and publications. -Data were analyzed and compared for creativity in apparel design education among students -Collected data from youth groups related to sustainable best practices by testing emotional response to handcrafts in USA and South Korea. In process of publishing paper in the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. -Received a grant for research and outreach with a focus on East African mother-daughter teams using nutrition, physical activity, and sewing co-designed culturally appropriate activewear. -Work continued on the book manuscript for CRC Press (due July 1, 2016), Human Body: A wearable product designer's guide. The book is co-authored with a medical doctor and features original illustrations demonstrating relationships of product and anatomical structures. 2. To investigate the domestic design and manufacture of apparel products related to changing consumer perceptions of sustainability and needs as related to health and well-being. -Completed interviews, analysis, and published a study of the opportunities, motivations, and challenges for Minnesota sewn product manufacturers. -Results will be shared with the companies that participated in the study. 3. To foster effective and responsible design and manufacturing processes by working closely with Minnesota apparel producers on individual projects to provide examples of product development and product manufacturing that are responsive to consumer lifestyle needs. -Presented work to a major Minnesota company on the design and development of protective coveralls and a custom sizing system for good fit and efficient size selection. Currently working on journal publications. 4. To investigate consumer perceptions of their needs related to apparel products and sustainability. -Collected data from user groups comparing age as a factor in sustainability patterns in their apparel currently in their wardrobes that they continue to wear, data were analyzed and a presentation developed. Presentation accepted for PCA/ACA conference in 2017. -Currently collecting data on the mature user and related sustainability patterns. -Work with 2 graduate students and a post doc on presenting and publishing their research. Three papers presented at the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference in this regard (see below). - Currently collecting data on the values and practices of consumers of locally-made apparel and accessories.

Publications

• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: DeLong, M. Casto, M., Lee, Y. and Min, S. (2016). Education for apparel sustainability from perspectives of design students from differing cultural contexts. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education,9 (3), 248-260.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: LaBat, K., Ryan, K. & Sanden-Will, S. (2016). Breast cancer survivors wearable product needs and wants: A challenge to designers. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, DOI:10.1080/17543266.2016.1250289
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lee, Y.K. & DeLong, M. (2016) Re-birth design analysis for developing sustainable fashion products. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40(3), 566-573.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lee, Y.K. and DeLong, M. (2016) Improving creative design skills-the effects of past experience on apparel design education- Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 40 (2), 97-4081.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2016 Citation: Lyu, S. & LaBat (2016).Effects of natural posture imbalance on posture deviation caused by load carriage. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics, 56, 115-123.

Progress 10/01/14 to 09/30/15

Outputs
Target Audience:Target audiences were 3M Corporation developing designs for protective coveralls and consumers of wearable products Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided?Presentations were made to industry on textiles incorporating factors of textile production and use of textiles in products that impact sustainability. A workshop was presented to the staff and executive board of the Industrial Fabrics Association International and presentation to attendees of the Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) Expo. IFAI is a trade association with members from all sectors of the industrial/technical textiles industry. How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest?A multi-step project with university colleagues from across the U.S. and Korea continued to explore key issues that researchers in apparel and textiles can address using their expertise. The initial step was a 3-day retreat lead by two of the researchers on this AES project. Results of that retreat were reported in a monograph edited by LaBat and a colleague at University of Missouri. Colleagues from several universities authored pieces in the monograph: U of Missouri, U of Arizona, U of California-Davis, U of Nebraska, Oregon State U., U of North Texas, Seattle Pacific U., Seoul National U., Iowa State U., Colorado St. U., San Francisco State U., U of Hawaii, and U of Rhode Island. Topics in the monograph included: imagining a future without our field, history of the textiles and apparel discipline, the academic core of the discipline, quality scholarship, professional ethics, and risk-taking as an essential strategy for innovation in the field. At the International Textile and Apparel Association Conference in 2014 LaBat and Bye directed a brain-storming session using "Art of Participatory Leadership" methods to further explore and define the monograph topics. As a result of that discussion grand challenges for research and teaching were identified: sustainability, social responsibility, health and well-being, shifts in demographics, and equality. Two of the grand challenges: sustainability and health and well-being were identified several years ago as the foci for this AES research project. The grand challenges were discussed with action plans developed and collaborative efforts defined at the 2015 International Textiles and Apparel Association Conference. What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals?Continue to collect and analyze data and publish research from projects outlined above.

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? A multi-year project funded by 3M Corporation, St. Paul, MN, to develop unique designs for protective coveralls was completed. Patent MRG Docket No. 110.04300101 Hybrid Coverall Sizing System was filed. The designs use 3M patented materials and have potential of offering improved fit and protection for industrial workers. Work continued on exploration of posture variables as factors in affecting health and well-being. Scan technology was used to quantify posture. Effects of carrying wearable products such as baby carriers, purses and back-packs were explored. Effects of carrying asymmetrical loads (one shoulder or the other) are particularly evident. Effects of load carriages are important an important area of study for every day carrying activities and also in military, fire protection and industry settings. A posture modifying shapewear product was developed and a patent filed (MRG Docket No. 110.04660160. Posture Improvement Shapewear Garment and systems). Early results indicate potential of this type of garment to prevent negative effects of load carriage. Project underway: Local production of apparel goods in Minnesota: An investigation of the opportunities and motivations for manufacturers and an examination of locally-made trends with consumers. Literature review completed. IRB approval secured. Researchers are currently collecting data (interviews) from MN companies that are producing their sewn products in MN. Initial interviews have been transcribed and analysis is being conducted. Project involving surveys and interviews with consumers about their needs related to sustainable apparel products--data are being analyzed and made ready for publication. A new project on wardrobe strategies for consumer lifestyle needs is in the planning stage with literature being reviewed and IRB application submitted. Following IRB approval, data will be collected in Spring semester. Student completed Ph.D. in 2015 with topic: categories of design for sustainability, definitions and applications of classic design.

Publications

• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2015 Citation: Bye, E. & Griffin, L. (2015). Testing a model for wearable product materials research. Fashion Design, Technology, and Education, 8(2), 139-150. Doi:10.1080/17543266.2015.1018959
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: DeLong, M., Heinemann, B. and Reiley, K.( 2014). Redefining, Redesigning Fashion: Designs For Sustainability. Fashion Practice. 6:1, 125-130
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2015 Citation: Min, S., DeLong, M., LaBat, K. (2015). Exploring flow in the apparel design process. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2015.1093179
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: Kim, D-E., LaBat, K., Bye, E., Sohn, M-H. & Ryan, K. (2014). A Study of Scan Garment Accuracy and Reliability. The Journal of the Textile Institute, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2014.949502
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2014 Citation: LaBat, K. & Kim, H-Y. (2014). Exploring the Relationships of Fashion and Health. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 32(3), 3-5.
• Type: Journal Articles Status: Published Year Published: 2015 Citation: Sohn, M. & Bye, E. (2015). Pregnancy and body image: Analysis of clothing functions of maternity wear. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 33(1), 64-78. doi:10.1177/0887302X14557809
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2014 Citation: DeLong, M. Casto, M.A. Heinemann, B. Reiley K. November 2014. Fashion Thinking: Design as Prototype and Sustainability. Fashion Thinking, International conference discussing Fashion in theory, History, Practice. Kolding, Denmark.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2014 Citation: LaBat, K. & Ryan, K. Methods and Challenges of Apparel Design and Medicine Collaborations KSCT/ITAA Conference, Charlotte, SC, November 2014.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2014 Citation: Lyu, S. & LaBat, K. Shapewear for Women as a Postural Improvement Garment. ITAA Conference, Charlotte, SC, November 12-16, 2014.
• Type: Conference Papers and Presentations Status: Accepted Year Published: 2015 Citation: Ha-Brookshire, J. & LaBat, K. (Coordinators). What does Textiles and Apparel Research and Education Look like in the 21st Century? ITAA Conference, Santa Fe, NM, November 4-6, 2015.

Progress 07/01/14 to 09/30/14

Outputs
Target Audience: Nothing Reported Changes/Problems: Nothing Reported What opportunities for training and professional development has the project provided? Nothing Reported How have the results been disseminated to communities of interest? Nothing Reported What do you plan to do during the next reporting period to accomplish the goals? Nothing Reported

Impacts
What was accomplished under these goals? Nothing to report.

Publications